Hi all can’t believe I’ve never been a member of this site my beloved mk2 is playing up I hardly use her at mo busy with work and stuff you know how it is she starts on first turn off key and drives without fault but as soon as up to temp seems to hold back Rev counter goes crazy will drive as long as you don’t push her if you give her more than 3000 rpm she splutters and holds back any ideas please I’m no we’re near a mechanic but I can do bits and bobs any help would be appreciated cheers neil
hello there Is the ABF engine running on 16v Kjet management or has it had the full ABF injection system fitted? If rev counter goes nuts this can point to hall sensor issue in the distributor but its best to check over all the basics before you spend any money
Hi rubjonny thanks for reply I bought car as is I presume it’s just standard it’s a mk3 gti 16 v engine in my mk2 its had new dizzy leads like I say she starts on button and runs great until hot then it seems to miss and hold back but still drives if you use low revs I spoke to my mechanic he said it might be a bad plug but I only changed them last year along with dizzy leads etc do you know things I could check it would be a great help mate cheers neil
have a look at my engine pics on the last page of my build thread, I've got the full digifant ABF managment: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.ph...bf-now-abf-management-widetrack.85893/page-12 does it look like that? or are there loads of metal fuel lines all over the place. if so its on kjet
It’s a kjet pal I’m sure it something or nothing if you have a process of elimination it would we appreciated mate
alright have a look here: https://clubgti.com/forums/index.ph...air-and-tune-your-mk2-corrado-1-8-16v.195423/ have a good look at the wiring to your distributor and condition of distributor itself. pop the cap, arm and dust cover off then you can see the hall sensor inside, see if theres any obvious damage or oil leakage. If cap/arm/leads/plugs not been done recent get a new set, bosh or beru make. I shop for bits like this from http://www.vwspares.co.uk usually. spark module also worth a check over, these are the same for all mk2 with electronic ignition so a good used spare isnt hard to get hold of
Hi all under further investigation I’ve found two split vac hoses would this cause the symptoms I’m described also we’re is best place to get a hose for a mk3 gti 16 v abf hose from air box to carb
do you mean the main hose from inlet manifold to airbox? post a pic of the engine as there are 2 versions of hose setup depending if its ce1 or ce2 donor car for the kjet bits
ok thats running the ABF management not kjet, the hose looks like a SEAT one. the airbox I think is VR6 corrado with a bit of tubing glued into it. as its on an ABF ecu you can plug it into diagnostics, assuming the port was wired in. have a look near the fusebox for it anyway a split in the hose from airbox to the throttle body wouldn't be a problem for the ECU, just means you're getting a bit of unfiltered air into it. they do pop up on ebay from time to time, the mk3 one is a little longer than the seat one but should still do you fine. if its only a small split can seal it up with tape in the short term. the wiring doesnt look the best, quite a few repairs are visible particularly the ones to the throttle switch on top dont look great, ideally pull the wirign loom off the engine back to the round plug near the starter. split it down and check end to end, if its cracked up top, its probably a mess round the back!
Hi mate I’ve had it plugged in and it shows no fault codes il try tape hose as it’s a small split car running fine on cold start but when choke turns off revs fluctuate and smells of petrol
next step get the ecu measuring b,locks read, this will show you all the ecu sensor inputs in real time so can highlight a sensor which is faulty but not in a way the ecu can flag (slightly duff coolant sensor reading colder than it should, etc)
could be worth a try, if you can get vagcom plugged in while its playing up you can check ecu voltage that will tell you if ecu relay is bad. crank sensor would be a suspect too, you can check engine rpm block to see the signal from that. have a look at it anyway, if the wire insulation or sensor itself is cracked then just replace it with a good quality part
Neil. On ABF cars that I have seen come into garages, the crank sensor can give those symptoms. You will often not log a fault code. Also I do not rate the plug leads you run. On cars that I have converted to aftermarket management, they can cause noise interference. I tend to use stock parts.
