How to remove / refit 16V Cams. A Guide.

Discussion in '16-valve' started by Nige, Feb 11, 2009.

  1. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    I`ve recently replaced my standard ABF Cams with 2 KR Exhaust cams (The inlet cam is a KR Cam with extra keyway machined). I couldn`t find a definative how-to so thought I`d write one.

    If there are things I`ve done wrong or could be better, let me know and I`ll edit my thread. Like a lot of my guides, this is to help people who want to try but aren`t 100% sure what to do.

    This is simply a GUIDE to help you. I accept no responsiblity for damage caused by following this guide. If you are not sure, get advice BEFORE you start.

    Initial shot before I did anything.
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    Remove HT Leads.
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    unplug engine breather from inlet
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    undo jubilee clips and remove short length of intake pipe
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    Remove the 5 x 13mm nuts that hold the 2 halves of the inlet manifold together. (My fingers are pointing to 2)
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    To help with initial timing, I marked the distributor and housing with tippex. This gives a starting point when reassembling.
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    Unplug Throttle switch
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    Remove bolts holding rear manifold mounts to engine block.
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    Remove the vaccuum pipe fro the rear of the inlet manifold
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    I left the throttle cable connected and `flipped` the inlet manifold to one side. You could easily unclip the cable and remove the manifold totally
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    If fitted remove 2x10mm nuts / bolts to remove top cambelt cover
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    Top cambelt cover removed
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    Undo the 8 nuts holding the rocker cover in place and then remove the rocker cover
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    The FIRST thing I do once the rocker cover is removed is `plug` the spaces in the cylinder head to ensure nothing is dropped inside the oilways. I use blue paper roll.
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    Remove spark plugs
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    I put some paper towell in the plug holes - apart from Number 1. Make sure the pieces are big enough so they don`t drop into the engine !!
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    Remove the oil seals from the ends of the head. These are easily dislodged and lost
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    [​IMG]

    To find TDC, I put the dipstick in cylinder 1
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    Rotate the engine with a 19mm socket on the crankshaft pulley. Do this slowly and make sure the bits of roll you put in the plug holes don`t move !
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    Watch the dipstick CLOSELY. It is obvious when the No1 Piston is at TDC. By turning the engine either way, the dipstick can be seen to `drop` as the piston starts its downward stroke. Once you are sure the piston is at TDC, I mark it inline with the top of the spark plug hole with a felt tip pen
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    No2 Piston will be at BDC. Put the dipstick into No2 Plug hole
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    Now mark the dipstick. This will be BDC
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    Remove the dipstick and mark midway between the 2 marks.
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    This is a point where the pistons are mid travel.
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    I also take this opportunity to mark the cambelt and pulley with tippex, again to confirm everything is aligned before starting.
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    Again, just to check all is as it should be BEFORE I start removing this, check that the marks on the cam sprockets are aligned.
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    Also, as yet another check, the lobes on the cams on cylinder 1 are both pointing upwards as on this pic
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    Using a 24mm Socket, loosen but don`t remove the Cam Pulley (out of sequence photo still showing rocker cover in place)
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    If the bolt is too tight, I locked the pulley with a socket extension. MAKE SUREyou put some rag under the end so it doesn`t mark the clyinder head. This will allow the pulley to `lock` and the bolt to be loosened
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    Loosen cambelt tensioner
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    Take cambelt off the top pulley
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    Remove the bolt and cam pulley
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    Place the dipstick in Cylinder 1 and rotate the engine ANTICLOCKWISE until the mark you made earlier for `mid position` lines up. What this does is move the pistons out of the way so there is no chance of the valves hitting them when you refit the camshafts. I always rotate A/C at this stage and then Clockwise later, so I always know what I need to do to get the engine back to the original condition.
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    Remove the Distributor and catch the oil that WILL come out with plenty rag / paper towell
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    When removing the cam caps, I use a T bar, extension and socket.
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    When loosening the cam caps, I NEVER loosen the nuts more than 1 turn at a time before progressing onto the others. You don`t simply remove a cap and then move onto the next one. The idea is to carefully remove the caps EVENLY so the cam doesn`t get stressed and possibly break. This is just as important when refitting the cams It may take an extra 5 minutes in total, but not snapping a cam is worth it.

    loosen the 2 nuts on this cap 1 turn each
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    Then this cap
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    This cap
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    This one
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    This cap
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    and finally the cap nearest the cam pully end.
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    Using the same sequence, loosen the nuts on the inlet cam caps 1 turn each.

    Continue to repeat until all the caps are loose. Do each cap in turn so the pressure on the cams is EVENLY lifted.

    The caps ARE NUMBERED and it is VITAL they are replaced in the correct order and orientation.
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    After a little while, all the caps will be removed
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    In my case the cams lifted out easily, but you MAY need to tap them with a rubber mallet or even carefully lever them out, but mine needed no such help.

    Cams removed
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    Cam chain alignment and refitting
    This is easy to get wrong, people who`ve done this lots of times won`t bother going to the trouble I do, but for a first time, it means you KNOW the timing is correct.

    If you are fitting a new camshaft / campully end seal, don`t forget it..
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    Stand the camshafts on end, on a clean piece of rag / paper. Align the marks on the cam by eye so they are close together and have the chain looped around the sprockets. Pull the cams apart to tension the chain.
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    I found that there are 7 rivets NOT touching the sprockets on each `run` between the pulleys. As shown on this pic. This is to check the dots are at `quarter to 3` and not `10 to 2`
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    Once you are 100% the pulleys are aligned and the dots where they should be, I used the trusty tippex and marked the chain / sprockets
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    [​IMG]
     
    Ben_s likes this.
  3. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    Lifting the cams into position, keep the chain tensioned and lower them into place. First time and the chain will probably loosen and move. If so, simply put the cams down and line up to the tippex marks. Cams laid in place with chain still in position, as checked by tippex marks.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    From speaking to Brookster, Steph and GVK, I found that rotating the camshafts 90 degrees moves the lobes so they are easier to fit. This is why we rotated the engine earlier to move the pistons out of the way. Here you can see the alignment `dot` it at the top instead of 3 o`clock. I simply rotated the cams, still keeping the chain tensioned. This is much harder with high lift cams, unfortunately, I don`t have any experience of fitting those, so I can`t suggest the `best` way to fit those [:s]. If in doubt. Get advice before starting.
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    You can see the chain hasn`t slipped by checking the tippex marks
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    Before proceeding, I applied clean engine oil to all the places on the camshafts where the caps will go. You can use the proper Cam Lube
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    Put on the cam caps and fit the nuts if possible. DO NOT tighten the nuts yet, a turn is enough to keep things in place.
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    With mine being standard lift cams, I was able to push the cams down and compess the springs just enough to fit the caps and get the nuts just `started`. Again, this is much harder with high lift cams, unfortunately, I don`t have any experience of fitting those, so I can`t suggest the `best` way to fit those [:s]. If in doubt. Get advice before starting.
    [​IMG]

    Tighten the caps in the reverse order. I.e. 1 - 3 - end cap - 2 - 4 on the inlet and cam pully - 6 - 8 - distributor - 7 - 5 on the exhaust.
    Tighten the caps CAREFULLY and a turn at a time, you don`t want to force anything or break a cam !

    When the caps are tightening, you can see the oil being `squeezed` from between the cap / cylinder head
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    DO NOT overtighten the caps, 11 lb/ft or 15Nm only.

    I now refitted the Cambelt pulley and turned it to align the dots. Sorry no photos [:$] . I used a spare exhuast U clamp, put that in the pulley `spokes` and then wedged a spanner through the U and used that to turn the cams. Just trying to turn the nut itself probably won`t work. Also check the tippex marks are aligned to double check.
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    Put the dipstick back in No 1 cylinder
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    Turn the engine CLOCKWISE using a 19mm socket on the crankshaft bolt. until it is back at TDC. Remember earlier we rotated it A/C, now we are moving it back C/W.

    Remove the paper towell we put in the oilways in the head and plug holes.

    Once the engine is at TDC, I refitted the cambelt and retensioned it.

    Rotate the engine at least 2 full turns to ensure the cams are moving properly and that the valves are clearing the pistons. If you feel ANY unexpected resistance, STOP, turn the engine the other way and RECHECK the timing marks.

    Once you are happy everything is clear, refit the rocker cover, distributor (using the tippex mark for a rought timing setup) and ancilliaries. Don`t refit the sparkplugs yet.

    I turned the engine over on the starter with no plugs to double check no valve > Piston contact.

    Finally, refit the spark plugs and start the engine. If it runs `rough`. Stop it immediately, it is very likely you`ve got either the cam timing wrong, or the cambelt a tooth out.

    If they are new cams, there may be a `bedding in procedure`, ie 2,000rpm for x mins, if so, follow the cam suppliers recommendations.

    You now want to setup the timing by following this guide FAQ Setting Ignition Timing on a 16 valve

    Hope you find it useful. Anything i`ve missed?
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2009
  4. altern8 Forum Junkie

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    well done nice work
     
  5. Jolfa

    Jolfa Forum Junkie

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    Tip-Ex, a simple solution to what can be a ballache of a job!
     
  6. gillm

    gillm ***** User

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    very good guide as always defo worthy of a sticky
     
  7. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    Good work, Nige. I particularly like the Sesame Street bit where you teach us to count to 7 :lol:

    Good tips and tricks in there.

    As an extra check that you've got TDC and BDC, I'd suggest you measure the difference between the top and bottom marks, but use a ruler over the top of the plug hole to make sure they're as accurate as possible.
     
  8. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    It was easier to show than try and explain in words;) . I started typing it and realised, like a lot of things,a picture says things much easier sometimes...

    Tip-Ex, it can make difficult jobs SO much easier :thumbup:

    Not thought about the measuring TDC > BDC.
     
  9. Mike_H Forum Addict

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    TDC-BDC measurement might not be all that accurate, but a ruler and a thinner marker would help a bit.

    Today's lesson was brought to you by the number 7, Nige, and the letter P. [:D]
     
  10. Brookster

    Brookster Paid Member Paid Member

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    Great Thread Nige !!

    Keep up the good work [:D]
     
  11. davidwort Forum Member

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    great write up, but how do they perform?, I thought the ABF inlet was actually higher lift than a KR exhaust cam, thinking of doing an ABF inlet and KR/9A exhaust myself just to see how the extra left affects the torque curve.
     
  12. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    :thumbup: Very informative mate. Should be a sticky.
     
  13. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Covered the swap quite well Nige.

    And one-two-three-five-six-and a back - two ,three,four, five,six ,seven ...........

    Bloody tunes in my head now!!!
     
  14. azur Forum Member

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    Nice one mate! :thumbup:

    Given me the confidence to fit an inlet cam on my ABF myself

    Any noticable improvements with the KR exhaust cams over the ABF standard ones?

    IIRC the KR exhaust has 10.2mm lift compared with the ABF's 10.8mm so does the extra duration make a significant difference? (KR 226? ABF 219?)
     
  15. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    Unfortunately, I did a few other changes at the same time, so it isn`t a like-for-like comparison. Seems a bit more willing to rev at the top end, but without having a run with one set, then swapping to the other, I honestly don`t know.
     
  16. G60Dub

    G60Dub Forum Member

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    TSC on a bike! That's a clean head.

    Nice writeup too. :)
     
  17. carlos the long New Member

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    that is totally amazing! think i could do with you giving me a few pointers! check out my thread, youll get the idea! cheers
     
  18. tomsdubs Forum Member

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    This is seriously amazing, thanks for going to the effort.
     
  19. Steve B Forum Junkie

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    love the tutorial, having done this myself (when chanigng HG) with no strokes of genius like yourself i was lining them up by eye with all the really hard to see marks, absolute nightmare lol ill remeber this when i do my 6a
     
  20. deMK1 New Member

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    so did you actually swap over from a 9a cam to KR cam using that method?
    i thought there was something you had to do to the inlet cam to make it fit on a 9a head?
    ive been trying to find information everywhere, but with no luck.

    can anyone help?
     

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