I've noticed that the chain tensioner on the early dizzy engine is bigger, and looks alot similar to uprated tensioners, it's also single chain. problem I've encountered is the tensioner bolts are both different lenghts, the original bolt now seems too long and the one from the donor engine seems too short, but from what I could see the chain covers were both identical apart from the hole were the dizzy was, was wondering if anyone else had encounters a similar problem before we drop the gearbox an swap everything, thanks
Dizzy to coilpack? Chain? It appears you are describing the difference between the early 8v timing belt tensioner and the later type. The early type has a large hex on it allowing it to be turned to tension the belt with a spanner. The later type has two small holes for a special tool to turn and tension the belt. Sounds like you have got a new type tensioner and are trying to fit it on an old type longer stud. Edit: got to stop drinking during the day!
That's me and mushy had one now rubjonny! You better watch out as they come in groups of 3. In fact, come to think of it, what was the steering boot error all about? OP, I know nothing of the maritime anchor of which you speak, so ignore my post.
hehe I do it all the time, am the worlds worst skim reader. plus a lot of the time stuff I think in my brain gets lost in translation on the way to my fingers when it gets typed out and I end up typin a load o garbage case in point rack boot error OP, do you know the years of the 2 engines in question? I might be able to etka some kind of solution for you if so
There both obd1, but one is a realy early one, basically tryin to make the best of both, when the engine comes outta the car n the gearbox comes off it will probly all become aparent, would be nice for it to not have to come out n apart, but it's not the end of the world, can put new chains n clutch in while were at it
It's odd when it's all infront of you, there's about 10mm difference in tensioner bolt lenghts, I'll drop the gearbox and put fresh chains etc, was hopin someones could shed alitle light, good to know exactly what your walkin into
might be worth an ask on mk2vr6.com, more experts on there I'd think. its odd you have different bolt lengths etc as etka is usually pretty good at showing the differences over the years. never mind!
Is the coilpack vr6 better than ignition distributor vr6?Is it worth the effort ?Any gain?If not why don't stick to the original ignition distributor.
Because the distributor loom is badly damage and the lad who's car it is has been struggling to find a replacement, the engine it's self ran lovely, as I said earlier, simply trying to make the best of both we have available.
It is only 3 wires for the camsensor/hall on these. You are going through a lot of hassle to convert to a M2.9 system for ZERO improvement.
So from what I gather your saying you could simply alter a obd1 coilpack loom to work with a obd1 distributor engine? I'm simply pickin up the peices from were his royal airforce airplane electrician friend left off. His car been of the road quite awhile now. wiring isn't a strong point of mine, I'm much more comfortable unbolting and bolting things back up.
"OBD1"...<shakes head and does not even bother [:^(]> I do not speak in "code" for nothing. Your engine runs on a Bosch M2.7 the later 'coilpack' engine runs on a M2.9 system. Both will run the engine the same even though there are small improvements in ECU control. You said your loom is damaged for the Dizzy. I said there are just 3 wires that operate the camsensor in the Dizzy. If your troubleshooting was right, My piont was just repair the damage to the 3 wires rather than convert to another system. Up to you really.
Thanks for that toyotec, that's good to know. unfortunatley the original loom is nowere to be seen, I've just spoke to the lad and he tells me the RAF lad might have messed up this other loom they got hold of aswel, I've no idea what he's done or why until I speak to him, so he's quite possibly back to square one. Half wish I never said ied help em now.
The tensioners are the same. You need to fill it up with oil to get the length and tension on it before you fit it. with no oil in it, its compressed=no tension. Just take the end off ( it comes apart ) fill the tensioner with engine oil job done. Then fit it tighten it up and it will take the slack off the chain. Swopping from dizzy to coilpack is easy. just wiring loom, coilpack upper chain cover, with cam position sensor, coilpack inlet cam as the dizzy inlet cam is too long as it fits into the dizzy ( or you can cut the locators off ) and a coilpack. There is no performance gain from obd1 dizzy to obd1 coilpack. However the coilpack makes the engine more responsive Ive found as the spark is direct.
Develski your an absolute diamond, I did think it was that simple, I swapped everything over a few weeks ago but was very confused about the differences in tensioner but I wasn't aware it was full of oil, makes a hell of a lot of sense to be tho, all the info over the last few messages is much appreciated, I'm merely a plasterer with a bag of spanners. I need to get myself a bentley manual.
Develski your an absolute diamond, I did think it was that simple, I swapped everything over a few weeks ago but was very confused about the differences in tensioner but I wasn't aware it was full of oil, makes a hell of a lot of sense to be tho, all the info over the last few messages is much appreciated, I'm merely a plasterer with a bag of spanners. I need to get myself a bentley manual.
