hi guys....err was wondering if anybody could help out with some tips and advice as tomorrow i have to change the cylinder head cam belt and rocker and head gaskets on my 95 8v (agg) as yesterday the teeth on my cam belt decided to go...car lost power and as i tried to restart it it was sort of firing and i heard three massive bangs which logically suggests to me the pistons where smashing into the valves.and me being skint and a bit of a noob when it comes to repairs...has decided to do the job my self...
get yourself a haynes manual to start with ) but at the end of the day its not a hard job, 10 bolts and off the head comes
also are there any specific tools ill need or can i do it with a standards socket set? also...can i get away with just replacing the head gasket or will the rocker need doing as well? also throttle manifold?
id buy new gaskets for rocker, exhaust and inlet. for timing as i say, get a haynes it'll help no end! see my sig for dizzy timing: aggadydizzy1 & 2.pdf. you can do it without vag-com so long as you get the dizzy timed back up spot on to TDC though, if the timign is fine now it shouldnt be a problem to get it back how it was. only an issue if the dizzy is rotated which it shouldnt be as part of this swap. main thing you need is good set of allen bits with long/thin reach to get inlet off, plus spline tool for the head bolts
You'll need to get the head skimmed, replace any bent valves and grind them in. Really not a job if you don't know what you're doing!
i got a recon cylinder head for it so that aint gonna be the problem....main issue is gonna be the timing as the last cambelt i changed was on an escort with a cvh engine...however...like i said i am a bit of a noob and i dont know what the abbreviations mean so could you explain please ?
Spline bits are a 12 point tool. Imagine a 12 point socket but in reverse. Kind of like an Allen key bit, google spline bits and you'll see what I mean!
so i have found out how to time it correctly....still clueless on the abbreviation front oh....and the car is still stranded 4 miles away lol
tdc is the main one...though any you could help one would be great.....am going out to get started on it in a min....hopefully it will all go ok thou tbh im a bit nervous as ..like i said ...im not a mechanic
could you send me a link for the pdf file you mentioned here please? i tried searching for them and had no luck :/
tdc is top dead centre, i.e. engine lined up to all its timing marks. btdc is before top dead centre and is generally refered to when timing up the dizzy (but not on this engine, dizzy needs to be exactly TDC as well as rest of engine) https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B...iNjFhZjktNjM5Yy00MGJiLTgyODItZGM0NWViZTNlZTY1 https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B...5ZGVmY2ItZDUxOS00MmE3LThkMWMtZTM4NjU0NWQ2ZWM3
Tdc = top dead centre, the point you have to position your crank and cam to ensure they're correctly timed. The crank mark is through a hole in the top of the gearbox bell housing, it's a mark on the flywheel that lines up with a notch on the gearbox casing. The cam is easy to see, it's a mark on the cam pulley that lines up with a point on the head. I'm sure there's a sticky thread in the engine section that'll guide you through the timing procedure. As long as you turn the engine over twice by hand once your finished you won't have any problems.
While both answers to "top dead centre" are kinda right the exact meaning is a piston's position in the cylinder.. That's to say top dead centre is the point at which the piston is at its maximum upwards travel, and just about to begin its downward stroke. That might sound a bit pedantic, but it'll help if your timing marks are not very clear. If that's the case, then if you get No.1 piston to TDC, then your set. BTDC (as mentioned) is "before top dead centre"; and is a per-determined point at which injection/ignition occurs. Logic will tell you that BDC and BBDC are therefore "bottom dead centre" and "before bottom dead centre", but you'll rarely see them where timing is involved.
Why? if the vaves bent yes but if the head let go after the belt but a check will be ok a small sand on head machine might be ok. take it to a head shop and tey will tell you. i put a 2 litre engine in my mates golf a few weeks ago. got the whole car for 80 quid as he said he did head gasket change and still wouldnt run. after looking at bolts that were fare from tight lol i repalced the gasket and bolts and its a mad machine !!!! If you have head contact yes thats different but heads are pennied on these and do it yourself lol hell i would even talk you throughit its that simple!!
oh and put the whole engine into his car as the doner was crap. best 80 quid ever lol as he paid me loads and i got the car for spares
trouble is you cant really just put the piston at the top and expect it to be exactly TDC reason is the piston sits at the top of the cylinder for a few degrees which is called the 'dwell angle' to get it exactly right you need to measure this and divide by two if you want to get really pedantic best bet is use the flywheel punch mark, it will be the most accurrate mark to use. the crank pulley mark can sometimes be wrong as the outer part can slip round if the rubber is worn
