hello, I have a 1981 golf gti (1588cc), & sometimes it splutters for a few seconds after I've switched the ignition off. Does anyone have an idea what this could be, any help would be greatly appreciated
Classic symptoms of 'desieling'. A build up of carbon depoits within the cylinder. This is normaly only on carbed engines, however, if you have a leaky injector it may well display the same symptoms. You need fuel to keep the engine going, so there is fuel getting in to one or more of the cylinders somewhere... A leaky injector would be a good place to start.
Hi. Sounds like it's running on. Try a google search for "dieseling" for further info Potential causes from the top of my head are a carboned-up head &/or incorrect ignition timing
Hi again, thank you for your instant replies. I forgot to mention my fuel pump is wired to a switch in the car (so I switch it on before I turn the ignition on). Would this mean I have switch the fuel pump off before turning the ignition off? I have very limited knowledge on engines so would it be a big job checking/cleaning the injectors, & also would it take alot to repair a leaking injector? My old mk1 cabriolet 1.5 carb also had the same problem but it happened on every ignition switch off. Ive painted cars since I left school but when it comes to engines I'm stumped
The switch for the fuel pump is probably related to it... I would have thought you should switch it off before turning off the ignition. This may be why there is still fuel going in when its off.. Just try this for a bit before taking anything apart.
Hi again, I've been out in it today & yes, when I switch the fuel pump off, then turn the ignition off it doesn't splutter whatsoever. Thank you for that I'm sending her for a service next weekend so I'll definately mention the carbon deposit issue, & hopefully they can check/clean it whilst doing the other bits. Once again thank you I went out to pick a friend up who's new peugeot 206 had broken down, think it was an immobiliser issue so wouldn't start. The look on his face seeing a 29 year old car start first time will be posting some pictures of her very soon, you won't be dissapointed
Use high octane fuel every 3-4 tanks you fill up, or some redex in the fuel should keep it a bit cleaner....
i think you should start by putting a proper fuel pump relay in. the setup you have now is dangerous in that if the car has a crash, the pump wont cut out. fire + a constant source of easily burnable fuel isnt a good thing if your tapped in the car upside down
Hi john, i agree about the danger. Is it a big job putting a proper fuel pump relay in? What would I need for the job/or would a garage be able to fix this?
it depends what was done to get the switch in there, plus also why it was done? i know the early ceramic fuseboxes are prone to burning out the fuel pump pin on the fusebox and I believe a recall was issued by vw to have a relay fitted above the fusebox to stop this from happening. what you would need is a mk1/2 k-jet fuel pump relay, plus a vag relay holder above the fusebox. these you can chop out of most later vws, often see em up there for lambda probe heater, electric windows etc. you will need to splice into a rev counter feed to trigger the relay, the live and earth wires will be easy to sort as lots of live feeds on fusebox and earth to the 'claw' or chassis. handily the output wire to the fuel pump has a spade connection in the A pillar area, so dead easy to splice into it. its liek a clear plastic housing with 3 spades on it, you'll see what I mean. for the rev counter wire you need to locate the red/black wire from the coil, splice into that. It runs to C/19 on the fusebox, see my fusebox faq for more info. you want the 'Early MK1/Scirocco Fusebox' section near the bottom
hi again john, it was like this when I bought it. I just assumed this would be the norm for such an old car. My previous oldest car being a 1983 mk1 golf 1.3cl & this didn't have a switch. I know very little about electrics, but I've checked the relay you mentioned(a cube shaped fuse with pins?), so I'm guessing the vag relay holder is where you plug it in? Do you have an idea where I can source both these parts. If you could recommend a garage in the Yorkshire area that could do the 'splicing' when I source the parts? I'm sure you have the knowledge to do this job with your eyes shut but unfortunately I don't have that experience & don't want to risk damaging it. Will I also need to source any wires?
if it was me id be down the scrappy with me snips, chop a relay holder out of a random newer vag like a mk3 golf or whatever, relay you want a new one from gsf: 935VG0090 k-jet relay without limiter 23.20 wire and pins should be supplied by whoever does the job, id take it to a good auto electrician though as hopefully they'll do a better job with the wiring. shame you aren't local as I'd have this done in a jiffy! need to splice into an ign live feed, get this from the coil live feed at pin C/15. then splice to rev counter wire which would be red/black to pin C/19 (don't cut these wires, just splice in wires to them) then you need an earth, which will go to the 'claw' above the fusebox or the chassis. permanent live feed goes to one of the H spades on the back of the fusebox, finally last pin is the output to the pumps which you would run to the spade connector at the A pillar as above (or just follow the wire from the switch) fuel pump relay pins are as follows: 15 - ignition live 30 - permanent live 31 - earth 31b - rev counter 87 - output to fuel pump Next print off these for the electrician bloke so he knows exactly what wires he needs, first this is fusebox faq section for your fusebox: http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=1945620&postcount=7 and this is the wiring diagram for your car: http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/g1wiring81gti.pdf HTH
I've called gsf & they have the relay in stock & are saving it for me as I can't get the car out due to the weather : \ I'm ringing the scrappers now, how big is the actual relay holder so I know which bit to cut out? Regarding the people who Ive rung to do the job, I was quoted 90 for 2 hours job & I buy the bits, or volkswork in Leeds who'll do it for 50 if I buy the bits. Plus they'll have a look at the lights whilst they are at it(my other thread) he said it may have had water damage in the past hence the switch move? So he said to do the job it'd need a new fuse box if waterdamaged, or If not he can just do the extra relay holder. Thanks for the diagrams I'll be printing them off today as I'm currently on my iPod (shame this site doesn't have an iPod app as I can't upload pictures)
its about 3cm by 3cm, you'll see what i mean as there will be a relay fitted to it. mk3s usually have em for the leccy windows or lambda heater with a 53 relay in there, loads of other vag motors up to the late 90s will have em too. hardest part is getting the thing unclipped from the fusebox, need thin screwdriver and some patience. oh and while you're there grab a fuse holder too, you need a fuse on the pump relay output wire ideally. you could just do all this with spades direct to the relay or aftermarket holders, its just if you get vag ones they'll clip nicety to the top of your fusebox
