Hi Justin. I am not into long life services. We bought the car at 135,000 miles and I changed the oil straight away. The stuff that came out was like black treacle! The inside of the head is full of hard black bits! Can't imagine what the previous owners put in? I have changed the oil again at 140,000 and 145,000!
Basically everything, leaving just the block, with crank, rods and pistons, left in the car. All oil pipes, filter bracket, etc., are off.
Ta so Justin, but except for an exhaust manifold I have sourced everything. I bought a 2nd hand head off ebay, which is hopefully on its way?
Valve Spring Compressor Manufactured There is a vast amount of hard carbon in the cylinder head and cover. The pump pick-up pipe filter is about 90% blocked. The exhaust camshaft bearings are destroyed as the oil gallery is completely blocked. That is why the exhaust tappets are still in the head as the aluminum is spalled over! Used, un-cracked, ex. manifold on its way from Germany. Had to make this as no way am I fitting a head without changing the valve stem oil seats! The two bar holes allow for the different angles of the inlet valves. The bar is an old Elora " drive extension. Tapping it was really hard as the steel is tough even after I heated to red-heat and slow-cooled! I even made the hex key spinner.
dave that tool is a work of art! I really, really need to put some more time into our Bora. I think it still has a boost leak and the oil leak isnt going to fix itself, though saying that it does seem to be leaking a little less somehow? (yes there is oil in it ) Couple design faults I've had to deal with is silly routing of starter wiring which puts stress on the plug end, so snapped and rear window reg clip design. What a pain!
First up. A neighbour brought me to the dealers today to collect the rest of the parts I need and exchange the new turbo for another undamaged one! Of the new parts some were obviously wrong, but worst still, the head gasket was damaged and they had not noticed! Further more, it was obvious, from the weight of the box that there were no head bolts! I am already in the middle of a big confab with the workshop supervisor about the fact that their idiot mechanic re-fitted the off-side wheel and the bolts were tightened to over 250 Nm. I told him that I don't think paying 80/hour for, supposedly, 'expert' work is reflected in their mechanic's incompetence! I had similar problems with another Irish VAG dealer some years ago. This time they had done work on the Audi 100, I was ill at the time so could not do it myself. On the invoice they tried to charge for a pert that I knew was VW not Audi,the cam belt tensioner pulley. So, I took of the cam belt cover, plastic and held on with a couple of clips, and showed them that it was obviously not a new part. Quite grubby. I refused to pay and drove the car away, having replaced the cover! They did not ask me to pay for 6 months, and then reduced the bill by 50%. I paid them 6 months later. I have, in the past, employed a solicitor, who owes me big time. This, because he c0cked up badly with the bank, regarding our mortgage. So badly, that he has never sent me a final invoice! So he may be crap, but he will have to sort any problems, out or I shall report him! So. I picked up the replacement turbo, having checked that it was OK, together with the box of parts, sans head gasket, and said, that I would take them home to check what was awry, without paying! The spares guy was a new man but agreed it was OK as the spares manager had told him that I would probably not be very happy, and to look after me! I ar' made: A tool to hold the crankshaft pulley for removal of the bolt. I made the head removable so that I can made different heads for other locking jobs. I also made a slide hammer for removing the valve guide seals. The sliding hammer is actually the special socket for removing the Audi 100 front strut inserts from under the bonnet! My design is far superior the the VAG tool. The VAG tool fits around the guide and under the seal. So, the seal could fall into the gallery. My design fits around the seals under the ridge near the top of the seal's steel body. The seals are gripped and come out with the tool. No way I want to trying to get seals out of the galleries in the head.
Help - i need new auq head asap I have already posted this in the 'WANTED' section. Hi Folks. I need a new AUQ head fror Elaine's Mk4 GTI 25J. I bought one on ebay only to find it is scrap. The head is warped, but cannot be skimmed as it has already been skimmed to minimum permitted by VAG. Dave.
It gets scarier every time I work on parts of the car replaced by previous owners. Yesterday I removed the driver's side front wheel. I want better access to the oil pump chain housing. I also needed to replace the bushes, I should have done it months ago, as they are really shot! I have never seen such ripped apart bushes Now. The previous owner admitted that he had put a new 'aftermarket' wishbone on. If you saw the dent in one of the wheels you would understand why. When I came to removing the drop link I found the bolt uber difficult to remove. It was cross-threaded. Helicoil time then. Even worse the 3 bolts retaining the suspension ball joint were even more problematical and 'scary'! One was OK. It was tight enough and came out easily. The next was uber tight and took real effort to remove. This, of course was also cross-threaded. The last one was the 'scary' one. It was LOOSE and turned easily at first and then it jammed solid. I got it off by levering under the head whilst turning it. Very little thread left on the bolt. Of course these things were not VAG. Wrong bolt: End not reduced in diameter. Wrong nut-plate. No VAG Markings. I recon that the ball joint is original as I doubt the previous owner would have had a ball joint spliter!?
Working on modern cars is bad enough. Everything seems inaccessible, then you get cowboy work you have to put right.
Mk4 - Easy Headlight Bulb Change! I bought new bulbs last Autumn but found it impossible to change them with the headlights in the car. Much worse than the near-side bulbs on a Mk3 VR6! I decided, at the time, that the best way was to remove the front end. The weather never permitted it, until now, and I had to strip it anyway for better access. Turns out that the accident which caused a new crappy wishbone to be fitted also broke the plastic headlight mountings and a plastic air scoop. Plus the dinged bumper bar! I have purchased some Ever-Build 'SUPA-FIX' (20) and hope it will do the job!?
New Oil Pump & Drive Fitted + Thermostat + Re-Furbished Oil Filter Bracket I find it difficult, since my prostrate treatment, in 2014, to work under the cars. There are some internal problems, due by the isotope treatment, which cause nausea and dizziness when I lie under the car. That's why I stopped working on our cars and why the 25J has been going to the dealers. I have had a few internal examinations, with cameras suck in most orifices of my body, and it is getting better. I now find that I don't actually projectile vomit any more! So. At last it is going back together! Loctite 'Blue' and correct torque for all bolts, of course! The dealer's VAGCOM had shown thermostat problems so it was a good opportunity to fit a new one. Alternator off to do it. The oil filter housing was completely stripped and cleaned out. New seals, oil pressure switch and bolts. Did you know that when you fit the water/oil cooler you should run sealant around the top face where it sits against the filter bracket? New Pump and Drive fitted. Chain soaked in oil and the pump has oil in it! Some ran out, of course, when I mounted it Hoping to fit the pump drive housing and sump today. Not looking forward to the job for a couple of reasons: #1 - I hate running beads of gasket seal as my hands are not so steady these days! So I will be unhappy with the bead shape! #2 - It's hissing it down at the moment. #3 - The nausea!
You should have seen the half-a-dozen, or so, I trashed! We really need a new digital camera. Trouble is that everyone we have owned has gone 'pink-screen'! We need one that is 'pink-screen' proof and can send e-mails! If such a one does exist then I am sure it will be too expensive!? (Although I am extremely grateful for all of the free cameras that CGTI friends have sent me in the past, please don't offer me any more as I have problems up-loading to my ancient Apple laptop. The ancient Ipad is only any use because I can e-mail the images!)
Sump on at last after big problems! Well, after 4 days, I at last managed to fit the sump and oil pump drive housing. Big problems were that as I was cleaning the block face and threads I found that the threads of the rear hole nearest the stupid dual-mass flywheel were damaged! The lower 3 threads were squashed on the side nearest the flywheel, and no way was a bolt going to go in without stripping the threads! For those who don't know, getting to these bolts is uber difficult as the concave surface of the flywheel restricts access. There is a groove which helps a little if one lines it up with the holes. It is obvious that the bolt was forced out at angle and the rounded end caused the thread damage as there is a corresponding deformation in the hole in the sump I am sure that the dealer's idiot mechanic caused the damage because: #1 - One bolt head had the corners of the hex. rounded off, and the rounding was shiny bright not corroded. (I clean bolts in an ultrasonic tank with de-greasing fluid so no way would corrosion have come off) #2 - The damage to the sandwich plate was shiny bright not corroded. #3 - If a previous owner had done the damage the thread would have stripped going in and as noted above, the damage would have already corroded to some extent. The dealers refused to accept responsibility. They even had the audacity to blame me, although they had actually removed the sump not I! They blamed a previous owner even though I pointed out, as above that it was infeasible that the damage was old. The workshop manager then spoke to the bodger who did the job, (probably the same idiot who put the wheel back with an impact wrench and it needed a 3/4" breaker bar to loosen them) who said he had not caused damage and had used the correct tool. I asked the guy the part number of the tool, I know it, but he said he would have to come back on that. Yeah, after he had checked on ERWIN!? (They did not even have the correct tool for opening the slot in the front uprights and I loaned them mine and then made them one as well!) Anyways-up! I sorted it. Sump and cover plate fitted. Bloody stupid sealant might be OK for robots to apply, but old farts like me will shaky hands don't find it so easy. One presumes that proper gaskets are too expensive for the factory!? Luckily I have loads o' spare 020 clutch bolts lying around so I made these! The split one was squeezed and entered up to the good threads. Then released and turned backwards to cut down, and not up, which might cut across good threads. On the reduced end I left just a small amount of thread so the tool would find the good threads and be guided squarely in the hole. I did this a few times until no aluminium came out in the slot. The solid one was then used to chase up, carefully with fingers only + lubrication, to the original thread.
Bent and Cracked Valves - But no piston damaged!? I put together this rig to check for bent valves. I made the vices, the drill angle gauge, and round 'bashing' block in 1966/67 when an apprentice. (Must strip them and blast clean! Trouble is the cap screws are BSW and I don't own any Imperial Allen keys now! I will have to get the diamond files out and modify some spare metric ones!) The DTI was donated to me by a very kind member of CGTI! ( Can't remember who now as it was years ago. May have been Justin? Anyways up TA SO!) I found 2 very bent exhaust valves. You can see the band by eye anyway! And this cracked valve!? I also found just 2 bent inlet valves. Should there not be 3 one wonders? Without the test jig these would have been difficult to find as the bends were small. About 15 thou. = 400 micron, or so, run-out. But, there is an obvious scuff mark just below the collet grooves where they have been caught by the edge of the valve guide. So, I looked for similar marks on other valves but could find none. Hopefully the head from Carey will have 4 good valves to replace these?
