Yep, as above you need to run through basic settings everytime you disconnect the battery so you will need the diag port for this... If it's that bad though it maybe sounds like the Cam sensor is down, if there is no signal from this then the injection changes to batch and you drop around 30 bhp.
I've got the diagnostic port wired up now but vag-com gives me no codes. It gives me '00281 speed sensor' if the cars not running which is normal and it also gave me '00553 MAF G70 short to ground after I drove it with the MAF disconnected. I think it was a bit quicker with that off but could say for sure, at first it wouldn't idle with it unplugged but after a few minutes driving it would idle. I'll clean the MAF if its that easy and then Haysey said he can do some data logging on vag-com to see if anything else is a miss.
I'd love to take it to Daz but I dont want to drive it too far as it is. Today I cleaned the throttle body. It was minging. I also cleaned the inlet pipe as pictured. Whats the connector i've got arrowed? The plug that goes onto it has 2 wires that look a bit tired but the connector itself looks like a blank. Any ideas?
It must be good then. Vag-Com came up with speed sensor which is right if the cars not running and it came up with a MAF fault when I driove it with the MAF unplugged.
Do you mean see if it says 90degrees on Vag Com or just by pressing the peddle and looking in the throttle body? Here is says 10deg I'll do that over the weekend, its behind the coilpack isn't it?, should that also trigger its fault code on vag com?
Was just thinking out loud really ref cam sensor, yep nr coil pack, worth a try to see what happens. Get someone to press the throttle and see if it can be opened further at the TB. Cable may need adjusting
I've put the TB back on and it seems miles better. I took it for a decent run and gave it a good blast, I think i'll try some injector cleaner next time I fill it up and let it loose on the motorway. Can vag com work of power and torque?
Don't know on OBDI but on the later post 95 as mine is, you can get the MAF reading in g/s and then divide by 0.8 to give a rough idea of power - it's group 2 measuring blocks on OBD II Mine does 170 g/s @ 6500rpm (212bhp) it has done 215 @ Stealth... This is a good test imo, I did Claire's Revo'd Edition 30 and it equated to 282 bhp, it did 278bhp on a DynoDynamics RR!
Got mine on the road today and got the same feeling Think mine needs a good blast and injector cleaning but mine's definately sluggish.
plug on the inlet pipe i bet is oil breather heater, 16v has the same blanked off plug here as the actual heater is only fitted on cars in cold climates. the wiring for them is always part of the loom so they put this blank on to stop it hanging and getting caught up the wires are brown and black yes?
I had a fuel issue today after filling up till the tank was full. I found this: Which I think was caused by this rubber being out of place: Would that throw up this fault code: 00561 - Mixture Adaptation: Adaptation Limit http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/00561 My other fault codes were: 00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68) 00540 - Knock Sensor #2, G66 00561 - Mixture Adaptation: Adaptation Limit 00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 00540 is not on the ross tech wiki site but I found this: 00540 Knock Sensor #2, G66 -High fuel consumption -Poor performance -Boost pressure is not reached
My update; after some good old optimax and some good blasts the VR6 seems to be getting a lot better and pulling stronger. Also not as smokey any more as I think where it has sat for a while it was smoking a bit, but fresh oil and plugs seem to have worked fine. I'm sure mine's not running 100% but its a dam site quicker than the mk4
