Mk1 with ABF - Totally new fuel system and it STILL wont start! Help!

The lambda would still be fused even if the lambda relay was removed anyway. Vw have removed the relay because it was unnecessary.

 

It is what we have been discussing.

If you look at the diagram properly, where the lambda relay is. It shows some different dotted lines. The one that bypasses the relay is the later version meaning. The relay is not used because Vw changed it on later vehicles. It is not even present.

What we were saying is. It is not needed because it complicates things just as Vw did.

If you read the key on the right it explains what date the dotted lines are around from. Ie up to sept '94 or from oct '94 J208 no longer fitted

I think you are over complicating it. The diagram clearly shows 2 alternative wiring options. They are not used at the same time. It is either one or the other.

 

I see.

Consider it deleted.

Once again thanks to all for all the time spent with me on this, replies in detail take time.

I really hope I can report good news this weekend.

 

Hope so too. Had a few problems with this one.

 

OH YES!!!!!!

She`s alive

Earthed 87 from the relay

Earthed the black/brown from pin 28

Still wouldnt start!!!!!!!!!!

Then I remembered the hidden switch for the main pump and switched it on

It fired on the button no rattles no fuss.

The oil light flashes and the top end was noisy so I assumed low oil pressure.

I knew the senders can be dodgy so I got two from GSF.

Made no difference so I thought sod it, I`m sure its not oil pressure but an issue with sender compatibility.

Added coolant and started it up (no rattles) and it ran fine and after a minute or two the top end quietened down completely with minor normal noise and the injectors clicking fine.

Ran it for the best part opf an hour, it stays cool and revs freely but after revving it it idles fast. Pinch the pipe from the cone filter to the ISV and it calms down and ticks over like a sewing machine with no movement at all so I assume its an issue with the ISV??

Am I being naive with regard to the oil light/buzzer as I had issues with it with the 1.8 driver engine that was in it previously?

Thanks again to one and all for the advice and help

Thanks Rubjonny for the loom - we got there in the end.

You only need to remember that (certainly on a Mk1) the Lambda/injector feed relay needs earthing as does Pin 28 - all else is spot on.

 

Well done. !! Got there in the end. The oil pressure will be low after the engine has not been run fir a while. You should really turn it over for a while to get pressure up a extinguish the light before starting. When my engine first started the top end rattled for what seemed like ages until it quietened.

The isv probably needs cleaning with some petrol or carb cleaner to get idle better.

 

Thanks.

The oil light went out when I first pressurised it - before starting - it then flashed when I was turning it over for a while so I assumed it was sensing low pressure however it stays on so I dont know if its the problem I had with the light/buzzer when I had the driver engine in it - and I used to thrash the pants of that one.

It might be low pressure but the fact that the lifters are pressurised and the copious amount of oil at the top end (which requires high pressure compared to the bottom end) suggests it might not be.

I have heard that the buzzer/light in a Mk1 can be troublesome.

What it does regarding idle is when I rev it it stays high and then after a few seconds it drops and hunts a little and then settles down. If you pinch almost closed the hose from the cone filter it settles down to a nice rock steady idle.

Would the fact that it has a cone filter reduce the vacuum to the ISV?

 

FYI, my inlet temps were much much higher when I had my airfilter in the same location as yours. I get much lower inlet temps when the airfilter is just bolted on at the end of the OE inlet pipe and ends up no further than where your tensioner for the alternator is.

Gurds

 

Hi John

I say leave the relay as it is supplying the Lambda sensor and injectors which if they short can pull a lot of current. It was only the two earths you need to change.

I have cleaned the ISV and it visibly clicks open and closed when the ignition is on or off but doesnt buzz. The factory stated resistance via the contacts is correct.

How does it work exactly and what does it tell the ECU?

 

Hi Gurds

Thats interesting. I have thought about it a bit and have a small duct in the grille that will deflect air to it but ultimately will run a hose from the offside spotlight in the grille or shroud the filter

Thanks for the suggestions - keep them coming.

 

`kin `eck that looks complicated.

The plug is the right one (I believe white and black) and it splits out out of the injector plug wiring so has to be the one. Also checked it back to the ECU.

The ISV clicks when the ignition is on and a piston (or something) moves back from the inlet that goes to the air filter. It clicks off when the ignition is off and the plunger returns.

I believe inside is a stepper motor so assume this controls the position of the plug but I still dont see how it controls the idle as it doesnt directly affect the main air inlet via throttle body so unless it enriches or reduces the amount of fuel I dont see what it does or how it works as it only allows air to bypass the throttle body for some reason which will fool the ECU by weakening the mixture surely?

 

Great to hear it's running now! I'd suggest fitting a proper oil pressure gauge, after all your hard work on the conversion.

With the ISV you should be able to feel it vibrate, even if you can't hear it. Try swapping a known good one from another car if you can (mk2 golf digi is the same ISV as early ABF I think), or soak it in petrol/paraffin, but NOT carb/brake cleaner solvent.

 

The isv bypasses the throttle body, because on idle the throttle is closed.. It regulates the amount of air needed for idle yeah?that's how I figure my kjet 1 works anyway...

 

Cheers Mike

I think I will fit one. I will be surprised if its low pressure but you never know

It could be that I have the two sensors wired the wrong way.

I soaked it in petrol and cleaned it out with electrical contact cleaner. It clicks but does not vibrate.

 

It should buzz/ vibrate. Maybe it's faulty.

 

Hi

I put the crankcase ventilation valve on as the hose was open ended and for some reason it seems to be ok although it still takes a second or two to drop from about 1500rpm

I replaced the vacuum hose from the FPR to manifold but it is still a bit sluggish in picking up from idle in that there is s slight hesitation - is this normal as I thought the manifold vacuum raises the fuel pressure briefly?

I snuck it out on the road and gave it some beans......................................

Superb, what a difference over the old 1.8 8v Driver engine.

Pulls like a train, bit of torque steer and a very very almost indiscernible gearbox whine but its fantastic fun.

My son had a couple of Mk1`s and this one was a project he bought but never went through with and he hasnt been in a Mk1 for a couple of years - he absolutely loved it.

Few more bits and bobs to do and then some track time.

Thanks one and all for the advice and encouragment, what a great forum this is.