How To Repack an SKF Front wheelbearing with uprated Grease.

Discussion in 'Chassis' started by Nige, Mar 31, 2014.

  1. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    I replaced the front wheel bearings with SKF ones (VKBA 1358) :thumbup: I also repacked them with Redline CV-2 grease. This has a significantly higher melting point than the standard grease. I`m hoping this will help alleviate some of the bearing issues I`ve been having.
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    Start off by removing outer dust cover, a razor blade is ideal to lift the edge
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    A small screwdriver can then be fitted under
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    Whilst keeping the blade stationary, ease the seal up using the screwdriver, moving it around slowly. There is an inner lip seal that seats in the inner race, that can be seen on the inner part of the seal, next to the razor blade.
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    Outer dust seal removed
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    By sliding the razor blade horizontally, you don`t `nick` the seal
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    The inner seal is now exposed
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    The blade lifts the seal slightly, then the screwdriver slowly lifts the entire seal
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    Here you can see the outer seal releasing from the lip on the outer race
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    Inner seal removed
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    You don`t want to damage either of the seals, so take your time removing them.

    Inner lip seal on the inner seal
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    Outer lip seal on the inner seal
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    Two fingers pressing outwards and lift the inner race and bearings out of the housing
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    Parts of the original bearing had minimal grease. As you can see, they aren`t packed solid, the grease needs to be able to move around.
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    Separated.
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    Clean the outer race with a soft brush and petrol
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    The cage and bearings simply lift off the inner race
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    Wipe of the excess grease, then clean with the soft brush and petrol.
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    Clean
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    Finish with brake cleaner
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    Same for the inner race, once cleaned with petrol
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    The disassembled bearing. I`ve left the balls clipped into the cage. I didn`t want to risk cracking the cage by trying to remove them. I was able to clean all the grease using the brake cleaner and `spinning` the balls whilst in the cage.
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  2. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    Packing with new grease, press it between the bearing and the cage whilst spreading it around
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    All greased up and sat back on the inner race
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    Grease the 2nd set of bearings
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    Press onto the race
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    Final spray of the outer race then fit the bearing in it
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    Being careful not to overgrease the bearing, I only filled half the `void` with grease
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    Inner seal simply clicks into place
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    The outer one is more difficult to fit properly. Move it off centre, clip in one half, then pull the seal central whilst pressing down. This helps the inner lip seal locate on the inner race
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    Being careful not to damage the seal, the screwdriver is pulled backwards whilst pressing down to push the inner seal into place
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    To the left of the screwdriver, the seal if in place, to the right, it isn`t. The mark on the seal is a blob of oil , not damage ;)
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    Turn it over then repeat
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    Fully assembled, regreased bearing
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    If not fitting, wrap in the plastic and store in the box.
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  3. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    nice thread nige
     
  4. StuMc

    StuMc Moderator and Regional Host - Manchester Moderator

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    More awesomeness, Nige...call that stickied...:thumbup:
     
  5. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    Nice work. Thanks for sharing this.
     
  6. slimwadey Paid Member Paid Member

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    Did this do the trick ?
    I have replaced 3 wheel bearings on the same side within a year and I'm fed up with it
    When I fit my new brakes/ hubs I want to maybe do this too
     
    Nige likes this.
  7. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    I haven`t had a failure since doing this that isn`t related to a CV nut loosening. I replaced the entire hub assembly the other month and replaced the bearing too. I kept having issues with the CV hub nut loosening, which then causes bearing failure. I fitted some Nordlock washers and the nut didn`t loosen at all on the last 2 trackdays.

    When I replaced the hub, I split the bearing to inspect. The grease hadn`t broken down and there was no ball or race damage. :thumbup:

    For the cost of the grease and the time to do it, I would strongly recommend you give it a go.
     
    slimwadey likes this.
  8. Crispy 8V CGTI Committee - Club Secretary Admin

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    Thats a cool write up Nige, I have repacked various bearings over the years, mainly rib belt tensioners to help releave a noise as a temp repair
    Never though about striping completely a new one!! When I do I always use a high quality Castrol grease I have rather than the mainstream bulk stuff have access to, just something about the texture/colour which says quality !!

    I can only repeat how essential it is to be careful with the seals, yes there is a double wall of seal on each moving part both critical for long term integrity
     
    Sirguydo and Nige like this.
  9. slimwadey Paid Member Paid Member

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    Sweet , where did you get the grease
     
  10. Nige

    Nige Paid Member Paid Member

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    JJC Race & Rally, along with some other stuff. Just Google "Redline CV-2 Grease", there are several suppliers, depends if you want anything else to help the postage.
     
  11. Sirguydo

    Sirguydo Fastest milkman in the West Paid Member

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    Jjc is pretty good and if you ring them they're very helpful:thumbup:
    Once you've bought something off them they give you a 5% discount code EBAY5 so buy something cheap first then you can use discount on your bigger orders :thumbup:;)
    I just got a bias valve gbox oil an wheel studs etc forgot the super grease [:x]
    Thanks Nige for helpful how to :thumbup:[:*:]:hug:
     

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