Hi guys I've been given the chance to own a really special car. I think I'm going to buy it but I wondered if I could get some advice from anybody that has put an AGU engine (20valve turbo) into a mk1? I'm going to pick it up on Saturday pending test drive and good inspection. The car is absolutely mint with only 2 problems. 1. Rev counter not working 2. Coolant dial jumps straight into the red the second you put the key in ignition. I'm guessing that problem number 2 is as easy as putting in a new sensor? Is problem number 1 as easy as running a new cable to the back of the clocks? The car is as follows: Modifications- 1.8 20v Turbo engine - AUM bottom 9,000 mile. AGU large port head 66,000 K03s turbo Custom intercooler piping 1.8 16v MK2 (fully rebuilt) gearbox Brand new 1.8 16V clutch + flywheel Evo intercooler - custom end plates done by jabbasport. full 2.5 inch straight through exhaust (side exit)- Qpeng downpipe new radiator VW rover 25 fan + cowling 100mm drive shafts EBC green stuff pads + discs 4 point harnesses Front strut brace brand new 8mm fuel lines battery relocation heat wrapped steering rack boots + gear linkage boots Megasquirt Management - custom loom remap compomotive TH Mono's 15x8 195/50 tyres all good tread Ta Technix coilovers new since build Power 209.2bhp at 10psi 220 ft.lbs
More than enough torque to make a 2Y valver box unhappy tho The installation looks a bit rough to me too... Proceed with caution
This depends how it's priced at of course, but, if I were looking at that car, I would wonder WHY the coolant light flashes and WHY the rev counter doesn't work. If its someones pride and joy and 'mint' and these are simple jobs to do, then why haven't they been done? Like I say if it's cheap enough then fair do's but if you're paying good money for a well sorted car and corners have been cut then I would be a bit wary. Maybe that's just me being anal and pedantic though!!
the mk4 temp sensor isnt compatible with the mk3 clocks, so im guessing the same problem with the mk1? needs a 33ohm resistor fitted in the wire that goes from the sensor to the gauge. the k03s does push out 220/230ish but thats when its running higher boost. its only running 10psi as for the rev counter, i'd say its a wiring problem in the engine loom..... running on megasquirt, so its a DIY jobby. otherwise i can say buy it, as it will be an animal and SUCH GOOD FUN!
Ok Ill admit that I dont know a great deal about AGU engines as Ive been addicted to 16v engines. The shell on this thing is mint and has had full restoration work with receipts to prove which is what attracts me to it as its to be an ongoing project over the course of the next 2-3 years and will see very little road action (less than 1k a year). Price is 4k btw. Id probably look to spend another 2-3k on it over the next 2-3 years to completely finish the job. I thought 210bhp at 10psi was pretty decent? Car has head work and exhaust work so I thought this would be why it was getting a nice healthy bhp reading. Chris single coil pack issue please enlighten me With regards to the gearbox I know this will be a weak link. The guy I sit next to at work used to run a mk1 g60 at 230bhp and he blew up 2 of these gear boxes!! What gearbox is recommended as I can always change the gearbox. The coolant level did work until recently. Car has apparently not been driven in a while and coolant sensor has since given up the ghost. My understanding is that coolant temp sensors on these engines do need changing at a certain mileage as they break? Alternatively Im also interested in a mk2 with an Audi TT engine in thats doing 300bhp but the mk1 is a mk1 and Ive ALWAYS wanted to own a mk1!! (plus the mk2 is in Tyneside and thats miiiiles away!)
True enough I suppose, I had an A3 running an AGU engine and the coolant temp sender broke on that, although it was reading low on the dial and running rich as expected. The pronged level sensor in the header tank also played up sometimes which gave a low level reading. If it makes you want to buy it when you see it then go for it, I always think you can tell straight away when you want to buy a car. But im also one to have looked at cars for hours on eBay and Pistonheads and think 'hmmmm yeah I really want that' but then I go have a look and it just doesn't make me want to buy it. It's a dangerous thing browsing for cars on the internet!! Besides there might be a bit of money to knock off as well
I'm doing some serious reading up on the engine side of things. It looks like I can change from megasquirt to QPENG kit for 800. I'm guessing this will really tidy up alot things on the engine management side of things. I'd also want to move the intercooler down to the front of the car away from the rad, although that would detract from the OEM look. Will also get rid of the side exit exhaust to more oem single pipe out the back Like I said before - plenty of time and space to get the car right, as long as the basics are already there.
yeah qpeng is good but if its running good as it is then i would put that money into a nice quaife diff, would make the car much more fun also you fit the diff into a 02a box from a g60 or a vag 2.0 16v. you can get a temp sensor from vw for 20ish or half that price from gsf. should do the job. btw, stick with the mk1! uber cool car, a classic! you can always stick the k04 on later or a bigger turbo and get that power or more. i dont think you need it though, not in a mk1!
I don't think you'd gain much from changing over to qpeng management. there are enough guys on here who can help you with tidying up the megasquirt.
IT's been converted to a single coil pack in the scuttle as opposed to OEM individual coil packs. That could be because of ECU limitations, it could be for other reasons - best find out. I don't particularly like the idea of water draining through the bonnet vents, into the scuttle cover and off to the side near the coil pack.
II've decided that I'm going to buy the car if I like it. I just hope the car is good in the flesh as I haven't been this excited since I went to pick up my last 16v!! It will only come out of the garage a few days a year anyway so I have no issues with tidying up the engine work and completing the job. I'll have a word with toyo about the megasquirt mapping side of things if the car ends up in my garage on Sat afternoon. Chris - I did spot the coil up there - didn't even think about the water issue!! I'll certainly ask that question. I'll have to relocate that as coil pack plus water equals problems!!!
this car has been for sale on edition for ages. i had a superb mk1 20vt similar sped which i recently sold for 5k and it was immaculate. over 200bhp without an LSD na dyou are spinninf in the first 3 gears anyway!!!!! tidy uip the install and fit a cable change with hydro clutch and also tidy the engine bay looks a little messy and it will be a lovely motor.
Im running an AYP in my mk1, my coolant gauge has never been that accurate(dont know why?) not got round to sorting it yet but Im constantly checking on the oil temp gauge anyway. I had to fiddle with my rev counter to get it working, as they normally run from the -ve of the coil, and it wont pick up a signal from the new coilpack unless you convert it to do so with diode and resistors. This is how I got mine working, components from maplins; [/IMG] The oem coil packs normally get ditched as they are a weak point on these engines along with the water pumps(get the metal impeller type) they usually get done with the cambelt. Mine is a similar spec but with uprated injectors, runs 224bhp 240ftlbs, recently added a quaife atb diff to the 020 and its made a well needed improvement! Just hope the 020 stays strong. Looks like a good buy mate, have fun
