Hey guys, my engine used to hunt abit on idle and it seemed the camshaft static timing was out abit, so I thought I would redo it all. I would like confirmation this is correct please: Gearbox end, TDC timing mark setup Timing belt end, TDC timing mark set with intermidate shaft: Rotor arm pointing at spark plug 1: Camshaft timing mark lined up to the top of the head: I had tensioned it correctly, and was using the camshaft nut to turn the engine 360 degrees, but noticed the belt would slip. Should I be using the crankshaft nut to turn the engine and not the camshaft?? Thanks in advance.
yes. turning the engine over with the cam can put too much strain on the belt, and possibly damage it i think..
take the plugs out and its not a problem, not fighting against compression then. but if you can get a socket on the crank thats a better place to turn it over from. rotor arm looks in the wrong spot to me, there should be a notch in the edge of the dizzy thats where the rotor arm should point. however its going to be tricky to move it with the lower belt cover on, as loing as you put spark plug #1 where the rotor arm is pointing its not a problem, but you must use a timing light to get the ign timing spot on. oh and i never bother with the intermediate shaft marks, as they can be lined up mint but the rotor arm is still miles off thanks to dizzy not being fitted right! As above, as long as you get it close enough to start it doesnt particularly matter where rotor arm is, since you use the timing light to get it spot on anyway.
Yeah I can get a socket in the crank, I did take the plugs out but couldnt be bothered to mess around taking them off then on. I know the rotor arm looks like its in the wrong postion, but as you said it should matter as long as its pointing to plug 1. I have no idea why its in the wrong postion though - the dizzy will only fit in one way. My intermediate shaft wasnt lined up correctly before, but I thought I would do it properly this time around. I will be using the timing gun to get it spot on, hopefully this will sort out my hunting on idle. Thanks guys.
I always do it so the camshaft mark is aligned with rocker cover edge and the dizzy rotor arm is pointing bang on centre to the dizzy body notch. (the intermediate shaft marks are normally close to each other but perfectly aligned).
Mine (new from GSF 2 weeks ago) had one, it wasn't as defined as the one on the bosch dizzy though, more like the maker had used a screwdriver to mark the metal rather than cast in. It should be on the top rim of the body under the black plastic cover in your piccie.
the dizzy can be fitted anywhere you like, there is no locking tab or anything the actual dizzy looks to be about right, its just the rotor arm thats not in the factory location. if you wanted to move it round you can spin the oil pump to suit with a screwdriver. but as above, it doesnt really matter that much
Im sure when I fitted the dizzy, it had a flat screwdriver type tab so it could only fit in correctly or 180 degrees out. What is the correct factory direction the rotor arm should be pointing at? Moving the intermediate shaft changes the direction of the rotor arm, but then the intermediate timing marks dont line up.
maybe on the later 2.0 8v engines, but on earlier engien the dizzy MUST be able to spin, otherwise you cant set the ignition timing properly. factory it points towards the block, pretty much 90 degrees clockwise from that position. If there is no notch onthe dizzy its not worth worrying about though. If there was and you really cared the idea is to remove the dizzy, spin the rotor arm to point at the notch then spin the oil pump round to line up with the slot drive on dizzy. Then refit it, making sure the rotor arm stays lined up with the notch. Like I said it isnt worth bothering with the intermediate shaft marks, nothing worthwhile messing about with them its only the rotor arm location that is important.
Well thanks guys. I got the engine correctly timed up and tensioner tensioned. And on the 1st key turn it started fine. I set the ignition timing using the 18degree mark on the flywheel, and it drives alot better. Its smoother and doesnt hunt on idle. However I did notice while in 5th gear at 30mph, if I had try to hard accelerate, it sounds like the engine is pinking.
So change down to second, it works a lot better. Why would you try to accelerate hard from 30 in 5th?? Not very fair on your engine, is it?
I know I know. I guess thats normal then - thanks Pete. I also did notice abit of oil smoke out of the exhaust, lets hope it was a one off.
I'm very 'gear lazy' I often just accelearte in top gear when the speed limit increases from 30. The GTI responds very well, the driver changes gear for me .
Bit of a thread revival but found this was the nearest to what I was after. However...... Having taken the distributor out to realign, as per the instructions, an item that looks like the contact (that I recall from my MG days) fell out. I can't see where it has come from and am struggling to break the distributor down any further. Any suggestions? as having put the distributor back in it turns over but doesn't catch suggesting something is missing. Given that what came out must go in........ Ill sort some photos shortly The distributor The bits that fell out
might be part of the vacuum advance unit mech or weights advance? need to split it all apart to see really
To split it down further than this do you have to remove the screws in the side of the body or is there something else that needs taking off? The screws seem to be pretty stubborn
