And this is why I'm on the forum so I can get good advice from guys who have "been there, done that". I've taken everything on board thanks for the info everyone
I run a mixture of 4 pot calipers on my cars. All run 15's. (common tyres..) The AP's on 280's are the best, but not by much. price up the pads you want to use, as these are a consumable, and you will get tired of buying new sets. AP set is 125+V a pop, equivalent wilwood from about 75+V. And factor in regular fluid changes. Castrol SRF or equivalent. 40+V litre Another couple of considerations Jon
If you want to stick with 15's, the AP kit is definitely the way forward. I'm getting an AP 330mm 4 Pot kit made for my car and up-sizing to 17". I run less than 400bhp and feel I need that size, mostly for heat. My car's likely heavier though.
Heat, another good point. The 15's (AP's) get staggeringly hot at the end of a 15 mile stage, slowing a relatively heavy car, so spend as much time as possible getting your brake air ducting correct Jon
I run the Tarox 280mm MKII kit on my MK1 (It's got MKII 16V uprights) I'm very happy with the way they work. I'd previously run the Girling G60s which sort of sucked for weight, performance and pad knock off. I'm in Australia and there's a real shortage of suitable wheels here. I imported these Varrstoen wheels for the US they're 15x8 et0 and have an enormous amount of caliper clearance. Even with $300 to freight them in it's still cheaper than the domestic offerings which didn't fit any way. I had ordered a set of compomotive M05s made to suit but Compomotive went bust and kept my money. The Tarox brakes have no fading issues in my application and are consistent throughout my races. Pedal feel is rock hard all the time (OBP pedal box, no booster) I'm doing sprints though which aren't very long, but they are reasonably high speed for a MK1. Biggest braking issue for me at the moment is that the Tarox brakes stop working when the wheels leave the ground at 220km/h +
Biggest braking issue for me at the moment is that the Tarox brakes stop working when the wheels leave the ground at 220km/h + LOVE IT lol
You laugh, but have you ever flown a MK1 Golf? They don't make great aeroplanes! Trouble is at one of the tracks I race at, Phillip Island, gets a big wind blowing across the end of the straight and then you turn into it. Wind speed at it's worst can be 100km/h. So the MK1 can have an airspeed of 300km/h. At only 820kg gravity kinda stops working and you're hitting escape velocity. I'm thinking of fitting ailerons and elevators so I can buzz the control tower on the go 'round. Do Wilwood do air brakes?
Careful with that, the Febi discs pictured like that are not actually vented anymore. Work in a motor factors and ordered 3 different types of discs before finding ones with the vented hubs as lots are solid now When getting these make sure that they're Brake Engineering discs as they're the only ones in this application that I found to have the vented hubs like OE Walker
Just because it will have 500bhp does not mean it will be driven at 26501.9mph so you won't always need 8 pot monster callipers. Ultimately you will be limited by your tyre grip id imagine. Fwd can "handle" this sort of power with the correct sort of tyres & setup. e.g. road legal drag type tyre, boost by gear etc. CGTI is more of a circuit based forum IMO which is why you get the different views. I did a trackday at Bedford with my mk2 VRT several years ago on G60 brakes, springs/shocks no coilovers no uprated ARB and I had a great time still. Would the car have been faster with everything else uprated yes.... but you drive to what you have.
