[DIY]1.8 8v to 1.8 16v G60

Discussion in '16-valve' started by m3ltd0wn, Aug 11, 2012.

  1. m3ltd0wn New Member

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    Apr 29, 2010
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    In the pages below I'll present you the how to convert an 8v motor to a 16v g60 power plant.
    Short history of the car :

    1988 1.8 8v golf gt, 90bhp, GX engine code, after some bad experiences with CIS-E, i've swapped a 2.0 2E 8v motor, lots of low down grunt, after a while digifant begun to behave, sick of it I've ordered a megasquirt 2 v3 from DIYAutotune, meanwhile I've swapped the 2E with an AGG, now with megasquirt controlling the fueling and spark, the motor pulled hard and never had a problem, BUT where I live it is forbidden by law to swap motors from newer models without omologation and dynamic tests which cost more that the car itself... so sick of those regulations, I took my old motor block, stripped it from all the internals and made the plans for converting it to 16vG60 and here it goes:

    parts needed for the conversion:

    from 16v:
    16v cylinder head
    16v PL scirocco intake
    16v pistons and rods
    16v crankshaft
    16v crankshaft pulley
    16v intermediate shaft and pulley
    16v distributor cap
    16v oil pump
    16v oil cooler
    16v timing belt and tensioner
    16v ABF exhaust manifold and downpipe

    from G60:
    G60 compressor
    G60 compressor brackets (all)
    G60 throttle body
    G60 oil feed and return lines
    G60 accessories pulley (from crankshaft)
    G60 pulley from the water pump
    G60 belt tensioner (optional)
    G60 intercooler or a custom FMIC
    G60 radiator and water hoses from it
    G60 ECM (if you want to keep it but you'll need a custom chip for 16vG60)
    G60 injectors and injector cups

    from 8v:
    2x timing belt tensioners

    what needs fabrication:
    injector bungs to fit 1.8T fuel rail
    alternator brackets (there are couple of possibilities)
    compressor outlet if you can't find the RSR or VWMS one.

    recommended:
    stand alone engine management
    new bearings and piston rings
    silicone hoses

    and now the pictures
    16v exhaust manifold:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    this will be modified later...

    16v KR forged crankshaft:
    [​IMG]

    16v KR MAHLE pistons and rods:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    16v PL scirocco intake manifold:
    [​IMG]

    16v KR cylinder head with scirocco intake manifold and G60 throttlebody:
    [​IMG]

    16v distributor cap:
    [​IMG]

    1.8T 20v fuel rail and G60 268cc injectors and injector cups:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    the G60 crankshaft accessories pulley needs to be thinned 6mm so it will align with the rest of pulleys:
    [​IMG]

    the 1.8 8v GX motor block:
    [​IMG]

    16v ABF oil pump:
    [​IMG]

    lightened flywheel vs stock:
    [​IMG]

    the G60, rebuilt, and boost return block off plate:
    [​IMG]

    and now the assembly ...

    GX motor with 16v internals:
    [​IMG]
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    some cleanup and painting for the motor and gearbox:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    g60 compressor brackets and waterpump:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    notice the rear bracket from the G60, it was modified so i can put a fitting and a hose so I can vent carter gasses.

    the engine block with some of the brackets:
    [​IMG]

    compressor fitted:
    [​IMG]

    compressor outlet:
    [​IMG]
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    Last edited: Aug 11, 2012
  2. m3ltd0wn New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2010
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    reply

    some more test fitting:
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]

    you'll need to drill the block so you can fit the oil return line, the hole is threaded so the line fits perfectly:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    mounted the flywheel:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    after the accessories pulley was thinned 6mm:
    [​IMG]

    then some planning for the serpentine belt routing:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    some tests again to see that all things fit:
    [​IMG]

    the silicone hoses and some tests again, this time was to be sure the FMIC route was ok:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    i've used a 135 degrees U hose from the outlet of the G60:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    then the route from the outlet of the FMIC to the throttlebody:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    a view at the engine from the front:
    [​IMG]

    i had to change the hoses a little, the space between the radiator and the battery was small and it was hard to fit the intake tubes, so i had to make some changes:
    [​IMG]

    routing the tubes to the inlet of the FMIC, some zipties to hold the pipes while i plan the routing:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    and here is the final version of the routing for the intake system:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    swapped the orriginal radiator fan with a GM one, the GM one has a little motor so the fan won't hit the hoses:
    [​IMG]
    clereance:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    tightening the cylinder head, and then timing the engine:
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2012
  3. m3ltd0wn New Member

    Joined:
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    reply

    again some clereance problems, this time the throttlebody would hit the brake fluid reservoir:
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]

    and...solved by cutting out that nipple and plug the hole:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    fitted the G60 injector cups:
    [​IMG]

    after that I've finalized the intake system:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    then fitted all the bits and pieces, cables, water hoses..etc:
    [​IMG]

    the exhaust system:
    i had to cut the flanges because the 2.0 16v exhaust manifold and downpipe are longer than those on 1.8 16v. after some measurements i cut those flanges and welded what was left from the manifold to the downpipe:
    [​IMG]

    and some tests:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    and the new pipes :p :
    [​IMG]

    perfect fit and lots of cleareance between the pipes and the chassis:
    [​IMG]

    an the rest of the exhaust: 63.5mm diameter, stainless steel, no Kat:
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2012
  4. m3ltd0wn New Member

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    and now the hardest part...the alternator bracket, I didn't have any measurements for this, so, the material from which it was made was a 5mm thick stainless steel sheet, and the results:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    then the fitting on the engine:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    and some tests:
    [​IMG]

    i've used the alternator bracket from the 8v, cut it down and then welded to the bracket I've made, so I can fit the alternator:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    and some more welding for the new bracket, so I can secure the alternator in place:
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]

    test fit again:
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
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    the bracket and the alternator, they are perfect:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    serpentine belt routing whoes, again!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    i've used the two rollers from the G60 routing, but later I've changed the upper one with a 8v timing belt tensioner, because the airbox slipped from it's place and touched the belt and pushed it from the roller, so now, if that happens again, the belt won't be pushed away.

    then comes the fueling system, I had to do some measurements for the injectors so i can make the injector bungs:
    [​IMG]

    and the injector bungs:
    [​IMG]
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    the adjustable FPR, at 4bar the 268cc injectors will flow 305cc, enough for 220hp :)
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2012
  5. m3ltd0wn New Member

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    reply

    as a note the serpentine belt for this kind of routing (2x 8v timing belt tensioners and one G60 roller) is 6pk2110, it is a tight fit, but the 6pk2128 was a little big and i feared it will slip.

    the fuel rail testing and modding
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    carter gasses venting and recirculation through the compressor and ISV routing ( recirculation of carter gasses through the compressor ensures a proper apex lubrication, also I have a PTFE lube spray and from time to time I'm lubricating the compressor):
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    and the final product:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    and the first start !!
    [video=youtube;vb1JoDx4v8o]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vb1JoDx4v8o[/video]

    knowledge belongs to the people! [:D]
     
    milesmk2 likes this.
  6. milesmk2 Forum Member

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    Can you use any 1.8t fuel rail or does it have to be from a specific engine code?
     
  7. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    Great thread. Can this be made a sticky? Mods.
     
  8. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Forum Addict

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    Sorted :thumbup:

    Great thread too :thumbup:
     
  9. Riley

    Riley Forum Addict

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    Great job, nice and tidy work.:thumbup: Note that on a RHD Corrado, the alternator will have to sit at the front, a MK3 alternator can be made to work with a little bracketry too.

    Neil.
     
  10. m3ltd0wn New Member

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    in the pictures above I've used the 1.8T fuel rail from an AUDI, and I needed to weld new mounts so I can fix it to the intake manifold, later I put a 1.8T rail from a VW GTi, also I've welded new mounts on it.
     
  11. m3ltd0wn New Member

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    haven't updated the thread in a while but here it goes:
    replaced some of the OEM pvc intake tubes with ones made of 60mm stainless steel, they are custom made for my configuration, I'm using a FMIC.
    pvc:
    [​IMG]
    FMIC to intake manifold stainless steel tube:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    and G60 to FMIC stainless steel tube:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    a few pictures with the new mods (before and after):
    [​IMG]
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    after a couple of months I found the G60 outlet from VW MS, they are quite rare in my country so it was a nice find, i needed it because my fabricated outled was leaking boost because it didn't had any o-ring to seal perfectly.
    old outlet:
    [​IMG]
    the VW MS part and a 90 degree silicon hose:
    [​IMG]
    after some runs with the car I've seen lots of oil in the intake tubes, the G60 was in great shape and it didn't have any leaks the only cause of this was the carter gases (don't know why I have some blow-by even if the piston rings are new), I had the rear G60 mount modified so I can vent the engine block and from there a hose to the G60 to keep it lubed as per manual, but this proved not to be ok, and I bought an oil cap from a mk4 golf 2.0 8v:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    so I can vent the cylinder head, from it a hose now runs to the strut bar, and from the strut bar another hose runs to the windshield water reservoir (ghetto catch can), it is not tidy, and the blow-by still exists, if i drive the car until 4000rpm is all good, but if i rev it to 7500 i can see lots of oil build up in the tank, I still need to see what causes this :) any suggestion is much appreciated.
    [​IMG]
    and the last but not least I've changed the accessory pulley from the crankshaft from a modified 8v pulley to a TDI pulley, the TDI pulley is a little bigger and puts the G60 to engine ratio to 2.1:1 if i remeber correctly :)

    cheers
     

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