Hi all, I am after some advice to make and install a rollcage for my syncro, (next year ring car). I plan to fabricate and weld the cage in so its completely secure. Does anyone have some good photos or plans for a golf cage that I can aquire. progress pictures will be posted Cheers
save yourself the hassle of trying to get tube bent and buy a weld in kit from the roll centre. alternativley you could buy a bolt in kit weld it in and add to it. you would only be adding straight tube so it would make the job much easier.
the stuff you need CDS is qwite difficulkt to get hold of and expensive and as pol8 says bending it is going to cost as you will be lucky if you get the hoop right 1st time. Best way is a roll centre weld in where the hoop and A pillar bars are all pre bent. I worked out for what I paid for mine it would have cost me more to buy the plain tubeing!!
Thanks for the tips guys, The machine shop here at work can get the tubing at 5.00 per metre. Ive estimated 1 need 18 metres so 90 quid, They dont have a pipe bender but can get get one lent to me for 50 for the weekend. I will do it gradually to get the right bend for the shell. Ive got the use of quite good welding equipment so it should only take me a few weekends. I want to keep the cost down thats whey I would prefer to make my own and learn from it, and because there is no big hurry in doing it a bit at a time. I want to be able to say that I did that if you know what I mean.
Nice idea one other point to think about. If you wish to go near a track with your home made roll cage. You will need a certificate from a approved maunfacture, such as Safety Devices, OMP etc. The track officials dont like home made cages. Edited by: philip walker
It's normally over 10 per metre. Recently bought some 38mm Clubman 500 from these guys. 5m for 45. You don't bend it with a pipe bender, they collapse the tube. It needs to be mandrel bent. You can buy the main hoops pre-bent with enough tube to finish the job from the rollcentre for 315 plus VAT. If you build your cage to the blue book, it doesn't need to be homologated. An MSA scrutineer can sign it off.
In racing or any of of motorsport- yes of course, but there is no scrutineering at trackdays & in 20 odd trackdays with all the main organisers I've never ever had anything checked car wise- excluding a db check & that im in long sleeves & trousers & the windows are wound up.
Ive no intention of using the car professionaly, it is purely for recreation. the cage is for added protection as I can't really afford to damage my Leg or arm again. If i had to certify the cage I could probably do it myself, not as a manufacturer but because I am a registered safety practitioner. I would have to obtain the "Blue Book" specification to qualify the certification. (What is blue Book?) I get the steel cheap because my work is the biggest organisation in the country and it gets a hugh discount so thats why its so cheap. At No-Rice tonite i was checking out the white and blue 20v G60 Motorsport golf, the welding on that role cage was rubbish,I also looked at a couple of Mk1 cages that were just bolt in jobbies (OMP) the brackets were solid but I am quite confident I can match the welding. I do appreciate the info chaps so dont think I am taking it the wrong way. Has anyone got any pucka measurements or designs ?
No probs. You will get advice from all corners, that why its good to ask. Still think it will be cheaper to buy a s/hand bolt in cage in the long run. As time goes on you may be tempted to do the odd sprint, circuit race then you may wish you built the cage to spec. The "blue book" is the RAC motorsports hand book. I gives the tecnical data, homologation regulation and build spec etc for most aspects of motorsport.One other point, a car with a RAC log book is often worth more!
Some things i have learnt from experience with my MK1 rally car, be careful when deciding how you want to go about your side impact protection, i dont know how serious you want to get with your cage, my mk1 has a cross between front hoop and main, across the door, you want to make this cross (or just one diagonal) as low as possible, it makes the car an absolute pain to get in and out of. Also you want to have a look at how you will pick up off the rear strut towers, in the mk1's we double skin them(cut panel panels out of a donor car and double up) then make up a pipe that goes around the strut top, and connect each bar to the pipe (and gusset from the bar to the skin of the tower) For a track car it may be a bit of overkill but the tower extra tower strength is great for rigidity. Also Window nets are a great idea, very easy to smash your window with your helmet and lose an arm. good luck -Jamie GolfNut1
Thanks again for the tips guys. Ive just had a brilliant bit of good luck Ive just found 2 Mk 2 cages, you wait ages and 2 come up at once. 1 is brand new, its never been used and not been painted and is complete with diagional. The other cage is missing the side struts and 2 bars. It looks like I am going to buy them both. and just fabricate the missing pieces. which sounds to me a lot easier.
I've had a look around the web, but I can't find an online version of the RAC "Blue Book". Anyone got a link?
, picking the cages up tomorrow morning. Cant seam to find the blue book Specs either, I have foud fIA stuff that covers grades grades of steel and welding, I think you have to pay for it.
