Hi. Im fitting electric windows to my mk2 3 door ce2. I have the following loom : There are two thin red wires. One going to and one coming from the inline fuse. There is the large red wire that i believe plugs into the busbar at rear of fusebix. There is a large brown earth with a spade connector that i believe plugs into the earth block. There is a small brown earth clamped to the spade of the big earth. The small brown earth is approximately 250mm long with a stripped end on it. From the relay block : there is a small yellow/black wire coming from it which is split into a Y. One end of the Y has a male spade on it and the other side of the Y has a female spade on it. Can anyone advise how to connect this up please? Thank you.
From the relay you should have a thick red to a thermal fuse, then a red from fuse to Y spade top of fusebox. There should be an earth as well possibly the cut brown tail? An output to the window switches, and an ignition live which is your black/yellow. The spade y piece you have means it's from a ce1 car, you'll have to cut the spades off and run the wire to the D plug. If you look back there you may find a spare black with empty plug on it, this is the one to use. The empty plug housing takes a junior/power timer pin so if you can crimp/splice one to the window loom you can pop it to the empty plug housing. Earth the brown, the bare tail is either for something else in the donor car or possibly the relay as above. Not sure what the 2 thin reds on fuse is about? Pics?
ah i see, you have an extra fuse clipped on top of the electric window one. you can unclip that and add to your stores, its just the relay holder and fuse with the thicker red wire to relay holder you need 53 relay will do for windows, or a 24. only issue I can see is the earth trigger for the relay has been pulled out of the terminal. So you'll need to pop the terminal out and repair, these take standard 6.3mm latched spades. To get the terminal out you'll need to poke something down the slot at the front to depress the latch, then use something to poke the terminal out. When trying to release the latch it can sometimes help to use something blunt in the back of the holder to push the terminal in the opposite direction, as if the wires been yanked out the latch sometimes will bite into the plastic and you cant then release it easily
I would assume so yep, certainly the earth trigger on the relay doesn't need to be chunky as it has no load on it when matching up a relay to the relay socket, the terminal numbers on relay go like so: 30 - red - permanent live 85/31 - brown - earth 86 - black/yellow - ignition live 87 - black/red - power to window switches
Ok. So i connected all as above. Electric window mechanisms are sitting in position (not bolted in) Windows are not working for some reason. At the tee shaped plug that connects to the motor, there is power on one spade and when electric window switch is pressed, the voltage value on the spade drops and you get 12v on the adjacent spade. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.
sounds right, did you check voltage across the 2 pins or just the live? as you should see earth on the opposite pin on the live to get the motor going. another simple test is jump the regulator plug directly with live and earth then the motor should move
Hi. Thanks for your reply. I checked both pins. One pin has 12v and when you press the electric window button, the other pin gets 12v while the first pin loses the 12v if i remember correctly. I will check bringing power directly to the motor. I dont hear the relay clicking either? Thanks.
relay must be working otherwise you wouldn't see any voltage at all, jump the motors direct next see if they actually work
Hi. Thanks for that. Yes windows work when wired directly to power and earth. I seem to have a bad connection somewhere. I put power directly to the yellow black and the windows worked. I then connected the yellow black back to plug D and they worked a few times. Now theyre not working again. I will keep looking. Cheers.
check fuses 4 and 14 depending which pin on D you used, give them a wiggle and check sockets for signs of corrosion or heat damage
I had same issue with electric life kit, wired to ignition live ass suggested originally and eventually popped the fuse as it used too many amps. easy fix though, run switch power feed thru a 4 terminal relay, as per my post above
ah mines just perm live so after a couple weeks of non use the battery is flat!, so i'll need to add a relay and link to ignition live
