Jacking up rear of Mk2 Golf

Access to the right measuring gear helps

And, to run with your point, if the bend isn't visible on something that wide it isn't going to have very much effect on the camber. I haven't done the maths but to pull the wheels to positive would, I think, need visible damage.

Given the beams design I'd hazard that if you put enough weight on it you'd be more likely to crimp the beam ie: bend the bottom lip towards the top but only in the vicinity of the pressure point. Even them the very fact that it's a torsion beam means its made out of steel with a fair degree spring in it suggests to me you'd need to put a aweful lot of weight on it.

I don't think there's much more I can say. Bring me an example of a beam bent by simply jacking the car up and I'll think again.

Barkstar

 

What you all fail to realise is that the MK2 rear beam is an open V section in the middle, jacking up one one side of that is VERY different to the effects a torsional load has on the section from normal use.

Why take the risk, just use axle stands ate either side. Safer to work on aswell.

 

Christ 22 posts on jacking up a golf. Dont jack it on the beam. There was a guy on here who did cant remember who it was it was along time ago and he bent his. Use the jacking points end of discussion.

 

No, I think it's best to discuss it further, what about jacking on the sills, I'm guessing it's ok to do that too?

 

Once more with feeling :

I put it on axles stands (third time of mentioning it). I'm still no more happy about the twisting force through the shell by going up a bit at a time on either side - and you're far more chance of it falling off a stand mid-lift doing it that way.

And I haven't failed to realise anything. The very fact that it's a V means bending it is difficult. I understand there's a difference in the way the loads are applied but apart for the notional possibility of crushing the V how far do you think you'd have to bend the beam before it would fail to return given its material qualities.

I have a spare beam kicking about so if I can figure a way of destruction testing it I will. Any simple ideas - and no wags suggesting wrapping it round my ear

Talking of sills and similar structures I wonder how many owners have used the front subframe to get their car in the air? Now that I wouldn't do.

Now if it would stop raining I could find my oil leak

Barkstar

 

I'm with Barkstar on this issue. I also always raise it on the beam, put the stands under it, lower it onto the stands, job done.
Mine is a rally car so I fiddle around with it all the time, changing wheels, adjusting this, changing that... It's had its rear up more times than I can remember - and I DO check alignment. No issues so far...

Barkstar basically sums it up in saying that twisting the whole body when raising the car one side at a time really isn't good either, not to mention the risk of it falling down from the stands. Mind you, I use a professional jack, meaning that I lift at least 40 cm., and more like 50 cms into the air. If I do that in only one corner, it doesn't look good, and it's NOT very stable while doing it.
I can live with having to replace a beam given some freak (and in my oppinion very unlikely) incident compared to the more damage I would get from the much more likely event of the car falling off one stand.

BTW: What's wrong with jacking the front end on the subframe? I do that all the time too - that's even more often than the rear. No problems here so far either - not even a dent...

 

yer im with you two guys on this. proper two tonne jack, up under rear axle, lift, place axle stands, lower! much quicker than jacking up both sides, and when you have to raise the car enough to put an axle stnad under it your putting a whole load of stress on the whole car body, twisting it - the front end trying to stay stright whle the back end is twisted. The beam only takes the weight for a short period of time and then axle stnads are placed under it, no problem! always use a short block of wood or piece of rubber. but generally find it much easier to jack the car up on the rear axle and front subbeam, jobs a goodun. so much easier whe the car is just lifted up at two points, whack the axle stnads under and happy tinkering. (no bent beams)

 

the torsional forces acting on the car from being jacked on one side at a time are much greater than the moments acting on the beam from jacking it on the central part of the rear axle.can be shown with calculations and the rear beam can take a damn sight more abuse than a small amount of weight being applied to it every no and again,i have only every seen on beam bent and my mate achieved that by having a massive off into a ditch and planting the car squarely on a big block of concrete.i jack the car up every time on the rear beam,no probs so far!

 

I also jack up on the rear beam (Mk1 & Mk2) although only occasionally, use a block of wood 2" x 2" x 9" - no problems to date (Mk1 has been 4 wheel aligned since).

 

Probably nothing when new but there've been a couple of threads recently regarding rotten ones. Still probably better in collapses on the jack than on the road

Barkstar

 

Absolutely

 

better to put on 2 axle stands thus halving the load on each point

 

when i got the rear of mine in the air i just used two jacks lifting at the same time, one on each side. was only to change the rear suspension to wasnt in the air that long.

probably buggered the car then lol

 

I just always use two jacks myself.

 

with your little brother jacking the opposite side in sync to yours? worked a treat.

anyone know if you can jack one side at a time to remove a rear top mount? you need to basically drop the damper down just enough to swap them.... i dont have two jacks at the mo :S

 

Probably not - it is a torsion bar yes, but with no weight on the wheel in the air, it won't come down far enough.

Just jack it in the middle...

 

Thats about all you need to know really.

Jackin a car up on the rear beam? Thats just silly really isn't it?!

I presume your problem actually stems from the fact you are using a cheap rubbish jack that doesn't actually lift the car up enough. Get a propper jack (3 tonner+). Use the jacking point as outlined by VW and both wheels will come off the floor more than enough to get axle stands under.

 

Care to explain why instead of just insulting people?

Nope - I use a 2,75 ton jack capable of lifting 80 cm. - but my axlestands are some 40-50 cm. tall. Lifting in one corner enough to get the other corner 40-50 cm. in the air would make the chassis see some serious twisting, and would require me to lift REAL high. Also, since I put my axle stands on the jacking points - then where am I to put my axle stands if use the jacking points? Surely you don't think that I should put the axle stands under the rear beam now would you? Cause we all know that it would bend the beam - or how was that again?

 

right i think i have a bit of info to help stop all the bickering!!lol

went for my mot yesterday and when the guy was checking the underneath of my car in the pit he started to jack the car up on,wait for it.........yup the rear beam in order to get both rear wheels off the ground to check the rear wheel bearings and he jacked it up on the front subframe aswell to do the front bearings.

the only difference between his jack and mine is that his can travel the whole length of the car on runners in the pit!!

plus the jacking points vw advise you to use are for changing a wheel,not doing major suspension work etc

 

38 post and climbing And I like a good bicker And just to stir the pot - I'm feeling cantankerous - did all the 'don't do it' posters check their beam for straightness upon buying their car? Someone else had mine and yours for 14+ years and I fancy they went up and down on the beam more than once in that time

Barkstar