I've got a 2.0 16v to go in my golf on tues, last thing i think i'm missing is the crank pulley for the cambelt, if i can get hold of one - do i NEED a new bolt? and how likely is failure with an old one if used for a week or so? What are the bolts meant to be torqued to? Cheers
Bentley recon: Lubricated. 6-sided bolt and washer = 180 Nm. Whatever 6-sided means? Hex Head bolt and washer = 150 Nm 12-sided bolt with collar (no washer) = 90 Nm + 1/2 turn Why not buy a new bolt? If it's dry, with blue locking patch, do not lubricate. Audi 90 20v is 350 Nm!
I've found this bolt from my old 1300 engine, according to VAGCAT the bolt needs to be m14x1.5x47 - which this one seems to measure. It's 6 not 12 sided, how do i tell if it's a stretch bolt, heres a picture, (it doesn't 'appear' to be?) If it's ok to re-use, which torque setting from above should i use, and a bit of threadlock?
50 mile round trip later, i got my 12 sided one to compare.. turns out i need the 33mm (bottom) length rather than 47mm. Is the 12 sided one with collar 100% a stretch bolt and not too be re-used, how about for a couple of days?
You are right, i'll get one ordered... Loads more to crack on with... anyoen know if VW open tomorrow?
Not in Ieland. Anyway, it will take the Irish dealers six months to get the part. They will charge you 3 times the UK price. And, it will be the wrong part.
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=66 http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211337
Well today i ammepted fitting it fo rthe second time... 90NM on my torque wrench, then managed about 30deg extra (breaker bar is about 2 feet long, and i weight 20stone) Is this enough? I couldn't get it anymore in, its got loctite on it, so i think i'm going to have to risk it.. is there any better techinque?
Take a look at this thread, post#58. http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=212396 As noted in this post, these flywheel bolts are so short they won't stretch much. Note the use of MSo2 under the head. The crank bolts don't look very long either. Later today, or tomorrow I will try to experiment on the old PB, to see if it is feasible to do the extra 1/2 turn. I have not done this job since the crank bolt on the Audi 90, 350Nm. I had to use a jig I welded up out of rolled steel angle. I borrowed a big 3/4" sq drive torque wrench from work, about 4 feet long.
As they say in darts "180" I reckon half the issues arising from these bolts are caused by folk do a timing belt by undoing this bolt with an air gun when they should leave it be and take out the 4 allen bolts instead. I have seen a lot of damaged pulleys with the keyways squashed or turned slightly. I suspect this is when the folk just put the timing belt gear and crank pulley on as one assembly and fire up the air gun to do it up with making sure it was seated correctly. Has major implications on the diesels when they fail too and the later cranks have a different keyway style to reduce problems.
The stretch bolt (collared) must be oiled in later engines before torqueing or you get a false reading due to thread friction.
Under head friction is covered below. ASP used. Also, see link on post #13 for more details of similar application on flywheel bolts!
Thanks very much for that dave, seems i'm either being a pussy, or getting a lot of friction. Mine is the 12 point collared bolt. Looks like i'll have to remove it and start again, it should be fine since i don't think i got into the stretching phase. Is copper grease ok as ASP? And am i meant to be loctiting or just oiling the threads? Did you use 242 or 243?
Dose not matter that it is the 12 point. Same rules apply. Somewhere else, maybe in the link I posted, I showed what was meant by oiled threads. You must clean the threads of all oil or grease. As on CGTI Loctite CGTI posts. Loctite will not work on oily surfaces. You may only be able to get 243, which is the right stuff. The 242 I've had for years. I bought the 243 in Halfords when I was experimenting for Loctite posts. Firstly have you checked the length of the 12 point bolt to make sure that it is not too long and bottoms out in the crank before it can tighten any more? I understand that you may worry about friction differences on the hex as opposed to the 12 point.. The hex bolt and washer has no less friction between 'under the bolt head' and the 'washer face', than the 12 point straight onto the pulley. The hex bolt is washered under the head just the same. One of the big differences may be that the 12 point is shorter than the hex, by the thickness of the washer. ie, about the 37.5mm I noted. The washer was about 7mm thick. So, the amount of stretchable bolt shank is shorter by 7mm. Harder to stretch. But, I could have turned my bolt further still. Thing is, I had the 3/4 sq drive on it, no flexing of the bar, and the pulley locked solid agaist the wishbone, with the engine jacked up solid. As, I pressed, everything was rigid and the bolt turned easily. I used my left foot on the bar. Underhead lube should be fine with Copper Slip, or Moly Grease, or CV joint graphite grease. ASP is expensive, but I've had that tube about 20 years. Again read what I wrote on the link. Measure the length of bolt and the depth into the crank from the mounting face where the 12 point washer face sits on the pulley. Please come back to me if still not sure. If you are still worried, I will check parts lists and see if bolt lengths are quoted. Best of luck, Dave
I must admit I did mine recently (engine out) and it takes a lot of effort to get an extra 90 degrees once torqued. A big bar and my 14 stone on it. In the car I sympathise as any movement at all on mounts etc will lose torque when tightening. The engine needs to be rigid and you need enough room to swing a big bar. I still say dont use threadlock which is not a lubricant, use oil as specified as it is designed to allow the bolt threads to slide as required while stretching so as to spread the load evenly around the threads surface area. The greater the area the better the grip. Be careful if its on axle stands etc the force required is enough to pull it off if you`re not careful. I had to make a flywheel lock and its a good job my engine stand is rated at 500kg!
