Hi all, i am currently redoing the rear wiring on my MK2. as of now, the fuel pump live wire has been routed to the power coil. How would i wire this the proper way? for now all i can see is that the internal and external fuel pump + have to be wired to pin 14 on the black connector. What else do i have to re-wire to get the fuel pump relay on position 2 to work? do i need to change any other looms aswell? I made a rather poor illustration in paint, hope it makes it more clear https://imgur.com/a/3d3L61O thanks in advance.
originally its wired to the fusebox rear loom, powered by a relay 67/80/167. what fusebox is it you have?
Hi Jonny, I have a CE1 fusebox. relay 80 is in position 2. Pin 14 in the rear wire loom was empty, i have added 2 yellow/red wires (live +) to pin 14 for both the pump in the tank and the pump underneath the car.
thats perfect yep for a KR you would also have another male spade out of the back of E/14 which then has a wire in the engine loom plugged into it off to the WUR, assuming you have one. then the 16v ecu has a red/yellow wire to D/13 on the fusebox which triggers the 67/80/167 type relay if you dont have the trigger wire you can use a kjet 8v relay instead, get the type without a rev limiter as your ecu will handle that. VW relay number / VW part number / kraker / kae / GSF: 2 or 63 = 321906059F / 24.1400.20 / KAE 3.300.210 / 935VG0090
I have found the red/yellow wire to D/13. I wasn’t able to find the wire coming from the WUR, I’m assuming it’s a single red/white wire. My loom has been butchered pretty badly which doesn’t help. Ill either bypass it using the relay you mentioned or I will make a new wire coming from the WUR. I also found the following connectors hidden behind the carpet and I was curious if you know where these go One is a 2x brown/white wire that goes into a spade, its linked to the VDO 244 unit. Im guessing this is an import one. The other is a single red/black wire with a yellow protective cap coming from the engine bay. https://imgur.com/a/jZUv6O8
Yes single red/white wire with female spade near the fusebox coming in with the engine loom. Should be with those other 2 wires you found The brown/white is an earth connection for the original MFA clocks, if you don't have those it can be ignored Red/black will be the cranking live for the 5th injector thermo time switch, it's not a huge deal the worst that can happen is engine gets flooded by the 5th injector if for whatever reason the engine cranks for too long without start when stone cold. The engine heat will disable the tts pretty quick once started
Alright i think im nearly there, learning a lot here . The red/white wire has broken and is currently somewhere within the main loom, ill have to pull the loom and cut it open but i think that should do the trick. Regarding the red/black wire, where would this connector hook up to? im not seeing a female red/black spade so im assuming that one has been cut aswell.
The mating plug for the red/black is on your headlight loom yellow plug, usually it's always there but sometimes VW didn't fit it. It's pin C/18, or you can just splice it to the main starter motor solenoid red/black
Turns out it was a combination of problems, ill write it down if anyone ever encounters this issue. So, first off i had no continuity to the rear fuel pump. the red/yellow and earth wire were both melted inside the loom. After fixing the wire i had continuity but still no 12v. I used relay 18 in position 2 of the of the fusebox and both pumps started working. so the rear wiring and fusebox side were fine. After this i traced the trigger wire, the yellow/red going to the engine bay. no continuity towards the ECU. Cleaned off the corrosion and now i had continuity yet still no 12v. For a long time i couldnt figure out why i didnt get 12v, i had wired everything correctly and all the wires were fixed. As it turns out, my ignition coil was somehow not making earth on 2 of the spades. I swapped the ground cable for the ECU to the one working spade and now my fuel pump primes when ignition is on. Replaced the coil and everything is working as it should now.
