I'm just about to order the eibach rear camber adjustment shims and i noticed they also do a front camber adjustment bolt - is this front bolt necessary as the struts on my new Bilstein B4 shocks are slightly slotted so surely you can just play about with the hub locating arm and strut then fully tighten the two strut bolts when you get to the desired camber. On my old scirocco the front strut bolts had an offset head or cam on them so a slight turn on the bolt head gave a corresponding movement in the strut location - i bought new camber adjustment/strut bolts for my mk2 golf from VW but they didn't come with any such offset head/cam, even though the bolts were listed on etka as the following: N 101 740 02 bolt, hex. hd. with shoulder for camber correction M12X1,5X58X25 Am i correct in thinking that these bolts come with the X25 shoulder prefix primarily because they are more of an interference fit in the strut and hub with the 25mm shoulder for correct camber alignment? The standard Strut bolt is listed on etka as the following: N 019 551 2 screw, hex. hd. M12X1,5X58 Any info gratefully received, And can somebody point me to pic online where it shows the rear camber shims fitted/being fitted or perhaps post a pic if you have one. I'm heading up to star performance in Kirkcaldy at the end of the month for a full 4 wheel alignment and dyno set up and i want to make sure i've got everything sorted by then. Cheers,
the 'shoulder' part just refers to the style of bolt head. its just got a thinner shank on the bolt to give you more adjustment than the std bolt. the mk1 bolts as you say are a different design with an offset bolt head to help you adjust the camber. afaik this will only work on a mk1 due to the design of the shock housing as it has a lip on it for the bolt to act on. are the eibachs similar to the EZ Shims? if so you need to mesure your camber/toe beforehand then dial in the correct adjustment camber and toe into the shims before you fit them. pretty simple really!
You can't just fit the rear camber shims before knowing what the existing measurements are - you can't assume that your rear wheels have zero toe or camber, so you'll need to get Star Performance to take the measurements first, then fit them for you. The parts of the shim you knock out are dependent on how much toe and camber you want as well as what the pre-adjustment measurements are. Pics for you from the car's recent visit to www.centergravity.co.uk To fit the shim, you need to remove the rear stub axle, then offer up the shim and carefully fit the bolts - best done with a helper! This pic shows the post fitting geo measurements - target 150' negative camber and target 010' toe-out.
Ahh, that makes sense now after examining the two different strut bolts and i'd completely forgot about the lip on the Bilstein struts as fitted to previous Scirocco, and cheers for the info regarding the rear camber shims as i thought they were adjustable on the car and i'd be able to fit them before hand to save time but hey-ho....learn summat new everyday etc..etc.. Cheers for quick reply - appreciated.
This is the lookup table for setting the camber and toe once you've taken the measurements. Dependent on the settings you want determines which areas of the shim you remove.
Cheers for the pics mook, when i replied earlier the pics weren't uploaded, they make the fitment a bit clearer - so i take it the plastic shim is left in place behind the stub axle, does torquing up the stub axle bolts not distort the plastic shim?, i'd have thought the addition of a plastic shim behind the mounting plate of the stub axle would lead to movement over time between the rear beam/stub axle mount or is this not the case?. How do i decide what is the best setting for general road use mixed between occasional A road but mostly B road and unclassified single track road use? (deepest darkest galloway), bearing in mind the B roads round here are generally fkin atrocious with off camber corners/multiple road surfaces and almost daily use over sketchy singletrack roads etc. Perhaps i'm asking too much out of my golf? - i should buy a series 1 landrover and take to the ditches instead.
The plastic shim stays in place - it won't crack, break or move over time as long as the stub axle bolts are torqued correctly. For a fast road set-up, I'd suggest neutral toe and 1 degree of camber.
