I am having some problems and was hoping someone could help, I have a 2ltr 16 oettinger tuned pl lump, that hasnt run for a few yrs. It recently has got back on the road, however has been running at about 4% so is a little rich..Well i tried to follow an adjustment guide on the site, to no avail, and now the car wont run at all. At first, it had cold start issues, then warm start and now wont start at all. Plugs are black and wet, there is fuel in the exhuast and on my mates co2 meter, we are well off the scale, we just cant seem to get it back to running properly. Taking off the intake pipe, and looking at the diaphram, it seems to be in tolerance and moves up and down, but depsite numerous attempts at starting the car we just cant get her to run, and when she does splutter, its like she is running on 3 cylinders. There is ignition, and fuel, the only thing really touched has been the metering head so i cant help but think its that, i just dont know what else to do, its past my experience, and i dont know of any garages that specialise in this stuff in the south east. I found a supplier who reconditions stuff (KMI petrol injection), so do i replace the unit, or take it all off and fit something better? I dont want to spend a fortune trying to fit an old cak setup, however the car ran ont he rollers at 183 as it is, so it cant be that bad a setup can it? thanks
Remove the injection pipes from the meter head then remove the meter head Check the center fuel pin as it may well be sticking if the car has been sitting for a long time. Just remove it and hit it with a bit of carb cleaner then wd40 and refit should move with ease, This should sort your problem. If your car is a mk1 your fuel tank will be the problem As the inside ceiling of the tanks are known to rust if left sitting for long periods' then once the car is run again and fueled-washes the lose rust of the ceiling and inturn kills the fuel system, **This stuff will get by your fuel filter** Still not hard to sort, just takes a bit more time. If your stuck ring me and I will talk you through it Will pm number.
disconnect the lambda, if thaats bust unplugging it i think will put it on a default map. also check ecu temp sensor
its a mk2 volksport, so hopefully not a fuel tank issue, thanks for the offer of help:> is the centre pin under one of the injection lines? I had it running for a few weeks, so i dont think its a blockage in the metering head, i cant help but think i have damaged the metering head, in my attempts to adjust it. Well it had a new lambda fittd recently tho no doubt will be coked up now, would that stop the car starting? which is the ecu temp sensor? side of the block i take it? when the car was running, i swapped them around and when the car was running it almost died when i disconnected, so i guess that is working.
not sure how the pl is but it should be on the side of the head, could have single pin black for ecu or maybe 2 pin white?
will have a look, what should i be looking for, to make sure its connected or for a broken wire? any other ideas?
Blue / white cable for the ECU temperature sender. I assume that the PL has an ISV ... the temperature sender cable for this is red / green - this can also cause running issues. http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/GO/1990/110/57/1100007/ ... all below cover the PL 8 049919501 temperature sender / for coolant, oil temperature indicator and glow plug relay 0-125C M10X1 1 pin black / diesel eng. 8 049919501 temperature sender / for coolant temperature gauge / idling stabilsation / use for: 0-125C M10X1 1 pin black 027 919 501 / 16V (9) 026906161 temperature sensor / idling stabilsation M10X1 2 pin white / 6 035919369D thermal switch / for lambda probe / for vehicles with regulated catalyst 25/17C M10X1 2 pin black / KE-MOTRONIC, K-JETRONIC (6) 027919369B thermal switch / for lambda probe / for vehicles with regulated catalyst 45/17C M10X1 2 pin black / KE-MOTRONIC, K-JETRONIC
just the single pin sensor on the pl with a blue/white wire, i just double checked. swap the wire with the red/yellow and see if anythign changes, plus if you can get the car going watch the dash gauge to see if the temp readings differ. both the single pin sensors on the side of the head should be black collar btw.
thanks guys! yes it has an ISV, i cleaned that through already, the car is in my friends garage at the mo, as we couldnt get it running, so next step is find someone who can work on ke setups, and or start stripping parts. Will check the wires/sensors mentioned, thing is cant even get it running atm to see if swapping them round will make a difference. Thinking of taking the ke jet stuff off and fitting some carbs for now...is that a bad idea? i just need it running asap without buying loads of ke stuff, and have seen some carbs at a good price with bogg bros inlet an fuel pump/reg.
