Erratic Revs, Spluttering and cut out. Mk2 1.6 1984 Golf EZ

I was thinking that last night when I read through the guide on your manual link. I'm assuming from what I read it attaches to the metal adapter plate between the carb and the rubber flange? To the left of the carb (on the scuttle panel) the previous owner had taped up a load of cable which I haven't untaped I'm assuming it's one of them that needs to be attached? It's odd that it's doing this now as the car ran fine when I got it (albeit the problems that needed sorting) I suppose it's one of them things.

 

Thanks Jonny.

That's good infomation to know. Feel like I'm getting somewhere now with how it should be set up. I've got an oil catch can also installed as well but currently not hooked up which I was gonna do when I change my rocker cover and do the twin carb set up. Another thing when I set up the 40s do I need to sort out a heater for the carbs as well?

 

Sweet. Thanks RJ I will let you know how it goes when I've sorted it. Fingers crossed it works.

 

Does anyone know the part number for the original pierburg carb heater element as I need to get one to attach to my Weber, tryin to rule out carb icing and previous owner didn't fit it when he did the swap. Also if anyone has one knocking about spare or knows where I can get one that would be great.

Cheers.

 

Well I have a bit of news that may help others who have had a similar problem like mine. Yesterday I decided to start the ol gal up and let her run to temperature. I've noticed that she sounds like she is suckin in more air then usual (never been too much of an issue just though it was due to the aftermarket filter) however I decided to spray a can of trusted carb cleaner onto the actual throttle assembly and would you know it she started to die in rpms. I ain't taken the carb off the car due to the crap weather but it looks like that I have a vacuum leak around this area. The base plate is new so there are no splits and it's all bolted down correctly so I'm assuming a o-ring or something similar has perished and is causing this issue. I will keep you all informed when I find the culprit

 

Update

I decided to strip the carb down to the bare bones and rebuild and clean it completely. All the nylon washers on the throttle body had worn down and there was play in the mechanical components. All new washers, o-rings and inserts have been replaced and now she runs better so far. If anyone else has similar issues this might be the reason for it.

I've heard that Webers need to run with the timings slightly advance but I'm not 100% sure how true that is so if anyone has any information on this that would be great.

 

Thanks RJ that helps a lot. I've notice now that I've got fuel leaving from the pump on the carb and what appears to be a crack in the carb body. Just ordered a whole new unit for now until I can sort out the 40s that I want to install. Nothing but greif so far. Oh well onwards and upwards I suppose

 

Well I know this thread is been a bit long winded but it's now come to breaking point. I decided to invest in a brand new Weber carb as the old one looked to have had it. New carb fitted and it drove well then.......


She broke down twice


Took the fuel line off and noted no fuel pumping through (yes I had a full tank of fuel) the AA came out and established that the blockage was from the swirl pot as fuel was flowing from the pump (which is also brand new) swirl pot is about 7-8 months old. Second AA attendance blew through the pot and no blockage, return feed has been restricted and line is clear. The fuel filter has no crap in it so can't find what's causing this issue.

I'm now at my wits end with the whole thing and I'm getting closer to either changing the engine completely for something else or just getting rid of the car completely which I don't really want to do as I've spent quite a bit of cash on it.

Any suggestions as to what it can be I would appreciate it.

I'm London based if anyone is local or can recommend a decent garage

 

I'm planning on dropping the tank so I'll check that out when I do (time permitting) Thanks for the tip tho. I think I'll do the entire fuel line system as well while I'm at it then that way I know there is no blockage in the fuel system.

 

Hey RJ.

I did try running the fuel line directly to the carb and was still getting the same issue but that was with the old carb. I'll try it again with the new one and see if I still get the same problem, I'm just worried that I may flood the carb if I run it like that for any length of time or am I wrong in saying that?

I'll hopefully be able to work on it at the weekend so fingers crossed

 

I will try bypassing it on Saturday and see what happens and blast it through with air to check for blockage. The other thing that it could be is the crank lobe may have worn away slightly which could be resulting in the mechanical pump not functioning correctly (pray that it ain't not that it would make a difference) I will check that out also just to make sure when I drop the tank.