Long story sort but due to family health problems and being on our governments "next to useless" benefit I have sold a property and i'am cashed up to get back into a few projects again. My Corrado has recieved some love recently with new A arm bushes and rear shocks and work to sort improved gear shifting,plus a big improvement in ICE. My 1992 low mileage mk3 2 litre (auto ) has been sitting on axle stands begging for a manual conversion and a cure for the oil consumption issue for some time. Valve guide seals are toast....what is it with these motors,all my mk2's never had this issue with way more miles under the wheels . Have been stocking up parts for the last year or so,have gearbox,new clutch,pedal box, etc,just keen on getting a bit more go from it,was thinking on fitting Neuspeed 260 cam (which I have) a bit of inlet and exhaust port matching and a suitable cam chip. Any wise sensible answers would be a great help to get the best from this motor without exceeding its original cost which wasnt much lol.
Further questions,will the engine mounts from the auto be ok with the manual box,my research indicated they are a differant part?,not sure why? Do I need to do any thing with the wiring for the auto lever lock/out switch,cant remember if the switch is normally open or closed type? Will the reverse lights still work,seem to remember theres an issue with that also? Any help would be appreciated,thanks.
the auto box sits slightly differently in the bay so swap the brackets for mk3 manual ones from an engien with same box so say 020 you want 1.8-2.0 8v (not tdi) if 02a/j then you want mk3 abf or tdi. the mounts themselves are the same but you may as well buy new ones while its apart. you'll have a bit of wiring to do on plug F, the starter trigger and reverse light wires are frigged with on an auto so you'll need to convert them to manual setup but thats no big deal: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775 the wiring thats associated with the shifter will all be binned off, any relays etc can go then its just the 3 wires above go straight to where they need to for the manual. the starter wire may have a 2 pin plug inline with it, if so its just a case of fit the jumper from a manual car to rejoin the 2 ends once the plug is disconnected
Thanks ,the mounts I had and the gearbox conversion parts included the right gearbox mount and shifter parts,all bolted up fine. I have the 3 pin plug that goes the speedo pickup already in the engine control loom,so will my speedo work with the manual pickup I have fitted? Can I just bridge 4 of the 6 pins on the old autotrans plug to bypass the auto shifter start lockout? I am running a manual starter with mk3 auto soleniod if thats any help......cause I think I need it
yeah if you have a 3 pin speedo sender in your box just plug it in and you should be good to go, worst case if not then you need 1 wire from sender to G1/11 and an ign live and earth to sort it. pretty sure mk3 auto sends speed signal same as manual though! for the auto lockout as i say look at plug F, you'll probably find there is a 2 pin plug inline with the chunky red/black. if so, fit a manual mk3 golf jumper plug to this and that it done. then if you want reverse lights you need to run the thinner red/black and blue/black wires on plug F to the 2 pin switch on the gearbox
Progress if not slow....,head removed and found not only were the valve guides seals gone but I has a small coolant leak @ the rear of the head,this a the norm on japan import cars that come to our country because coolant is never changed and the head gasket rots away. Also noted one exhaust manifold gasket was on round the wrong way,so someone has been there before??,bores are good but a fair amount of carbon build up which isn't surprising considering the smoke on start-up and idle. Match ported the exhaust ports and manifold,way out of line but the inlet side was much better and required no work unlike my mk2 RV head. Shot the head off to my usual engine guru's and they did a 3 angle valve job and a light surface skim to clean up the head,nice job and fully assembled for around 150 pounds (your money). As mentioned have Neuspeed 260 and TT cam chip fitted in ecu so should go ok.
Back to the wiring,traced down the #14 white plug in my parts car and the wires correspond with your info rubjonny,the chances of me finding the factory manual jumper plug are up there with the search for the holy grail as a very high percentage of the cars wrecked in my area are auto's. Can I jumper @ the plug end or the pins for the relay to achieve the same result?,if so which wires? to just get the car running @ this stage,thanks again
Engine back together had b#gger of a time sorting out TDC to refit cambelt,the original crank pulley was toast,cracked rubber in the harmonic balancer,took the one off the parts car and it was excellent but NO tdc with #1 piston @ spot on the mark on the flywheel,remember an old thread on here how they can move of alignment and thats what had happened,around 30 degrees out. Bolted the pullies together and transposed the TDC mark with a rectangular file and checked back on the crank ...perfect,will be on the hunt for a replacement in the meanwhile. Spent a lot of time rewrapping the wiring looms because some clown had waterblasted the enginebay and ruined most of it ,mind you they are poorly done to start with. Hope to have it running soon when I can sort the wiring ....not much luck so far
more hassles,have studied RJ's diagrams which are very good ,but I have have some conflicts with wire colours on plug ''F''and have no starter lockout relay (#14). My car is a very early mk3 (92my) so i'am thinking that why things are a bit differant,it is CE2 no question,what I have also is very few relays on top of the main fuseboard and not a lot on there also,those are all accounted for. There are only 2 relays piggybacked on top of the fuseboard...........HELP please Santa
there are 3 wires to worry about on F, pins 1, 6 and 7. Pin 1 has a chunky red/black wire which needs to go straight to the starter motor, if you check your loom it may have a 2 pin plug inline with the wire. if it does, fit a manual MK3 jumper block and job done if not its just a case of find the end of the wire that goes off into the engien bay, and join it to the pin on the fusebox. 6 and 7 are the reverse switch wires, if you want the reverse lights to work you need to run those to the 2 pin switch on the gearbox, job jobbed
My pin #1 on plug F is a large red one ,on that black chunky 2 pin conector there is also a fine red/black wire which appears to head back to the enginebay,would that need to be powered as I think that maybe goes to the ecu?????. So in effect I'am completely bypassing the stater relay (150) ? Have found the wire thru to the starter,red @ the starter plug going to red/black on the chunky black 2 pin connector above the fusebox, car is now cranking @ key but little else??? Many thanks Dean.
yeah the thin red/black is probably to the ecu, as i say if you pop a mk3 manual jumper blocvk into the 2 pin plug you'll be sorted that side is the fuel pump running? if not look at G1 next for a 2 pin plug inline with the blue/yellow to g1/3. if theres another plug here then this must be another lockout from the shifter relay, it would make sense to kill the fuel pump as well. same as above, manual mk3 jumper plug popped in will sort that. An alternative with the 2 above is if there is enough slack on the wire you can pop the engine bay side out of the 2 pin plug and the plug wire from fusebox plug then pop the engine bay wire straight to the fusebox plug. I do this on all the looms I have in for conversion to reduce clutter
Thanks RJ ,a belated merry xmas and new year,got the car running just before xmas,then went for a summer R&R break,it was more about wire colours that screwed me up,once tested and traced made a large wire jumper on the big fat black plug and it fired straight away. Ran the cam in and had a testdrive and it runs well,very fast reving (mk2 flywheel) and handy power increase with the cam. Have tryed to get electric (sh#t)windows going and have given up after splicing in new pieces for the broken ones @ the pillar plugs......manual winders from your country on ther way,thank god. Started on fitting the Mk4 gti Recaro's today,bit of a mish because of crap info on the net,once sorted much easier than I thought when I made my brain work. Will report on further progress,cheers.
Car is now legal and on the road so happy camper,few minor bugs to sort but little worry about....except. Ran the wiring from the gearbox reverse switch to under the dash to hook up to the "F" plug wires 6 + 7,scanned the fusebox fuse setup and noticed the reverse light fuse blown,fitted new one and that popped,can't find out why?????. The chip I got made was DOA so the supplier is sending a new one ,funny as this is a first for me. Decided to go to mk4 gti rims as a mate has heaps in his wrecking yard but need to go to 205/50/16 tyres to get the rolling diameter right,they fill the archs better as I can't lower the car much as my entry road is very third world.
does it still do it with the reverse switch unplugged? it must be shorted to ground somewhere as even if the wires shorted together it woudl be fine as this woudl just trigger the reverse lights... fuse 14 is also linked to D/9 and D/11 so check whats plugged into those pins
Thanks Johnny,no its a dead short and I can't understand why,will get the tester out and report back,cheers Dean.
Testing the wire came out with little results and then got sidetracked on a strange noise rh front of car ,sounded like a wheel bearing as there appeared to be a change in tone when cornering,changed out the bearing and carrier for a good used one......some improvement but not fixed. Checked the rear wheel bearing and found some wear and pitting on the outer,as I didn't have a new set of bearing I fitted a good used one from my collection and the noise went away spinning the wheel with the caliper off,all good ???? Test drove again and a bit less noise again.....still not really right and a noticeable noise in the car @ highway speed and slowing to a stop. Now i'am thinking the worse of the used 020 I fitted,didn't know its history,but when I did an oil change after doing all the seals and trust bearing the oil was very clean and still a great colour. The follow questions come to mind; Could the drive shaft on that side make noise in a straight line (never had that before) ?, Box shifts nice and no diff noise,could the rh side output bearing be gone ?, Do I move around to the otherside bearing and check them? Kinda getting to hate this car now so any help would be nice,everything I've ever on Golfs has usually provided an answer for a problem but this one .......
does it sound worse cornering one way rather than another? for the box give the flanges a wiggle and rotate em back n forth. there shouldnt be any wiggle in your flanges and not much to no backlash when you rotate the flanges
thanks mate ,got back on to it today,felt like a clown cause its the lh side thats toast,the bearing in the carrier is very worn,about 3-4mm play with the wheel on,removed off the car it spins really roughly,off to my mates yard tommorrow for a good used one. John,I changed the output shaft seals cause there was some leakage and no movement noticed after reassembly,so I now think the box is fine,the noise was in a straight line not like a bad cv under cornering,have had that with mk2's so schooled up on that. To be honest it was very loud,and the funny thing is the noise was centred on the rh side ,couldn't be more wrong on that one. By the way can't post pics on here,do you know why??,would like to share a bit.
