I paid about 30 for my ignition switch for a small bumper 1989 mk2 (hazard switch on the dash) from VW.
Well I've done it today, took about an hour and a half and it's cured the recent problem, but not the headlight one. Think I'll get a replacement headlight switch and start again.....
My headlight problem has come back. Before, the side lights and full (high) beam worked fine, but it just wouldn't turn on the dipped beam. All of a sudden it fixed itself but now it has come back with a vengenace! Neither the dipped beam nor the full beam work now, and flashing the full beam doesn't do anything either. I've tried changing the dash switch but that has had no effect. I'm going to have a play with the multimeter tomorrow. Perhaps it could be the indicator stalk that's the issue.
I haven't got back to looking at mine yet, but my dipped beam is still off, though with a single headlmap grille on at the moment it doesn't seem to dazzle anyone anyway.
Finally got back to this - tried another switch and it was no different, so I took the fusebox out. didn't really know what I was looking for, but changed most the fuses. On that it seems to suggest that L or M are the Headlight/dimmer switch wiring harness. On the M part I only have one single wire on the top connector and nothing on the bottom. None seemed particularly slack or broken - is there anything else I should check or look at?
Yeah, I've been looking at them, I'm just not sure whether something should be on the bottom one labelled 'M' in the diagram I posted as there's two pins, but only one is connected to anything, or even if I'm looking in the right place.
Right, I've just bought a cheap multimeter - I'm wanting to check there's current coming to the fuses in the fusebox and also in other areas. Problem is I've never used one before - I'm trying to read up on the internet, but can anyone tell me what I should have the Multimeter set to? for the fusebox I'm guessing the red plug should be in DC (10ADC) and the meter set to 20. on the V (volts?). The one I have is something like this:
yep, quick test is put it across the battery terminals, it should show 12v Set it to the ohm setting to 200 or 2k to test if you have a break in a wire, i.e put it at both ends of a wire and the display should change to 1 to show it passes current (and also if you touch the test probe ends together)
Just an (belated) update to the issue I mentioned in my last post... I solved the problem by replacing the indicator stalk.
I haven't done that yet, though it needs replacing anyway after I snapped a bit when replacing the steering wheel. Did you buy new, or second hand?
I've replaced mine now and still the dipped beam doesn't work. Today I've tested the uprated wiring loom and it seems ok, there's continuity where it should be and power to all areas except to the lights, which makes me think it's something to do with the older wiring in the car or fusebox.
