Folks, The answers to this may be stashed somewhere but if you were to contemplate putting a 16V engine into where an 8V once was, what is to be changed? I am aware of the following: Different brake discs and pads as 16V discs are larger (239 v 256mm) - I think the servo/master cylinder may also need to be changed Different shocks and springs - 16V is 10-15mm lower than 8V with standard suspension Different Gearbox What I'm not sure about is: Dash/Clocks - Is everything the same there? Fuel Pump/Fuel Lines - Are the 8V & 16V pumps the same - plus the fuel lines would need to rerouted/changed Sensors/Wiring - I believe this is where things could get messy as 16V has more/different sensors and the 8V wiring loom may need modification/replacement Thank You Robert
Exhaust system is bigger bore and more boxes. Maybe different hub carriers and calipers on front to accommodate bigger discs. ECU?
if pre-87 8v with KJet: Complete fuel system in the engine bay including metering head, WUR, pipes, airbox etc Full engine loom, if you want the ISV to work. If not you can rewire the 8v loom to suit 16v positions and drop 16v ecu + spark loom on top. either raise base idle a bit or try the 8v AAV instead of the ISV. You can use the 16v manifold on the 8v downpipe & system if money is tight, I would fit full system just so its 'correct' more than anything else 8v system has been proven to be ok though on a standard-ish 16v if digifant: As above, plus fuel pump assembly with fuel accumulator etc and plastic pipes front to back Need to change engine loom for 16v so the cold start stuff works properly, can be modified but for all the effort easier to change the loom either way if you change engine loom make sure its right one for your fusebox for an easy life. again can modify to suit either way but its extra hassle. try a good breaker such as Brendon Moss on Facebook for the bits you need. non-essential but required if you dont want anyone to know it used to be an 8v: front brakes I would go at least 256mm with 22mm master, but pre-88 mk2 16v ran same brakes as 8v so technically correct if car is early 8v gearbox works fine, same ratio as 16v except 16v has slightly shorter 5th and if late 8v shorter 2nd gear too. Difference is slight, if 8v box is good then keep it. Note 16v box has bigger input shaft so make sure you buy correct sachs clutch kit to match gearbox. 8v clocks will work perfectly fine just lower top speed and rev limit than 16v version 16v badge on rear, grille and glovebox roof mounted aerial if its 88 on tinted rear lights 16v suspension or aftermarket lowering kit print a new boot data sticker with correct engine code
Folks - Thank you very much (RJ you're a tome of knowledge as always) The car is a 1991 8V (bog standard) and I have a '90 16V (bog standard) that is about to be gutted and the shell dumped in the next few months (was a UK 16V originally) I was thinking about doing a transplant as I had a 16V back in the day but I am in two minds about it. I would have everything to do it but the thought of it is giving me a significant pain in my genitals - unless I could hire RJ to come to Ireland and do it with me...what's the going rate for your international VAG consulting and installation services RJ?
Well that makes life really easy for you then assuming the 16v is also a 90spec. unbolt everything that's different, throw it in the 8v and jobs a goodun. the hardest part will probably be undoing all the rusty bolts if all the 16v mechanicals are good, main thing is fuel pump housing often split and are hard to get and other bits and bobs in the kjet injection getting a bit hard to find. Other fiddly bit is getting the 16v downpipe in there either have to lift it right up and fit from underneath or lower subframe or pull the rack as the resonator box wont fit in the gap. Good time for a roll bar upgrade though, that's the only reason I bothered to get my eibach fitted it it wasn't for this unexpected issue it would still be in the back of the garage I expect next to the rear one the alternative is take all the nice running gear upgrades and drop something a bit beefier in there abf/vr6/20v whatever floats your boat then sell off the rest to make some money back. I'm always around to help on the internet along with the rest of the helpful guys on ClubGTI
Cheers RJ, I've said it before and I'll say it again, I'm always very impressed with the advice and help I get on CGTI. Engine, fuel system, petrol tank, gearbox, suspension, drivetrain is all out of the 16V, the only thing principally left is the interior (rainbow which definitely won't be getting binned) and of course the wiring loom. I actually got and installed new mounts and peripherals around the fuel pump and bracket - it is literally sitting there looking at me as if to say "well donkey when am I going to be put to use?" I have the KR on a stand and replaced the injectors and seals and got the manifold powder coated, plus new sump and gasket, timing belt and tensioner, spark plugs, oil pump, ISV, sensors. Gearbox was also overhauled and painted (just needs new oil). I have accumulated everything - new Hella lights, grille, new logos and badges, new trim, taillights, trailing arm powder coated and new bushings, new shocks, top mounts, bump stops, stub axles, bearings, brake accumulator, handbrake cables, wishbones, anti-roll bar bushings, new exhaust and rubbers, brake discs, pads, master cylinder (22mm) I was well on the way but heading to Canada screwed things up and now the 16V is on a rotisserie since 2010 - I've bought a nice genuine and standard 8V - maybe it's a shame to convert it to be honest but my late father had an 8V and then a 16V and it was the 16V that I always wanted and in 1995 I got one and God I loved that car - Reg. No. 91-LH-225 Maybe it's just nostalgia but I always loved looking at that 16V lump in the engine bay - the 8V (performance difference aside) looks far more anonymous in there even though it's also a great engine
Great news, well done pal. I have had 2 of each, and I must say 16v is my favourite, you can tootle around all day at low revs and it is just like an 8 valve, but get it over 4000rpm and it changes character completely.
When I'm back in the Emerald Isle later this year - I might take some photographs of everything that I've bought/hoarded over the years, plus the abandoned 16V shell and post them on here as an expensive and soul destroying example of "What not to do with your Mk2 - don't be this guy"
Great progress Yep be sure to start a build thread we all want to see pics tbh the 8v is never going to be as valuable in standard form as a 16v so I say convert away. Mine was a total poverty spec 8v when I bought it, didnt even have green tint glass! Only option it did have was a split fold bench, still kicking myself for getting rid of it. But hey ho, its got Recaros now
Just to bring this back to life, I was back in Ireland for about 10 days and was up the walls trying to get as much as possible off the now cancelled Mk2 16v project and get familiar with the Mk2 8v that was bought sight unseen. First of all the 8v was running badly (fluctuating idle, cutting out, hesitation when driving etc.) Even though the service records shows newish coil and HT leads (magnetron), I binned the lot and installed a new Bosch distributor cap and Bosch HT leads, cleaned the rotor, changed the plugs for Bosch units and things began to look a lot better. There is a still bit of lumpiness when cold, blue sensor looks new but I have a new VAG one that will get installed when I'm back in October. The 8v has a stainless steel exhaust and 4 branch manifold installed just a few years back which is OK (I would prefer standard) but it's also on coilovers which is definitely not OK and will be getting binned for the standard 16v set-up that I have for the (Boge/Bilstein) The seats/interior is good but rear cards/inserts are loose for some reason but either way interior will be getting replaced with the 16v's rainbow interior which is also in great condition - I removed the 16v interior after my mates and I got the car turned on the jig - not that easy tbh but she's horizontal now The driver sun visor was broken - it actually hit my brother in the love spuds when he was bringing it in from UK so I used the 16v one and the ashtray (not that I use it) was missing so that was also an easy replacement. 8v like 16v is on 15" standard BBS alloys so I now have 4 (+4 spares and all the BBS caps as well). Here are a few pics of my garage/workshop. My E28 is there as well and it may not be a VAG but it's a really great car and original as can be (ex-UK as well)
The 8v has also had bottom end and head work done (seems to be preventive rather than a failure from the paperwork that came with the car) and the oil pump has also been replaced as I know they're not as tough as the 16v pumps. Head was just cleaned and skimmed. It's got new steel braided brake lines, new black diamond pads (front & rear) but still has the standard 8v 239mm discs and 20mm M/Cylinder-I think I will keep my 16v gear for the 256mm swop. The steering and subframe bushes are polyurethane, water pump and timing belt have been done plus thermostat and alternator is also newish. I have decided not to do the 16v transplant as I really don't see the point and as it turns out my first cousin (ex-VAG mechanic) wants to buy the 16v shell along with engine, gearbox and whatever else I'm willing to give him and I'd rather see her saved that way.
Here is a pic of the 8v - I will take more when I'm back in October all going well with the 16v suspension and interior installed.
