Hey guys, not sure if this topic is better in here or track prep. I’m looking to possibly fit mk2 hubs to my mk1 to utilise the option of bigger outer cv joints to deal with power and grip. From what I have read this seems to produce a lot of negative camber which can be corrected with weld in style top mounts but In addition I’d like to run bolt in raised top mounts which won’t work properly with the mk2 hubs, right? I don’t really want to cut and shut the engine bay. The only option I can see to use the mk2 hubs with bolt in raised top mounts is to narrow the front track? I’ve been away from Mk1s for about 10years and just wondering if there’s any other options apart from raising the original strut towers
yes its been done, will require some work though. if you just want MK2/3 golf type CV joints, you can instead get post-84 mk1 cab/rocco/caddy bearing carriers these are modified for exactly this purpose as VW dropped all the MK1 CV joints in 1984. Plus they made them easy to ID also: if you wanted to go with mk2 anyway, you would need to grind down the top where they fit into the suspension struts as mk2 are chunkier here or use mk2 struts perhaps, mod the wishbones to take mk2 ball joints (easy enough) use mk2 golf manual steering track rods (mk1 a little short, plus IIRC you need the MK2 ends but not 100%) plus either ball joint or track rod end spacers because the steering arms kink right down on the MK2 carriers which messes up the geometry (bump steer) though, depending on your setup with raised top mounts this could work to your advantage.
people have machined the original bearing carriers to get the extra clearance, but this may weaken them a little which in your case probably not what you want to do. you could machine the cv joints instead, or sometimes they just fit seems to depend on manufacturer
Cheers for the reply. Ideally I’d be looking for the 5x100 cvs so I’d need the mk2/mk3 hubs. Fitting isn’t an issue but getting the correct geometry looks like it could be without going wild with the top mounts, I’ve read a few threads in the build section and they all seem to have massively adjustable top mounts, I won’t be able to do any sort of major adjustment with the bolt in raised top mounts.
ok so yeah you would need the mk3 hubs for that, which means mk2/3 type bearing carriers as the bearings are larger. then either weld and re-drill the hubs or go 5 stud. IIRc there might have been someone who makes mk1 hubs which can take the larger CV joints, I'll try to find them you dont have to mod your top mount fixings on the struts unless you wanted to raise them to allow lowering the car without impacting the springs too much, but I guess in your case you wont be going that low anyway. plus if you wanted to fit adjustable top mounts but for those you wouldn't need to make quite so may modifications depending on the ones you pick for just fitting mk2/3 bearing carriers main thing as I say ball joint/track rod spacer to correct the steering arm geometry, mk2 rod arms and mod them to fit mk1 struts/use mk2 struts piccy to show what I mean
I had some mk1 hub flanges made to accept VR6 cv joints but when I sent them to another company to have the splines cut and then hardened they lost one ♂️. If I’m honest there was very little material around the bearing part and it was far from ideal. I guess I’ll have to source some mk2 hubs and have a play around with some options. I don’t want to slam it but the raised top mounts were just to get some extra suspension travel back as the roads are shocking
yeah thinking about it you're reducing the amount of metal around the spline going that route... the 5 stud hubs will press into MK2 4 stud carriers no problem so long as you stay 4 stud no problem. the only potential issue is the 5 stud hub is larger outer diameter where the disc sits, so some 4 stud discs wont fit on it. but if youre having it welded and drilled just have the outside of it turned down to same diameter as the old mk2 4 stud hubs you press out of them
