John mentioned notching the race to aid it's removal so I was just explaining why I couldn't do that. Yes I'll not be going crazy with the punch that's for sure. I just wanted to be sure there was no need to shell out for an expensive split collet internal puller if I didn't need to. One other thing I need is some kind of magnetic disc which is nice and flat to place between the diff and dti to measure the end float. What do you use yourself?
Lol, he's not notching the race, he knotching the seat behind the race aloowing more clearence to get a punch in. No need for a magnetic disc, just something clean and flat. The tension of the dti will keep it flat, just be careful lifting the opposite side to raise the diff, nice and slow/steady to avoid things jumping about
Ah right, it just didn't occur to me that he meant removing material from the casing itself lol. Right I can see a way forward now, I take it the races can be punched out without removing any material from the casing?
Yup, but as Jon said and yourself there's not a lot of race showing so a punch or dolly with a nice square edge is best do you have good surface contact.
Okay cheers ill get myself a decent brass punch tomorrow and see how I get on. I'll report back hopefully tomorrow
Can we have a few pictures please All sounds good but a picture says a thousand wordslol Sounds good look forward to hearing how well you like you're new diff
Ok it was just the square edge that threw me yes I'll make sure I drive it with a new unmolested punch and hopefully I'll get it out without having to do anything more drastic. I'll try and get a decent punch today then and ill take pictures as I go
Managed to get both of the old diff outer races out and the new ones in using a brass punch then a steel punch then a drift to put the new bearings in. I took a few pictures which I'll try and upload in the next few days. One thing I've noticed is that the plastic speedo drive gear that sits on the diff has a fair bit of play in it when rotated, can anyone tell me if this is normal?
Thanks again mate just wanted to be sure before I pressed on the new bearing on top of it. ARP bolts arrived today so I'll get the diff bolted together tomorrow, bearings pressed on then ill fit it into the box and according to the VW procedure use 5 bolts at 25NM to hold it together before checking the end float.
Another quick question if I may. When installing the ARP bolts into the crown wheel is it impertinent that they are pressed in or can they be pulled in by putting the nut on the other side and tightening?. Obviously this will twist the splines on the bolt as opposed to drawing the splines and mat not lock itself in as well as if they were pressed?
Pressed , not pulled. You'll stress the bolt pulling them in as they are so tight, you could even take them past their yield point which isn't good.
I drilled 2 holes in the bell housing when fitting the quaiffe to an 02j. Was able to push the bearing and shims out of the bell housing from behind in order to assemble then dismantle and reassemble to get preload shims perfect without damaging the bearing. Holes were then filled with FLUSH grub screws and sealed with JBWeld. A bit off topic, but a top tip
Did the same on a recent 020 build to set the pinion preload. Three holes, after making a jig to drill then, M4 if I remember right. Box is on the bench ready waiting for my mk2 rally car Jon
Bit of an update, finally got the crown wheel bolted to the diff, there was a used and damaged bolt in amongst the ARP bolt kit I'd been sent. Thankfully I was issued a replacement set without any hassle. Managed to install the new diff bearings, measure the end float at 0.65mm and then remove the outer race from the gearbox casing in preparation for installing the shim which I've ordered from vw today which is 1.05mm giving the required 0.4mm bearing pre load. Unfortunately I've noticed that the 5th gear teeth have some damage which I'm pretty gutted about. Over 250 from vw for the 5th gear cog, needle bearing and synchro ring :0. Thankfully I have another gearbox which is an 02A CTN code diesel box. I'm not sure what the ratios are yet of this gear but all being well ill be able to use that if it checks out ok when I open the other box up. All relatively straight forward and I didn't have to remove any material from the bearing seat to aid removal of the races which I didn't really want to do. Had a trial fit of the selector arms and refitted the gearbox casing half just to see how tricky it would be to keep everything in position and line the selectors up to install the pivot bolts which didn't cause any problems. Fitted new diff seals and input shaft seal and now I'm just waiting for the shim to arrive. I'll fit that and put a smear of sealant around the casing halves before bolting it all back together. Overall not a bad job really just time consuming but as with everything it's easy when you know how. I'll get some pictures up soon.
Superb thanks for that . 5th gear in my ENJ box is 0.837 compared with 0.755 in the CTN box. I expected the ratio to be longer in the CTN box which it is so I just need to work out how much this will effect things in the real world. Maybe it will be a better gear for cruising.
Thanks again, that sounds like it could work well for cruising and a bit of fuel economy on a long run
