Hmmm, carb icing - I totally forgot about that. Before I changed my manifold to a GTI one, my old warm air feed fell off. I know my airbox flap is working, however I havent got a pre-heater in front of the carb (my old one broke!!). Thats something for me to look into. I drove the car into work today, I noticed as the car was warming up, there was abit of smoke around the manifold, is this usual, or has my exhaust/manifold gasket gone?
if its not been on there long its probably burning off greasy handprints! carb icing would take a while to take effect, if its sluggish right off the bat when cold then its something else.
I thought it could be greasy handprints or WD40, but I've been driving it, so I thought it would have burned off by now. I guess I better get under there and have a good poke around. The car is sluggish from cold.
ive had this also when the coolant channel o'ring was weeping, but I guess you changed that while you were doign the zaust manifold. possibly a rocker cover oil leak?
Yes I changed the coolant o'ring. I went out for a spin, and my car seems to perform well if I gradually accelerate, but if I put my foot down, the car bogs down, and slowly accelerates. I've just been tinkering around at lunch, and noticed that while my car is idling, pulling back the lever pictured below (from what I understand is part of the accelerator pump and should make the fuel mixture richer). Pulling the lever back in my car does nothing at all. Could the accelerater pump be faulty? If so is this easy to do?
That lever operates the pump jet (accelerator pump) in turn with a wide open throttle. When operating by hand it will appear to do nothing unless you look in the right place. Look down the top of the carb on the front barrel (the one with the choke flap). You will see a stub sticking into the barrel about 1/4 of the way down. When you operate the lever a good strong stream of fuel should shoot of its end.
It won't do anything in terms of raising the revs from idle, if you just operate the pump without changing the angle of the throttle. In fact, once when I was playing about with my 2e2 (as one does ) I tried this and the engine cut out. Too rich a mixture, without the air to go with it, doesn't make an engine go faster. Much too rich can even stop it!
I remember playing around with my carb ages ago and noticed the same think. Mixture got rich, and the revs dropped. However yesterday when I operated the lever, nothing happened. I expected the revs to drop or the car to cut out.
Yeah I thought it would be a good idea to put a inline fuse, but then I ended up breaking the pre-heater.[:^(] I'll have to hunt around for one once the car is working, a new one from VW (if they still sell them) is 25ish!!
It was about 30 when I bought mine. So have you looked to see if the pump jet is pumping fuel? A new one doesn't cost much and is easy to fit, but you'll need to buy/make a new carb main gasket.
No I havent looked yet, I didnt drive the golf into work today. I'll have to check tonight when I get home. Where do I buy a new pump if my is shot, and is replacing it a matter of undoing the 4 screws on the front of the carb, or is there more it than that?
The pump jet is the bit you can see when you look down the top of the carb, how to change and where to buy is here. Behind the four screws is the operating mechanism, this basically consists of a ball bearing, a spring and a diaphragm. A new diaphragm is included in the DMTL carb rebuild kit available from www.fastroadcars.com.
That is the accelerator pump diaphragm which could be knackered. This would cause the problem you describe as when you accelerate this adds a little fuel to smooth the acceleration. Pulling the sharply lever should make the revs increase momentarily. If you rev up slowly the accelerator pump doesn't do anything (because there's no need to momentarily correct the fuel/air mix). Is the car smoother under gentle accleration?
Yes the car is smooth when gently accelerating. It gets jerky and seems like its misfiring when I accelerate hard. I'll get the weber rebuild get ordered.
the symptoms def sound like carb icing. I think I have this prob too - cutting out at junctions when engine is hot (not every time though!); also the other day I almost couldn't get up a steep hill, the engine almost stalled. I recently did work on the carburettor (2e2) and left a gap in the warm air intake pipe so this may have been it. I have now wrapped some duct tape around the join. The other poss, which I have yet to check, is that the air flap is sticking. Not wanting to cause confusion, but a few years ago I seem to remember having a similar cutting-out fault which was solved by fitting a new (mechanical) fuel pump. The diaghragm had perished priobably lowering pumping capacity. Good luck!
Hesitance I had this problem. This might be worth a try. If you take off the airbox and run the engine, look down into the primary port. When you touch the throttle, there should be an instant jet of fuel coming from the throttle nozzle. The more throttle, the stronger the jet. Also, it should not drip on idle. Sorry, It was late last night when I left this message. I thought you were talking about the 2E2 carb.
Sorry about the two messages. When I tried to send it the first time there was an error and my message disappeared, so I wrote it again. Now there's two!
Hey guys, Just a quick update: I brought the weber rebuild kit & fitted it. The old accelerator pump diaphram seemed fine, but I replaced it anyway. The car seems abit better, but it still seems abit hesistant - although (same as before) if I gently accelerate its fine.
