HI, Ive just got one its a 1986 d reg, atlas grey. Its in really good condition inside and out. Problem is the clocks say 220k and it came with some 115k clocks. I was told the clocks were changed because of the scratch on the 115k ones. I have checked on the dvla and it only goes back a few years, it says 220k and in the last few years its only done about 150 miles a year!!??? Ive only got the last mot for the car. Also I was wondering what MPH the original clocks go upto, the ones in there say 140 and 115k ones say 160. Any help on this would be appreciated, its baffling me because it really doesnt seem like a 220k car... Another thing i would like to know is how many gts were made? Cheers, Scott
8v will be 120 or not so commonly 140, 16v are 160. cant help you with the correct milage, but after 220k does it really matter anymore
No after 220 i wouldnt be bothered, but im told its done just over 115k and that the 220k clocks have been put in by the "previous, previous" owner because on the old 115k ones the plastic screen is crappy. Hmmmm, wel its an 8v and the 220k clocks say 140 so im guessing the 115k ones that go to 160 arent for the car at all. I just wanted to get to the end of the dodgy milliage i may have een told.... Scott
oh i see! well if it really is 115k then i would expect the general condition of ther car to match these miles, look for wear on the pedals, switches, wheel, seats etc. if they're all smooth and thread bare then its prob done more than 115k.
Hello mate. You were the only person to reply and funnily enough ive been told on vagingit my usual forum, you are the man to ask about fitting the gt with an abf... So, i have a complete ibiza cupra on a P plate as the donor. The whole car. I was just wondering what isues i will have when fitting it. I have been told it will bolt straight in, but im unsure about issues with, Exhaust/manifold Pre 90 fusebox Chip in key Lambda Clocks Fuel pump Probably some other things i have forgotten! Any help would be greatfully recieved! Cheers, Scott
1. easy, use the abf maifold, then get a mk3 2.0 8v/16v or corrado 2.0 16v or G60 downpipe and cat bypass + either a reducer for the std system, or fit a mk2 16v system. finding a getta 16v backbox may be a struggle, so a reducer will be needed there. If it has the 6 bolt flange downpipe you could use this, but then a lambda boss will need welding in 2. not too bad, need to splice the early plugs to the late loom. i can tell you how or do it for you if you like 3. can either fit key reader to your lock housing and get a mk3 chip key blank cut to your locks and swap abf chip in, or tape chip to key reader and tuck it behind the dash 4. fit to the mk3/corrado cat bypass, sorted! 5. mk2 clocks can be made to work, i always mod the looms this way as i also convert them to run mk2 coil + tci. this enablews the oem dash to be retained 6. if its fuel injection your old one will be fine edit: the ibiza downpipe might work too, but I'm not 100% sure on that one. it uses a 6k... part number so its not the same as the mk3
Wow! Thanks for that! SO! 1. Get a downpipe/find out if ibiza one fits. Get a reducer as i want to do it on the cheap at the mo. When you say "If it has the 6 bolt flange downpipe you could use this, but then a lambda boss will need welding in" Do you mean if the jetta has a 6bolt flange on the manifold, it will fit the abf? 2. Yes any info on the wiring would be amazing, people were saying i would need a ce2 fusebox etc... so was thinking it would be a mission i would rather do wiring that take the whole lot out. 3. So thats easily sorted then... 4. lambda, so weld to downpipe or weld to cat bypass/ 8v exhaust? 5. I would rather keep the original clocks yes 6. Its k jet, i heard theres a "reducer" or some sort of pressure difference but that may be wrong.... Is this ok? Know anywhere i can find out about the ibiza downpipe? Thanks buddy!!!!!!
1. aye if the downpipe has a 6 bolt flange it will bolt direct to the abf manifold. just as i say, need to get a boss welded on for the lambda later on 2. it would be more work to replace the car loom, but take more brainpower to splice the plugs 3. aye 4. weld a boss to your downpipe, or it will fit directly to a cat bypass as the hole will be there already 5. good man, convert to use mk2 tci + coil and sorted. also worth doing becasue the mk3 coils are crap and always fail 6. no need, the fuel pressure regulator on the abf rail will take care of everything. what you do is cut up the old metering head hoses to get the barbed fittings out of them, then fit the oem abf fuel hoses onto them. cut here, in red and remove the rubber/plastic bit from the threaded end:
rYTEEEEOOOO! with caps on oops... lol So now... 1. Understood lets hope its 6 bolt... boss is all cool 2. Ok brainpower it is lol with your knowledge of wires i dont think i will need as much as normal haha 3. Tick. 4. Tick. 5. Im being special, whats involved in the mk2 tci+coil, whats that? the ignition system? lol I need to take a closer look at the abf to see what it runs i havent actually got it at mine yet. Will this cost much to change? 6. Think i get ya! So theres no other things i might come across!? Thanks alot!
2. hit me up when you want the infos! i should get round to making a CE1->CE2 pin guide at some point... 5. the tci is the 7 pin thingy in the scuttle tray, this drives the coil. what you do is pull the mk2 tci loom out and splice this to the abf loom, so it doesnt cost you anything
Ok well, when ever ur ready ill have the info haha. Then i can get a plan together and idea of how long it will take, im off work for 10 days, im busy but i might be able to fit it in... just need to pay for the rest of the car and get it home... haha What sides the tci loom on then ill take a browse!
driver side, its under the wee plastic cover in zee scuttle. have a read thru my fusebox faq, then if you have further questions hit me up! these diagrams will help you understand ce1->ce2 differences: http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/golf91.pdf http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/jetta89.pdf heres the abf ecu, immobiliser and vagcom diagrams, have a read of my how to read vw wiring diagrams thread to help you understand them: http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/g3abfecu.pdf http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/g3immobilisor.pdf http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/g3vagcom.pdf
One thing, should i be cutting the wires from the fusebox leaving enough room to soulder them on or should i be taking the pin out and putting the abf loom ones in? hmmm or is it just before the plug i am changing and not the fusebox wiring???? I need to look really!
you need to cut and splice, unfortunately the ce1 and ce2 pins are different shapes. what i do is strip both looms down, then remove everything from the abf loom that isnt to do with the engine. then on the mk2 loom remove everythign that IS to do with the engine loom and combine the 2. the coil, mfa outside temp sensor & wiper loom and are the main things that need to stay from the mk2 loom as they're different lengths on the mk3/seat. also you may find all the lighting loom is bundled in with the abf loom, that can all be chopped out. also cut out the battery live and earth wires from the abf loom as those are in the mk2 lighting loom. you can bin the carbon canister plug too! cut the abf coil plug off and bin the brown and black wires too. once all stripped down on the abf loom you should end up with a green/red wire which was to the abf coil and a brown wire from the ecu that was spliced to the battery -ve wire, plus a black wire to the fusebox area from the round engine plug. splice the brown ecu wire to the tci earth wire to battery, and the green/red to the tci pin 6. the 2 mk2 dizzy wires left over can be binned (3rd wire goes to tci pin 6 see) black wire splice to the omk2 loom coil black wire. most of the other wiring to fusebox is pretty easy, just a case of matchign wire colours. there will be 2 wires to the ecu from the abf ecu relay, what i do with these is put the abf ecu relay in a VW relay holder above the fusebox and wire it in that way. lambda and injector wiring goes to a plug hanging off of E/14, which is where the WUR plugs into on the k-jet loom. also you'll have a another red wire from F/5 on the abf loom which can plug into a spade from C/18 on the mk2 loom where the 5th injector thermoswitch used to go. it'll make more sense when you have the looms in front of you i hope!
