hey guys, this weekend has been a set back regarding MS, rebuilding the car back up,i feed ms 12v ignition from the rear fuse box pins like before. All was fine, ms powered up, ran laptop and was getting engine data feedback on sensors, CLT was a little sketchy -40,-20, so was looing into that whilst viewing live data . After turning ignition on a off over a coarse of 15 mins maybe, i lost comms with MS. Found it keeped blowing the 12v feed fuse to MS. Couldn't work out what was pulling a load. I think later on i discovered the coil was wired incorrect, so maybe this caused the spike ?,. i swapped the coil wiring over, and still MS is pooping fuses. I opened up the ECU and nothing was obvious ... later on i noticed heat/melting plastic under the CPU, the top section is fine, the bottom part has melted plastic, im unsure if this would cause an issue as to me it looks more abase for the cpu to slot into. I keep that in mind... but carried on with investigation , Megamanual highlighted to test the voltage regulator U5 .... heres the instruction Use an Ohmmeter (digital multi-meter set on resistance) to check the resistance between the three voltage regulator holes. The voltage regulator is U5, near the DB9 connector in the top left side of the board (on the heat sink). The resistance between any two of these three holes should be infinite. If it is not, contact the supplier you bought the kit from. (This test ensures that the 12 Volt supply, 5 Volt internal supply, and ground are not shorted together.) So i did this once i removed the regulator as i thought that was blown as i had readings across the terminals, now with the regulator removed, and still reading resistance and continuity across all 3 terminals, would this suggest something else is shorting on the board ? and if so which direction should i trace this short next ? ... getting lost a little at the mo and thinking its new ECU time, and little cash to fund a new MS ECU ( sad face )
Only problem I've ever had with my MS1 was the tantalium (sp?) capacitors. The are used for cleaning the power supply input amongst other things. Check them for a dead short.
i looked into them and one did blow, ive replaced them and all works now,. Just having issues with tach signal, no rpm signal in MS. but if i remove the dizzy and spin by hand , fast, i get a signal and in turn injects and sparks. But on cranking, no rpm. im stumped at the mo
Ok so todays event was a successful one and cleared my doubts with the ecu ( anything else that could of popped). The car fires now and have an rpm signal. The ecu wasnt getting a 12v ignition on cranking. Infact on cranking it completely cut the feed. But with ignition on i had a feed. Some of rear pins on ce1 fuse box cut the ignition 12v on cranking. I swapped it to a better 12v ignition and made sure this pin stayed on when cranking. Engine fires and runs after 4 years of beening in a build state! Now to finish off the interior and dash knowing my engine starts
yep thats caught people out before, G spade 2 and 5 cut while cranking as fed by the x-relief relay which kills high amp circuits to make sure starter gets enough amps. G spade 1 and 3 are what you need for ignition feeds
