had me and my dad torqued it up the other day to the value stated in the book, 90n/m it then said do half a turn, we got about 1/8 of a turn on it and could not shift the bugger anymore, will it be ok or do i need to try and give it some more? cheers john
Are you sure its 90nm ? If we are talking about a standard big block 8v then it should be 200nm oiled. Camshaft sprocket bolt should be 80nm maybe some confusion somewhere ? NB. Crank bolts is single use. Steve
Steve, These days, we don't even believe Bentley, let alone Haynes! Some people, on the forum, say that they have Genuine VW Manuals! But, they won't post up photos of the relevant data. Dave.
so what your saying is that it will take a stupid big setup to get the thing round the rest of the way so it ain't really worth it as it is done up past the torque anyway, cheers for the info john
How's the swap going? Sorry I didn't make it over today, hope those wheels stood up to your driveway.
hey jerry no worries bud the wheels had no problem with the driveway assault course old engine is out and stripped new one has a few more bits to put on and it can go in, small bolts on the lower pulley put up a fight but sorted that with me angle grinder. new cam belt etc is on. might have a visit from burni tomorow, martyn popped round today helped me out getting the webber ready and getting the choke cable in. good day all in all
Just the opposite John. What I'm saying is: it's quite easy to turn the bolt 180 deg (1/2 turn), if you lock the crank pulley. The only question is whether it should be an extra 90 deg, or 180 deg? All you have done, with the initial 90 Nm torque up, is set the bolt ready for the extra part turn. The load in the bolt from 90 Nm is quite low, compared with the load imparted by the extra part turn! Dave.
easy!? yeah right, me and my dad was doing it, the crank was locked, he was holding the engine still and was bouncing around on the end of a 30" breaker bar and it only moved about 1/8 of a turn, there was no way that was going any further than that, so i think i will leave it as is.
ok so engine is in the car, gearbox attached obviously, so how would you lock it so that you can apply the forced needed to swing the bugger the rest of the way?
You can lock the engine with some type of bar in the starter hole of the gearbox. Torques that I have seen are 8v says 150lb/ft, mk2 16v says 135 lb/ft and later mk3 says 65lb/ft plus 90deg.
Phew, you beat me to it there danster, I was just about to post those figures. <Ahem> Will you be filling your spot at the paintshop John?
Put a pry bar against one the lugs or bolt heads of the flywheel, then let this rest against the gearbox casing. Some one can hold it in place while another tightens the bolt. That's a pry bar, not a mars bar or snickers bar, they will not be as effective as the pry bar.
Yes, something like that. Be careful not to use a screwdriver because they can break their tips off, and you do not want any metal finding it's way into the bellhousing and clutch housing.
