Connecting Alarm to Central Door Locks

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by GtiNewby, Jan 5, 2004.

  1. GtiNewby New Member

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    Any Electrical Bods out there??

    I have bought a Falcon Alarm which has -ve total closure facility (locks doors and does up windows)and also -ve unlock output. I've spent all day on the car (without a manual) trying to find which cable to connect the negative lock and the negative unlock to. I've been concentrating near the drivers door where the cables come into the car, is this the right place to look?

    Somebody out there must know or have done this before.

    Help!
     
  2. Oli.Hall Forum Member

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    You will need to buy a 2 wire central locking solenoid from somewhere (10) and either a central locking relay (10) or two normal relays and fit electric central locking to the drivers door and have the alarm control this.

    This is because in the drivers door there is only a switch, not an actuator. If you do wire it directly to the pump it will lock/unlock all the doors except the drivers door.

    Oli.
     
  3. GtiNewby New Member

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    I thought I could get round this because if you lock the passenger door, the drivers door locks as well which indicated to me that both doors had actuators in. Only the drivers door has the window closure facility.
     
  4. Oli.Hall Forum Member

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    what car is it in? and is it electric central locking or vacuum type?
     
  5. GtiNewby New Member

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    1994 2.0 Gti 8V. It has a compressor in the boot.
     
  6. Oli.Hall Forum Member

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    You have three wires running to the front doors yes? One 12v and one each for lock and unlock that go to the pump.

    In the doors is a switch, when you lock the car, the positive feed is connected to the lock wire, this starts the pump until a certain pressure is reached when the pump stops. When you unlock the car, the positive feed is taken off the lock wire and fed down the unlock wire reversing the direction of the pump...

    The alarm only supplies a -ve pulse for about one second and you need 12v switched down the lock/unlock wires for about 5 seconds for the pump. Therefore you need a central locking interface which will extend the one second -ve pulse from the alarm into a permanent 12v +ve signal.

    This is why it is usually easier and cheaper to fit an extra solenoid in one of the doors as the interfaces are more expensive.

    Oli.
     
  7. StefanVW Forum Member

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    You don't need any extra bits, my mate has just fitted a Falcon alarm to his MK3 and you connect it to the wires on the pump in the boot.

    The alarm should have an option of selecting whether the pulse should be for 1 second or 3 seconds - you need it for 3 seconds. I'll have a look at his car and tell you which wires you need on the pump.

    EDIT: Which Falcon is it?
    Edited by: StefanVW
     
  8. GtiNewby New Member

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    Falcon Mk 3
     
  9. StefanVW Forum Member

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    should be similar to his.

    His is a EVO4 with remote start
     
  10. GtiNewby New Member

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    Someone needs to set up a website with all the wiring diagrams for each VW available!
     
  11. Hiren Forum Member

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    haynes manual has some pretty decent wiring diagrams for the
    central locking pump.

    Also, the way i did it,

    1. My Golf is a single point vacuum type system.
    2. i added an actuator on to the door so it controls the rod that is
    attached to the vacuum actuator.
    3. i picked up a cheap central locking control unit from maplin and
    hooked it up and voila central locking for 25 quid with yer alarm.

    I tried hooking it up to the compressor but even 3 seconds wasn't
    enough, it kept locking, then unlocking !.

    BTW if you have the haynes max power GOLF book, it has some
    GREAT pictures and diagrams on how to connect the soleniod
    actuator up, becuase it is VERY fidley trying to get it right.
     
  12. GtiNewby New Member

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    Don't worry people I've figured it out ...

    For those of you that are interested, My alarm gives out either a posative or Negative pulse for 1 second when you arm or disarm. Using the total closure circuit (when you turn and hold your key the doors lock and the windows come up or visa versa) I connected the posative supply lock feed to the GREY wire which is found from the loom under the drivers seal cover that goes to the compressor. I connected the posative supply Unlock wire to the GREEN wire. This enables the doors only, to lock or unlock with the alarm as the supply is too quick to kick in the windows. The alarm also has a NEGATIVE total closure output which lasts for six seconds. All I did with this was using a relay, I had a permanent posative feed to one side of the coil, the negative closure feed from the alarm went to the other side of the coil. The switch contacts were wired one side to permanent posative, the other side of the switch contact went to the GREY wire which had the other lock cable connected to it.

    Easy really! [:s]

    I hope that someone out there benefits from this.
     

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