mk2 golf gti 16v.. I have this guide to follow, Ive tested my tci-h and coil and they are fine. Hall sensor: 1 Check that the ignition system wiring and plugs are fitted correctly. 2 The coil and TCI-H unit must both be in good condition. 3 Pull the HT lead from the centre of the distributor cap and earth it to the engine or bodywork. 4 Pull back the rubber boot from the switch unit and connect a voltmeter between terminals 6 and 3. 5 Switch on the ignition and turn the engine by hand in its normal direction of rotation. The voltage should alternate from between 0 and a minimum of 2 volts. If not, the sender is faulty and must be renewed. My tcih doesnt have anything in pin 6, no wire coming out of it. Also what ways to people manually turn their engines, I read you can do it on the alternator, which is in a better place than the crank shaft nut. Or is there a different way to test the hall sender? I would of just bought another one, but they are 130!
Would I even get an rpm output on my screen if the hall sender was knackered, am showing 200rpm whilst cranking, didnt think I'd get a signal if the hall senders nakered.
wheres that guide from,i dont get number 4,tci unit has nothing on pin 3 and a brown/blue on pin 6 that goes to FEI unit (ECU) The wires from hall sender got to the FEI too on pins 15,9 and7,so not sure what it means by switch unit
16v ignition tests. TCI-H unit - testing 1 The switch unit is located in the left-hand side of the plenum chamber beneath a plastic cover. The ignition coil should be in good condition before making this test. 2 Depress the wire clip and pull the connector from the switch unit. 3 Connect a voltmeter between terminals 4 and 2 on the connector then switch on the ignition and check that battery voltage is available. Switch off the ignition. 4 Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminal 1 on the connector and terminal 1 on the coil. 5 Refit the connector to the switch unit, then connect a voltmeter across the low tension terminals on the coil. 6 Release the spring and pull the connector from the control unit, then switch on the ignition. Check that initially a reading of 2 volts is registered on the voltmeter, dropping to zero after one to two seconds. If this is not the case, renew the switch unit and also if necessary, the ignition coil. 7 Using a temporary length of wire, briefly earth terminal 12 on the connector. The voltage should rise to at least 2 volts. If this is not the case, renew the switch unit. ECU - testing 1 Test the TCI unit before checking the control unit. 2 Release the spring and pull the connector from the control unit located in the right-hand side of the plenum chamber. 3 Switch on the ignition, then use a voltmeter to check that battery voltage is available between terminals 3 and 5 on the connector. 4 Check also that battery voltage is available between terminals 6 and 3, then operate the throttle valve switch and check that the voltage drops to zero. Switch off the ignition. 5 Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the connector terminals 1 to 3. These are the temperature sender terminals and the resistance varies according to the coolant temperature. 6 Press the clip and pull the connector from the side of the distributor. Connect the voltmeter to the two outer terminals of the connector, then switch on the ignition. A reading of 5 volts should be registered. Switch off the ignition. Hall Sender - testing Note: A digital multi-meter should be used for testing. Do not use a test lamp 1. Release the lead connector from the Hall sender unit. Check the voltage supply to the sender unit by connecting a multi-meter between pin 1 and 3 of the hall sender plug, then switch on the ignition. A minimum reading of 5 volts should be indicated, if not check the FEI control unit and wiring. 2. To check the signal from the Hall sender unit, slide the rubber grommet away from the sender plug and with the plug connected, attach the diode test light to its centre and outer (brown/white) terminals. Operate the starter motor and check that the LED is seen to flicker. If it does not, the Hall sender unit is at fault and must be renewed.
200 rpm on MT emery1990? If yes then this is normal and the hall sensor via dizzy is working. Also the hall sensor in this case has nothing to do with the TCI-h unit. That is triggered by the megasquirt ECU. So hall signal to ECU, converting signal into engine speed > ECU then can trigger TCI-h to fire coil. The wiring to the TCI-H unit and the coil should remain mostly VW.
Cheers people. lol I was following a different guide as rj said, not the one on this post. Yes 200rpm in megatune, I did think it wouldn't show at all if the hall sender was broke. Glad it's not broke, costs a bomb! RJ I think you did say what it was for, but I just went along with it ! lol And yes it's just the s5 I have brought to tcih.
