Hi Chaps. I am doing an engine conversion on my MK2 GTi. Currently the running gear is a 1.9 TSR lump digifant (PB) engine with 8V box and G60 hubs etc.... I'm sure you have herd this all before so sorry if you have. I have looked around and seems a decent second hand 2L 16V costs more than a VR6 lump? Doesn't make sense to me. Have any of you found the handling alot heavier with a VR6 fitted? Also have any of you fitted a 16V mk2 box onto a VR6 lump? I guess the G60 is a better option. I would rather keep rod change than cable and keep my exisiting clocks and stay four stud. I guess I might have to uprate my fuel pump if fitting a VR6 and probably best to get a VR6 lump that has a auto box fitted as it will be less ragged and the rad and subframe!! My only issues is the wiring loom. My MK2 is the late big bumper model on a H plate. Have any of you a detailed wiring loom to help me on my way? Do I take a feed off my coil pack for the revv counter on my old clocks or stick with the MK3 clocks? Any advice would be great. Thanks Chris
The VR6 block is different from the 4 cylinder engine where the gearbox bolts on. This means you have to use the VR gearbox.
Oh.... that's a bummer so I will have to go cable change then if I use a VR6 lump and get a passat peddle box!! Can I use adapt the VR6 gearbox to fit a speedo cable too? I'll rather keep the mk2 dash purely for looks.
Pretty sure you can convert the VR 02A box to run the mk2 speedo cable. You can also get the Seat cable change conversion for the 02A clutch so it may not be necessary to convert to hydraulic clutch pedal box. Cable gear change will still need done though. I have no further knowledge on fitting an anchor.
Ok cheers danster. I think I'll stick with a 2L 16V and cam it, mainly due to the weight at the front. I want to be able to thrash the beast hard around round abouts My friend who has a breakers in swanly has given me a mk2 16V box. I guess I could use a mk2 8v box but the fifth gear would be a different ratio.
i have just done a vr conversion and its good around roundabouts and they are real easy to do and cheap i did the whole coversion for 900 and im still getting money back from my old parts so it would have cost me around 400 when i sold my engine
Cool. It looks like I may have to put a VR in my MK2 as they seem more cheaper than a 2L 16V ABF lump. I need to do alot of reading in HOW TO fit and install the engine, wiring look etc... Going to sell my 8V block and Newman cam over xmas once I get my MK2 GTi back from the bodyshop. Has anyone fitting a VR6 using an auto box? I think I'll be better off get an auto as the engine will be less ragged. I guess it's a case of just getting a VR6 manual gearbox. Is the wiring loom or dash different in a VR6 Auto?[:s Has anyone got a VR6 engine conversion or 2L 16V abf for sale?
my mate who got me to do mine did that got an auto and sure he had to change the flywheel and clutch, but if you go on mk2vr6.com there is everything you need to know on there and everyone is friendly and will answer any questions you got, i did about 4 months of research aswell as collecting parts and it took me a week to do aswell as doing my full time job so there pretty straight forward hope that helps
change fly + clutch for a manual one, change ecu for manual too maybe? loom has its differences but can be adapted with minimal fuss. if you want i can do you an engine conversion loom, 1 chap on here using a CE1 mk2 vr6 conversion loom which i changed from auto to manual
Whats the Best Vr engine to go for? Has anyone got a wiring daigram that will make my life easier conecting the wiring from the VR engine to the fuse box under the dash etc... Did you you change the fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel tank and sender? I want to be able to keep my original clocks and for the MFA to work too. Is this a hard thing to do or stick with the MK3 clocks? I like all things to work. Cheers
2.9 technically as its most power, apart from that just find a good one. later mk3 engines supposed to run a little better often called 'obd2' even though they arnt obd1/2 really. can run any basic vr block on any management, so even if get early 2.8 or 2.9 can use later mk3 2.8 management on it. just a case of swapping the later sensors over! k-jet mk2 fuel pump would be good enough but vr6 pump in mk3 tank will work with mk2 clocks. mfa will work the same way, just need to find oil temp sensor and a vac feed. mpg prob wont read quite right due to it bein a 6 pot tho
Cool ideally I still want to stick a ABF lump into it so I can use my newly rebuilt 16V gearbox and new clutch. I think a ABF 16V will be enough power for me. My Nissan Primera GT which has a 2L 16V lump produces just over 150 bhp and keeps up with most cars no problems and gives good MPG around 33. Will see what pops upon ebay or local adds. I have seen SEAT do a 16V 2L that might be an option. I'll probably change my mind by tomorrow and want to fit a VR in. Decisions, decisions
