I don't know why but this Hammerite smooth spray paint costs more than the bog Halfrauds spray paint AND takes forever and a day to dry And it's getting properly annoying I buy decent stuff to put on a 1982 Mk1 Golf shell in the hope of giving it every chance of surviving well, and it's a ball ache to use. It's also really difficult to spray on well, often orange-peeling at the slightest excuse and sha99ing the resulting finish. Halfrauds tins by comparison: 3 coats on in an hour, a joy to use - but lacks the rust preventative <whatever> factor that Hammerite has in the formula. Any tips anyone?
I actually found the Halfords stuff to rub off under even slight pressure even with laquer. So no tips re the Hammerite but I think its the best of a bad lot I'm afraid.
We spray all our Superstox arms and axles with Hammerite smooth without any issues, however we use Plasticote on them when its going on a trade stand. In my opinion the finish is better.
When i painted the borbets with hammerite smooth, i sat each tin in some warm/mildly hot water for a while. It comes out of the tin a little more misty which lets you blow it on more acurately Its always dried alright for me, but thats doing a few thin coats and then getting the last one on a little thicker to get a gloss like finish. Neil.
Guys, don't use Hammerite on cars, it's rubbish stuff! Much better products can be got from Frost etc Hammerite is oil based so no good for engine bay bits and it's also got very little corrosion protection so not really any good for underneath a car either...
I use the Hammerite Smooth Satin finish. Can re-coat much sooner. Still wait over night for full dryness though. But I have found no other out the can spray that lasts longer and resists damage than hammrite smooth. I have even done the ARB's in it! Best thing is, no primer direct to metal. I always do at least 3 coats though. Gurds
S/charged - Hammerite is resistant to rust - that's why I bought it. But using it - nightmare. Thing about the temperatures is it's warm enough atm, so surely it can't be a heat issue.
hammerite isnt the greatest and it wont hold the rust back alot rustoleum is a better product..still takes a while to dry but its harder than hammerite , i wouldnt paint a dustbin with hammerite if you have por15 or rustbullet are a great choice
Doesnt hammerite stuff take like 6 weeks to fully harden, sure i bugger a refurb on some minilites and tried rubbing it down after a couple of days and it was still soft under the top skin/layer. Would agree with the por15 stuff, loved by landy owners the world over. Frost is the place for some quality products but watch the prices and google for cheapness elsewhere
It's not at all mate, Plasticote is better - all Hammerite say is that you can paint directly onto rust, which you can but 6 months later it will be back... Same company makes Waxoyl, also a pile of cack compared to other products.
none of the paint over rust cure it all products work well at all...spend your money and time into removing the rust before you repaint wire wheel in a grinder/dremel or pref a sandblaster for suspension bits that come off...then some quality primer and paint and it will last a good while
There are a number of solutions to impatience: - get a cup of tea - go for a cigarette - bang the wife - have a **** - break/fix something on your car - watch the telly
Yeh it has to cure for 6 weeks, you only get a certain amount of time between coats before it starts to go off, if you spray on another coat on after that you`ve knackered it.