She has fuel and a spark, i have carried out the following and come to make this statement. When I releive the controll pressure and then tighten the hose back up she almost starts but then doesnt. So any ideas? Engine turns but won't start 1)No fuel pressure; Test the fuel pump and pre-pump and do a fuel pressure and volume test. NEW FUEL PUMP FITTED, NO TEST CARRIED OUT THOUGH AS I DONT HAVE THE EQUIPMENT BUT THE EXHAUST STINKS OF FUEL WHEN I TRY START AND CONTROL PRESSURE HOSE JIZZ'S FUEL EVERYWHERE WHEN LOOSEND 2)Jammed and/or sticking airflow sensor; Remove the boot that goes to the intake and loosen the center line on fuel distributor.This will relieve the control pressure.Press down on the center bolt of the plate and you should feel no resistance or binding.Also check that the rest height and centering are correct. DONE, RESISTANCE IS AS LITTLE AS EXPECTED, ALMOST STARTED WHEN CONTROL PRESSURE WAS RE-CONNECTED 3)Auxillary valve is sticking; NEW ISV FITTED 4)Defective cold start injector; If the injector does not function,the air-fuel ratio will be lean,preventing easy start up. INJECTOR FUNCTIONING 5)Shorted or defective thermo time switch; The cold start injector will not work if the thermo time switch is defective.Check this in the event that your cold start injector does not function before replacing. 6)Control plunger sticking; Remove the fuel distributor from the airflow sensor and check to see if it moves freely. 7)Restricted injectors; For this to be the cause,they would have to be severely restricted,which is why I listed it last.Do an injector flow test and ensure that the delivery is near equal. FUEL IS GETTING THROUGH NO PROBLEM
Have you tried bump starting the car or just by turning it over by the key? Try disconnecting the blue plug and starting it as it may be flooding as i found with mine. I mentioned to stealth that if i don't catch it on the first turn of the key i have to disconnect the blue plug, they said this was quite common and to leave it disconnected and ziptied out of the way as its not really important - probably for are weather climate. another thing to check is remove a sparkplug after cranking to see if the top of the piston is soaked. Other than that i can't think of anything as i've not had mine for that long. Tim.
Just trying to start on key mate, dont really want to bump as I live on a massive hill and would be ****ed if she didnt start haha. Will try disconecting the 'blue plug'. I assume this is the cold start plug or somthing? EDIT: Just tried the blue plug thing, she started rev'd for about a second if that then cut out and wouldnt start again. Any more ideas??
Have you had it running previous and it just started doing this or has the engine been out etc? Another thing to try would be to loosen the two 10mm bolts on the dizzy, crank it over and get someone to turn the dizzy as the timing might be way out (i would probably leave the blue plug diconnected for now as it will probably flood when it cranks but does'nt fire). Is the timing belt timed up correctly by the markers on the crank and cam pulleys. Tim.
It was working fine, then starter literally fell off. Started a couple of times after then couldnt get started again so had to be recovered home. Since then i havent been able to get her started (new starter plus fuel pump as stated)
try swapping the 3 wires to te temp sensors on the side of the engine around, also make sure there are no air leaks, the over-run cutoff vlave loves to fall off the back and cause this. also pull the 2 pin plug off the valve see if that helps it might just be the idle and/or co screws are too far out of adjustment for it to start, in this case trial and error is needed
Right, unplugged blue plug and found as stated that the over run pipe had popped off. Struck straight up ran for 20 sec then cut out. Now it has thrown up the old problem. It blows the fuse to the fuel pump even though its 30amp which is alot more than it should be too. So, any ideas on that front?
You have a short on the fuel pump live wire most likely. Check it for damage to the insulation, it may be making contact to the body or an earth cable somewhere causing the high flow of current. You say you have a new pump, so it shouldn't be that, but a faulty pump could also cause the tripping
check out the wiring to the WUR, this uses the same feed as the fuel pump. if it looks ok, disconnect the plug to it and see if fuse still goes. make sure the lift pump is workign too, if not the main pump has to strain which could lead to it using enough power to pop the fuse, plus it will eventually die. pull the plug from the main pump and turn the key 1 click, you should hear in-tank pump prime
its the metal thing on the side o the head with 2 fuel lines going to it, the red/white wire is the pump live feed so check that hasnt shorted out anywhere
word of warning - check your oil to see how much petrol has entered the engine! i had a similar problem recently (faulty metering head) - the engine was flooded with petrol and if the engine had started the engine would have been destroyed - oil came out like water ! when i drained it completely full of petrol
