I hadn't heard of this Mk1 handling/adjustments?

no should'nt have to cut anything, the sleeves basically sit on the shoulder on the strut piston rod so the topmount can be bolted to the strut in a fixed postion on the rod. basically the same as a standard mount.

 

This is how mine look at the moment:

 

The other problem you would get using solid topmounts with non height adjustable suspension though is that you would be raising the ride height by about 40mm as the solid topmounts sit down in the turret.

 

That's what made me wonder as i saw a car where they had removed part of the turret.

No prob's, could always just make the front adjustable then.

 

Mr hillclimber I can't see your pic and would have loved to

Chris Eyre - in summary what do you do with the hacksaw and washers?

My primitive assessment of Mk1s has been that they don't handle well with the back of the car down (and more caster) so had never thought of increasing it - perhasp I need a rethink

 

Excuse the lived-in look !.... increasing the castor works for me

 

What other mods from standard are you using up front?

 

Just the bottom arm set up and these cut "n"shut Bonrath top mount to reduce the chance of the dampers running out of travel and crashing out. The dampers are bilstein race/rallye units converted to coil-overs with 400ib springs and a standard GTi (at the moment) roll bar.

I run 2.5 degree's static neg camber, the castor is set at (i think from memory, got it written down somewhere) 3.5 degree's which allows the camber to raise on the turn to 3 degree's, on the standard set up the camber reduce's to around 1-1.5 degree on the turn.

There's so much extra bite that the first sprint i did after fitting the lower arms the car kept swapping ends until i altered my driving style !

 

cheers for that, does your steering feel much heavier now mate?

 

Here's a few photos of the original article - apologies for blurredness. My Canon was not exactly playing ball & no scanner to hand...

 

No not really Mike. I noticed the steering to have a slightly heavier feel after the Quaife went in (my imagination or anyone else notice this ?) and "maybe" a very small amount of extra effort is needed since the castor increase but hardly noticable, my wife's Mini requires "a lot" more effort to park on 6x10 rims than the Golf does (though it's VW shaped replacement should be ok next week.. ).

Mind you, it may all change when the quick rack goes in. Plus, one of the down side's to the adjustable arms is a reduction in useful steering lock as the tie-rod part is straight as opposed to the curve in the standard wishbone, so the wheel come's into contact with it during tight turning. It's never a problem on the road or in competition, just a bit more awkward when i have to get it out of its resting place in my mates back garden

I think for a budget type mod though Chris's lower arm mod looks like a good alternative (i have a copy of that as well somewhere), would be a more practical (and a lot cheaper) way of achieving a similar thing for a more regular use road car.

 

Definitely v. v. cheap!

Jason - what sort of pin (material/design) was used as a replacement for the standard outer balljoint pin? Some applications I've seen (non-VW) involve threads on both ends.

I assume there is a (round topped?) spacer between the bottom of the hub and the rose joint to allow it to articulate, unless it has stepped ridges for location of the rose joint?

 

Dont ask me i didnt make it

I've no idea on the material but can find out for you. I dont think the pin is threaded both ends, just at the bottom with a cut-out at the top to accept the standard push through and clamp bolt.


I think theres a stepped ridge for the lower rose joint to butt against, dont remember a seperate spacer (like the ones on the inner mounting point). Will have a look at both for you next time i'm at the car.

I plan on stripping the front suspension to copy at some point for my new long-term project (pics up next week hopefuly) so maybe able to have a few made if the price can be made realistic... and the subsequent divorce does'nt get expensive

 

Could you one of those on mine without having to use coilovers?

 

Any chance of some sharper shots or scanned versions chris ?

 

Yeah no problem, though if it see's a "lot" of road use you may find the rose joints wear quicker.

I think for road use though i would be inclined to try the method that Chris detailed in that article and see how you get along with that first, it would be a whole lot cheaper thats for sure !

 

Will do in due course - about to buy scanner but 'pooter playing up....

 

Mine is more a track car now, is chris's way reversable or adjustable?

 

No - you can adjust the modified set back to standard by putting the packing washers aft of the wishbones.

Or run 2 wishbone sets.

 

I don't mind either way, whichever is cheaper i suppose & improves track usage.

What's the cost difference of the two & would you expect the same returns?

Cheers.