aye those are all i could find scanning across all the various diagrams in elsa as for some reason the main basic equipment one isnt in there!
Well that didnt work... Got a twitch out the speedo needle but i'm guessing the 12v 12w transformer i'm using isnt powerfull enough? Edit: btw conections used are.. T26a/4 pos T26/9 pos T26/18 neg
Seems ohms law shows i need 240 watt for both supplies but looking here..http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ng-diagram-for-3-plugs-for-instrument-cluster It seems i only need term 15 n 31. So term 15 only being a 5 amp supply i might jst get away with it on my 60watt tranny... itching to try but stook at work till late
I use an old PC power supply for this kind of thing, you may need a couple extra wires as the audi link you posted up shows it has 2x live and 2x ignition feeds?
Think i have an old laptop will see if i can use that psu Will have a play tomorrow... The pin list are all different to mine but the outputs will be the same, reading up it seems term 15, 30, 31 seem to do the same job in various cars. In the audi post it seems 3 of there pins go to terminal 31 and by the looks of it my clocks only have one pin for 31.. Little thing like this caused quite a head ache... might know what i'm doing soon tho!? lol
Managed to get some lights working and some beeps with a 19v laptop charger, lcd looks fubard tho off back to work will try have a play later..conections where term 15 n 31 used ie blue pin 4 and yellow pin 18.. Had a quick try on pin 1 pin 9 and pin 26 with second live but no joy..
Had another little play before coming back to work trying verious pins and the obvious one i must of overlooked in your pin output T26a/19 but still no joy I did get the blue main beam warning light to come on.. So that leaves me to assume still under powering? This 19v trany is only giving out 3.5A which is about 66W Hopefully this is why the lcd didnt fully illuminate also? To be continued! Haaa
1St thing bored at work last night managed to get that pdf diagram printable Snap shot on my phone for every page.. But in the procces of doing this i noticed a dimmer incorporated into the cluster.. So looking into this it seems the left knob coming from the clocks is for dimming.. And aperntly can be dimmed totally off so was hopping something as stupid as that was the prob..... Nope! So had all the orange lamps out today.. They all work.. So then went for plan 'z' n just stick a 12 supply straight to the lmps in situ n finally got them on.. Whoopa So something i've been pondering was if both right n left light feeds are needed (pin 13 n26) tried it knowing they all work now and guess what.... But after all this them blue leds dont work i got them to light up in the board but the clock faces has like a red backing which gives the color n stop the blue coming through.. so plan z.1 coming up, which will probably be diferent clocks... just like you said in the 1st place i'm jst a sucker for punishment lol
Well still not got this loom out yet but been digging somewhat.. Also come up with a schmatic of sorts to help give me an idea of the relationship between things in the electrical system.. Let me know if anything looks wrong or i've missed something obvious.. So what i really posted for... knowladge on ecu's Been digging myself. N got some q's.. My ecu is 8d0 907 557 t which is a me3.8.2 i think.. Which as you prob no is pretty useless, cant flash cant read.. Not 100% what this means but basically cant remap... Also seems i cant find the key from my donnar so imobalizer's gonna have to be defeted, however i do that.. Some options i've kind of sussed but need to whittle it down to one.. 1/North American ecu 557p or n no imbalizer but same prob reading flashing.. 2/defeat the imobalizer one way or another and go old school with an actual chip upgrade in ecu.. Apr, giac or neuspeed not sure if theres others? 3/Up grade this ecu to something better ie me7.5, can this even be done diferent plugs i asume. also read the me7.5 is dbw not dbc which i dont really want to convert to dbw. 4/I read theres a me7.5 but dbc called mp7.2 its on french things.. Exactly the same motronic control inside just dbc instead of dbw... P 5/Then obviously the megasquirt standalone.. Not fully sussed out which one to use, done that much reading my gray matter is strugaling to keep track lol but what would be the main things to consider? Does it need to be piggy backed on my me3.8 ecu? I always was planning on going ms but jst making sure thats the best desicion.. Obviously cost is a factor.. With the tumed chip i guess its jst a one of payment then solder in place and hay presto.. With the me7.5/mp7.2 if its posible will have the cost of ecu then defeat then whtever else to install then rolling road mapping.. Ms diy kit then map myself? When i eventually get the car ready to start up if i go ms is there base settings which will start but run not perfect? 'ME' ecu's if i find the key and get the imobalizer up n working will it still start/run on me3.8 with upgrades such as k04, FMIC, bigger injectors 440cc or even 470cc vxr injectors prob some other bits i 'm not aware i've done.. Sorry for going on jst need to suss which direction am going regrds ecu then put all my effort into sussing that way.. Any advice on the matter would be much apreciated
I beleive its a case of open the ecu for direct flashing on the early ones, but I'm no expert at mapping! for immob it may be liek mk3 if you get a matched chip n box just code your ecu to it in vagcom. or you may be able to pull skc out of your box with vagtacho for coding another chip? to remove it i would say it same deal as for agu, send it off to be defeated to a man with a big beard. 7.x upgrade would require another wiring loom, ecu plugs all differ. plus dbw pedal, various sensors diffo etc late agu can be mapped over diagnostics, if you have the know how. worth a think, loom will prob be usable with slight mods, most sensors etc. standalone woudl completely replace your ecu, and you chop up the car loom to remove the sensor ends to tap onto your standalone ecu loom. you can keep the ecu loom seperate with its own power/fuel relays, or integrate it to the car loom fully. your call there. if your long term goal is mapping then I would just go standalone now, with all your mods the stock ecu isnt gonna work. in my book no point spending out for a remap twice ask a man with a big beard to supply a base map suited for your mods, then fettle it till the car starts and runs well enough for a careful drive to your tame mapping expert.
Man with a beard? Eddie? Toyotec.. Read some good stuff regarding ecu's and MS by him.. Messing with maps all sounds abit daunting at the minute thats why i was thinking chip the ecu might be a good option plus keeping knock etc.. Will gather some more info on it all but at least witled it down to 2 options already thanx
