I have had my mk2 8v GTI for 18 years now. In that time it has had a fair bit of maintenance and replace ment parts.The gearbox is now playing up and I cannot select reverse,the other gears are very sticky and difficult to select.I have acquired another engine and gearbox from a later car. Mine is late 1988 and the replacement has some differences in senders,cam belt cover etc.I intend using the original senders as I know they are OK.The injectors in the replacement are blue,I seem to remember the ones in the car being grey but I may be mistaken. Am I likely to find any significant differences? This will be my last major job on the car as I am now 72 and things don't get any easier now!
Hi Digi, Rubjonny will be the man to answer but as far as I recall if you're going from early to late, there is a change from CE1 to CE2 wiring - did you get the wiring loom with the car or is it strictly the engine and gearbox only? Even if you don't it can still be done but as far as I know you need to make wiring, sensor modifications etc. to get one to talk to the other.
Hi Costel,thanks for your reply.I don't intend to use anything electrical from the replacement engine so I hope there will be no rewiring necessary.
If your car is a CE1 , some of the engine wiring is different to the CE2 . Is your hazard light switch on the dash or on the top of the column ? My own 90 8v GTI has a mk3 bottom end but with the mk2 head , that is usually the easiest method , and a mk4 GTI gearbox as the earlier boxes are starting to get scarce.
Assuming the new engine is still a mk2 digifant type you can just swap whatever is different over from the old engine then it will drop straight in
for the ones I've looked up they all flow about the same, certainly haven't seen any listed for a specific ecu. removal is easy undo the rail holding bolts (much easier without inlet fitted!) and out they pop. before fitting you could check them both to see which is best. fit up to the fuel lines and sit each injector into an equally sized container. disconnect the coil wiring so no chance of a spark then crank over for a few seconds noting shape of cone and how much fuel is delivered on all 4. or if you have plenty of time to do the swap send all 8 injectors off for cleaning and testing, use the best of the bunch for the new engine
I would buy a complete sachs clutch kit while its apart, these come with a new release plate, a set of pressure plate bolts, the metal spring clip and the correct spline grease
The clutch is nearly new,the problem is that the thrust plate does not have the bit in the middle that centres the pushrod,it is just flat.The pushrod has been skating about and running off centre leaving a wear point not central. I have had to take the car off the road today as it is stuck in third gear! It's a good job I am retired as I can take my time with the engine and box change.Thanks for your input John.
ah ok. part number is 055141124H/J and will set you back 21.69+VAT from VW. Or I found this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122359697236 if the pushrod has been wandering maybe you need to do the brass pushrod bush & seal as well, may as well do the input shaft seal while you're there. Lots of info on brokes website if you fancy a go: http://www.brokevw.com GSF stock the bits: 315VG0010 Gearbox main shaft bush 311VG0020 Gearbox seal-input shaft 311VG0030 Rod oil seal-main shaft
Thanks John,I have already replaced those parts and the pushrod. I have just referred to my Haynes manual and it looks like the thrust plate I have may have been intended for a 190mm clutch. This is the Mapco one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAPCO-10...m2ce64a6a6a:g:LBUAAOSw~ShceBiy&frcectupt=true I have no idea of Mapco quality though ?
Looks like they are made in Germany and I can't find anything negative about Mapco. Does the pushrod need any grease or lubrication?
need a bit of lithium grease on the back of the release plate and pressure plate fingers, and on the release plate button
Sorry to jump in but have you considered what jobs would be prudent to do while you've got the box/engine out? rear main oil seal, cambelt, water pump, gearbox seals all spring to mind.
Hi Ambrose,I have replaced all the engine and gearbox seals,cambelt and tensioner etc,thanks. I have also bought a set of plastic cambelt covers as the engine only came with the bottom one.I can't say I'm to happy with the fit though.The old ones are metal .
My Mapco thrust plate has arrived and it looks good.It came with a set of flywheel bolts as well so good value. I seem to have something missing from the bottom cam belt cover.The top fixing has a bushed hole that lines up with a counter bored and threaded bolt which holds the metal backplate.What sort of bolt or fixing should this have?
if you want to convert to plastic covers you need the complete set including the metal plate round the back plus the inner half moon piece which bolts to the rocker cover end studs: 026109127C - inner petal piece - NLA 026109175A - lower cover - 17.98+VAT 026109107B - upper cover - 20.22+VAT 026109173A - inner half moon piece - 6.67+VAT
Thanks John,I have already bought the three plastic pieces,The inner metal piece came with the engine which had the (damaged) plastic already. I looked up the Bentley manual online and it shows a socket headed shouldered nut,would this be on the original tin cover? Are the bottom two fixings socket head screws and are there any spacers involved? Thanks for all your help.
