mk3 GTi Window Regulator: 3rd party to OEM

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by Vecchio, Feb 28, 2020.

  1. Vecchio New Member

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    Feb 25, 2020
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    Hi chaps

    I have a Golf GTi mk3.

    The driver side window regulator broke.

    Taking it out I saw it was 3rd party.

    It had a two-pin connection (see link below) and the mechanic had changed the original wiring (from the switch to the motor) to match it:

    [​IMG]

    I managed to find a used OEM regulator w/ motor but the problem is that the OEM has a multi-pin connector so I purchased the connector as well.

    [​IMG]

    I put the OEM on, and connected the two wires that were going to the third party regulator (+ and GND), to the brown and red/yellow cables of the OEM connector.

    It didn't work.

    There are 5 smaller cables on the multi-pin connector that are now going nowhere. Does it matter? Shouldn't it be working with just the + and the - (or GND)?
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Bracknell
    original has a control module which looks after total closure, obstruction detection etc. aftermarket was just a dumb motor, if the car did originally have smart motors all round there would have been a fair bit of modification to the wiring to get it all going, and you cant just jump the regulator main pins get it moving either, these are just 12v and earth not 'up' and 'down' for the window to move it needs to see input from the window switches on the original pins to the control board. If you pulled all of the control board out and jumped the motor with the original wiring form the door switch then it would work though.

    if you want to get it all working as per factory then you can see the wiring diagrams in my signature link 'g3elwindows...pdf' or it may be easier to get hold of a complete electric window loom if its all been totally butchered to get the wrong motor to fit...

    if its just the loom in the door which has been hacked up you can just replace that section it unplugs at the door pillar
     
  3. Vecchio New Member

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    Hi Rubjonny

    First of all, thank you for your quick reply and the amazing work you did with the diagrams repository. If you don't mind, I may download some more diagrams for future reference.

    So, I am looking at the following options:
    1. Redoing the wiring, at least up to the door - This has been modified a lot although I do not know how far the modifications have gone. This needs a lot of work.
    2. Bypassing the control board in the motor - This seems simpler and it's more probable to work.
    3. Can I short circuit any of the 5 smaller cables that are going out of the original connector? Or send them to the switch? Are there any "suspects" that prevent the motor from running?
    Right now I have:
    Black/Yellow
    Grey/Red
    Green/Red
    Red/White
    Brown/Yellow

    From the diagram I am seeing that:
    Grey/Red and Green/Red should go to the central locking switch (which my car is not equipped with)

    I am not knowledgeable enough to understand where the Black/Yellow should go after the pillar, or the Red/White and Brown/Yellow
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2020
  4. Dougie Paid Member Paid Member

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    Jan 5, 2007
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    Location:
    Port Talbot
    I'm puzzled by a Gti not having central locking, but I think that even without it the Grey-red and Green-red are used to open/close the o.e. elec. windows using the external key lock.

    The Black-yellow is a line used to 'wake' the control pcb when the ignition is On, and enable the '1-touch' feature(s). Designated '15' on diagrams

    Red-white I'm not sure of; the central locking would use it as a 12v supply for its control switch. My recollection is a White-red wire from the drivers' side half of the dual window switch (pin 2 of the switch) to the window reg. pcb, for Up/Down of the drivers side window

    Brown-yellow is the safety shut-off wire; with the ignition Off, opening the door shuts down the motor pcb. It times out of its own accord, but opening the door curtails this by switching Brown-yellow to ground via the courtesy light switch
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Location:
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    yes it'll be the white/red for the window switch output to the regulator I expect, it's either 12v or earth depending on switch position.

    driver door regulator:
    1 - brown - earth
    2 - black/green - connection for convenience system
    5 - brown/white - door closed switch
    7 - black/yellow - ignition live
    8 - green/red - door lock switch (unlock)
    11 - white/red - signal from window switch
    14 - grey/red - door lock switch (lock)
    15 - red/yellow - permanent live

    driver window switch:
    1 - grey/green - illumination
    2 - white/red - signal to drivers door regulator
    3 - red/yellow - permanent live for switch function
    4 - brown - earth for switch function
    5 - brown/blue - signal to passenger door regulator
    6 - brown - earth for bulb

    passenger regulator
    1 - brown - earth
    2 - black/green - connection for convenience system (total closure)
    3 - green/white - signal from window switch in passenger door
    5 - brown/white - door closed switch
    7 - black/yellow - ignition live
    8 - grey/red - door lock switch (lock)
    11 - brown/blue - signal from window switch in drivers door
    14 - green/red - door lock switch (unlock)
    15 - red/yellow - permanent live

    passenger window switch
    1 - grey/green - illumination
    3 - red/yellow - permanent live for switch function
    4 - brown - earth for switch function
    5 - green/white - signal to passenger door regulator
    6 - brown - earth for bulb
     

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