K-jet rough on start up - newbie questions!

Discussion in 'K-Jetronic OEM injection' started by peteg40, Sep 15, 2012.

  1. peteg40 New Member

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    Hi - got an 86 golf with an EV engine and whilst i've had Polo G40s, gts golf g60, abf etc- but never k-jet.

    Basically, been stood a while and it always cranks, starts and idles awfully but dies. after about the 4th time it starts and chugs a bit but then as it warms it tends to be fine. I've run it with the 5th injector off and it just wont start when cold.

    Any ideas of what to check? i'm new to k-jet so sorry in advance of stupid questions!!!!

    I've replaced all ignition parts - plugs, dizzy cap, arm, leads etc by the way

    thanks in advance pete.
     
  2. Lhasa2008 CGTI Regional Host

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    If it's ok once warmed up, then from experience I'd say check the warm up regulator (mounted on the front of the block) :thumbup:


    ..then then the metering head..then rust in the fuel..then.... Oh the joys of k-jet! ;)
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2012
  3. Collie Forum Junkie

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    i love kjet!! sorry but my kjet was awesome compared to my digis!!!

    how does it react if you start it and hold say 1200rpm?
     
  4. TimmyTurtle New Member

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    My Mk1 does something like this, starts well but dies about 4 times in a row,then rough idle for 30 secs then fine. The only things i havent swapped or replaced are the fuel pump and accumulator. Fuel pressures all read correctly though?.?. Ive given up and just live with it for the amount of miles i do
     
  5. peteg40 New Member

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    cheers for the comments guys - by the 5th injector i meant the plug on the front of the block - or is that the WUR. I thought the injectors were leaking, it being rich and then it clearing it out when running for a while - but with this unplugged it just wont start at all.

    As for trying to run it at 1200 rpm idle not a chance. If its ticking over roughly, then my foot on the gas means it just doesnt pick up at all and cuts out.
     
  6. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    The `plug` on the front of the block is the WUR; the 5th injector / cold start valve is on the top right of the inlet manifold.

    Have you a manual / access (free) to www.vagcat.com ?
     
  7. peteg40 New Member

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    I've got a haynes and got vagcat -i'm pretty handy tbh, but never owned a k-jet before - so wanted to know the best place to start from those more experienced than i!
     
  8. Gaz37 The Grouch. Paid Member

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    Turn up the idle speed using the screw on the throttle body (just next to the vac hose connections) anti clockwise to increase idle speed.
     
  9. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    Fair enough, good luck ...
     
  10. MUSHY 16V

    MUSHY 16V Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    lol unless it's a mk1 golf manual he's going to get no where with it


    start by pluging the warm up regulator back in ffs
     
  11. peteg40 New Member

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    the wur is back on - i only unplugged it to see if it made a difference

    Well i'll read up - get a mk1 golf manual and start from there.
     
  12. jamesa Forum Junkie

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    Did you try Gaz`s suggestion ... the idle screw ?
     
  13. peteg40 New Member

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    undid idle screw, it kind of idles a bit better when cold not much better at all though. But when you pull the throttle cable the metering head kinda vibrates and coughs really bad!
     
  14. spyrock Forum Member

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    You should start by following this K-jetronic fault finding diagram:
    [​IMG]
     
  15. peteg40 New Member

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    well i changed the timing belt and it was a tooth out... when warm idles lovely etc. slightly difficult to start but least I'm making progress!
     
  16. 3hirty8ight Forum Member

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    I solved this issue on my race car today. It was always a really good starter, until I changed to a different metering head. This fix will only work providing there isn't another underlying issue with your pumps, or injectors or WUR etc. I know all those things on mine are fine as they have all been reconditioned at great expense!

    If you remove the main system pressure valve in the meting head, 16mm hex head, and carefully clean and make sure that the valve and spring action is completely smooth and that the neoprene washers haven't fallen apart. Be carful to reassemble as per how it came out - Same washers etc preloading the spring.. Soak all the bits in penetrating oil overnight etc, and blast out the threads in the metering head.. Removing the metering head from the plate assembly completely is the best way to do this.

    Re-assemble with a small amount of grease on the washer so it doesn't snag when doing it up.

    This should stop the spluttery startup and crap idle that clears after about 20 seconds..
     
  17. peteg40 New Member

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    just seen this - thanks. Which one do you actually mean? i'm a little confused... is in the one on the outside near all the banjos??
     
  18. peteg40 New Member

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    to add to this thread. the fellow now idles fine and also runs fine when warm. But when cold - for 2-3 mins is sooooo spluttering when the foot is on the gas and the metering head coughs a bit.

    Does it just need a good set up now?
     

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