As above, engine RPM indicates crankshaft position sensor is ok. Got my hands on a spare to confirm and tested with LED and VAGCOM again. Same results as prior, so ruling out the CSP. I randomly checked the plug to the camshaft position sensor (black plug under dizzy) and noticed the terminals were dirty/rusty. Probed the wires with the multimeter, ignition and earth wires are good, signal to ECU had the following results: Ignition Off; 0v Ignition On; 11.45v Hand Cranked (king lead off); 11.21v - 11.35v This signal voltage is coming from ECU... with ignition on, the signal wire on the plug shows the same 11ish volts. According to the ABF wiring diagrams I have, this signal wire should show fluctuating voltage between 0v - 5v when idling. Should there be a constant voltage signal with ignition on?
Fyi.. just saying Not sure of sfatus of no spark, adding this to thread for anyone in future to use... not relevant to this situation if engine has spark I have a running abf that has a history of no spark. I have never managed to establish a signal test using an led for the crank position I have achieved a led test for the dizzy hall sender I have watched a youtube video of an engineering explaining the relationship of the ecu and cps in creating the necessary square wave to establish a crank position signal. I am not electronic minded. If you get a faint spark at ignition, then nothing, symptoms are the same, this could mean a faulty ecu or faulty cps. I did not have vagcom and diag port installed at the time, my biggest mistake! The immobiliser will permit spark and engine will fire The connections under the steering column are evil, ignition and stork can wreak havoc [*]I have changed coils I would try a working ecu regardless of immob I did tidy my looms I did remove the connections from plate on block and house them separately I eventually replaced the ecu, column, ignition and keys. I added common grounds to the block and it started after 3 months of no spark I changed knock sensors, vac lines, grounds, fusebox cleanup, relays, cps, plugs, leads, dizzy cap, battery terminals and many bosch connectors... Touching my wooden coffee table... my abf purrs at 900 rpm, 6.5 l ler 100km and after a great many years, it was worth it. It is delightful!
Thanks mate, these are similiar to my symptoms, but not quite... One spark from the king lead on ignition (but not leads/plugs) then nothing with start... i.e. the engine does not fire as in your example. Could you do me a favour and unplug the dizzy hall sensor plug and check the voltage of the middle wire on the plug with ignition on? Do you get a similar voltage as me (11ish volts)?
for a start the throttle angle should range from 0 to 70-90ish, 35 is nowhere near enough for full throttle. when i checked my crank sensor i got 12v across the live and earth terminals with the ignition on if thats any help.
Yeah, throttle needs some work. I think the carpet/insulation is limiting peddle travel (I put some extra in for heat/sound a while back). Important thing is that the reading changes! What do you get for the dizzy hall sensor plug with ignition on (middle wire)?
ok thats cool if its down to that then and not a wiring issue! I haven't checked my dizzy plug but if you are seeing voltage then there shouldn't be any issues there either. plus you can have the dizzy completely disconnected and the engine will still run ok. have you managed to sort pin 7 cranking live yet? iirc someone had trouble on a digifant till they fixed that. maybe go back to the wiring work you have done, check all your ignition feeds are in the right place and you have no blown fuses. If you put any ignition feeds to the G spades you should only use spade 2 or 5, 1 and 3 go dead when cranking over on the starter. check the voltage at the coil both with ignition on and while cranking to make sure all is good there. did you convert it to mk1/2 TCI + coil setup or is it still running the MK3 coil?
We have spark at the leads I was taking the coil ignition power from G spade 8, which has power at ignition but not when cranking.. strange as I wasn't even getting a signal to the coil when I tested with an LED, so figured the signal was the issue not the power to the coil. Ran the multimeter across the spades, I get ignition power (that doesn't drop out with starter crank) using G spade 3. So, ECU + coil + fuel ignition power all run off this. rubjonny, you bloody ripper!! I never would have thought power would cut off during cranking. Thanks a bunch That said.. still not starting I can smell fuel. Power to fuel pump and injectors (from relay pin #87) hits 12.5v when ignition turned on (I hear the relay click and fuel pump primes) but then a second later the relay clicks off and voltage cuts to 0v. Once I engage the started motor, voltage jumps up to a continuos 10.5v. This correlates with the wiring guide I have. I assume it's designed for a brief fuel prime, but no continuous power so pump doesn't burn out. Let me know if this isn't normal. Will take a plug out and see if I can smell fuel and test voltage to the injectors...
ok progress the fuel pump is supposed to prime for a few seconds with ignition, and it should then run continuous while cranking. You may want to whip out all the plugs and give them a good buff up and let them dry out, you may have a lot of fuel in the bores from all this messing so crank it over without plugs and coil power wire off to blow out the excess fuel, or just leave it for a while to evaporate off. Just FYI if you have wired up the ABF 30 ecu relay there is a short delay before it will prime again once the ignition is switched off, you can hear the relay click again a few seconds after switch off. after the relay clicks, the pump will then prime again with ignition on. if you switch the ignition on and off then on again quickly the pump will not prime. If you are using a normal switched relay (or haven't run the G1/7 wire top the 30 relay 86a) then it will prime on ignition every time regardless. If you aren't using an ecu relay its worth adding one, the G spades arent built to take much load so you may pop the fuses if you run coil, tci and ecu off them. The coil & TCI should be powered from D/23 on the fusebox btw, so I would try to run them to that ideally.
Hey all. A bit of delay, due to a new job.. at least I know any fuel has evaporated haha! I've wired up the relays as per the diagram with the ABF 30 from the donor, it behaves exactly like you say; priming briefly on ignition, then stopping, and not repriming again until there has been a small delay. The plugs were sparking ok, so I refitted them and tried again to no avail. Before doing so I cranked it over and noted it turned much faster than when the plugs were in, indicating some degree of compression. I also detected a very slight fuel smell after cranking, but it was slight to say the least. I removed the fuel line from the rail inlet and primed it (with hose and bottle attached), it pumped fine on prime. My next step is to check if the injectors are squirting. I did remove, disassemble and clean the dizzy when I was detailing the engine, I thought I was careful to line everything back up when I reassembled it (and from memory it only went on one way). I'll double check if anything can go on backwards etc. Failing that I'm at a bit of a loss, besides finding a way to check the injector signals...
Hey guys, Finally made some time for the car, pulled off the fuel rail to confirm if the injectors are firing properly. As you can see from the below video, only one injector (cylinder 3) is spraying fuel. You'll notice I've disconnected the vacuum hose, to get to this point, however I assume this still isn't normal?! Any idea why only one would fire? EDIT - Unless this is a 'typical symptom' you guys have seen before, next step is testing the other injectors (by swapping around working connection) then the harness itself. [video=youtube_share;08wHszveYdg]https://youtu.be/08wHszveYdg[/video]
yeah next step is swap injectors round to see if the problem moves or stays, plus I would be checking the fuel pressure is good :
Ok, just ran a simple test on the injectors and wiring, using some jumper wires. NB: Brown wire (connection #5 on plug) is power, Green wire is for signal to injectors Test 1 - Confirm jumper wires can make injector 3 spray (known good injector and wiring) PASS - Injector sprayed with engine turning over Test 2 - See if all the other wires can make injector 3 spray PASS - All of the other wires made injector 3 spray with engine turning over. This rules out wiring. Test 3 - See if injector three wiring can make other injectors spray FAIL - None of the other injectors sprayed with engine turning over Unless the connection from the plug to the injectors is bad (which I doubt as it looks fine), I guess I'm up for 3 new injectors Visual inspection they look fine (i.e. not blocked). I'm absolutely mind blown that all three are bad! EDIT: The vacuum hose is disconnected, I'm assuming this only assists the pressure regulator on the rail and has nothing to do with injectors working/not-working?
id find a plce that can do injector cleaning, fingers crossed they are just blocked with old cruddy petrol. edit: you should see 15...20 ohms across the injector terminals
Thanks for the tip! Hopefully an ultrasonic clean will sort them out. Just tested the resistance of each injector, they're all around 15.1 ohms which is a good sign... I'll get a spare set of hands and do the listen test to see if the solenoid is activating.
Two steps forward, one step back. Firstly, massive thanks to Gavin for the injectors. Incredibly generous, really appreciate it mate Dismantled the fuel rail and removed the injectors, as you can see from the below some of them were filthy. A good warning tale for those who run their cars low on fuel! The weren't all as dirty as the above, but you get the idea! After carefully prying out all the old injectors with a screw driver, cleaning the inside of the fuel rail and fitting the new injectors (via a tap with a hammer)... Success! All injectors fired!!!... then fuel leaking from around injector 1 and 4 As I dismantled the fuel rail to check the injectors were properly seated, the rubber diaphragm forced it's way out. It has expanded so much that it is no longer sealing. As I was cleaning I briefly used WD40 on one of the injector chambers, stopped as I realised it might damage the seals, then forgot to wash it out with fuel It must have reacted with the rubber and destroyed it. Kicking myself for my stupidity Does anyone know what part number this is?
So overnight it seems to have return to it's normal size... I'm assuming it's probably best to replace it anyway?
non of your pics are working, so will have to list em all 037133398A - rail to inlet seal - 11.53+VAT x4 (oof) 073198031 - injector seal kit (contains a big and small seal) - 13.95+VAT x4 (oof again) 037198031 - seal kit for FPR - 5.43+VAT
