My White ‘90 GTI 2.0 8V 2E Digifant

Hello!
My name is Adelin, I am from Romania and since this autumn I am the proud owner of an MK2 GTI Digifant-PB from 1990 with 4 doors, 4 electric windows, electric adjustable mirrors, fog lights, tinted Hella tails, Rainbow seats and MFA.
The car is originally from Spain-Barcelona where it spent a big part of its life and was very well conserved showing no rust at the moment.
Since I have bought it, the car kept amazing me of how reliable and fun it is for a 32 years old vehicle.
Also during the past months some work was done to it, starting with engine mounts (the engine movement is not yet completely fixed), gearbox and engine oil, new suspension (eibachs and bilsteins),short shifter and some minor things I can’t remeber right now.
Before Christmas it did not want to run anymore and with your help on the topic that I have created I discovered that the lift pump was the issue. Replaced that and some pipes there and it runs well again.
I have bought a complete 2E engine off an MK3 GTI and I would like to match with my PB head or another one that has some work on it and eventually install a sporty camshaft in order to gain some horses I am open to see your thoughts or even if you have a packed (a,b,c) head please let me know.

I attach an album below to have a look and also I will let you the instagram:

@white.mk2gti

https://app.photobucket.com/u/dhs1398/a/f813599d-3671-4a31-8948-6f7a11088d52

 

Certainly is in amazing condition, you definitely got a good one (and the best colour too!)

 

Hello!
In a few weeks the freshly rebuilt 2E bottom will be on the car. Since this work will be done I am thinking to stiff a bit also the engine mounts. I have them all new since autumn but with digifant injection being so brutal when you put/release the throttle, engine still has a fairly bit of move/play.
Whad do you recommend in this manner? Solid front mount? To fill it with some raisin or something?
Thanks!

 

Welcome ,correctly sorted stock mounts will be fine,but you could go to a front hydraulic mount ,I have used quality OEM mounts and found them great ,used these on my 87 with Audi 3a 2L botton end and Techtonics cam and matching spec (cam) chip from them ,I did a rebuild on a RF digifant head ,skimmed for cleanup and a little bit more compression,inlet and exhaust ports cleaned up and matchported to inlet and exhaust manifolds...now that was a lot time but worth it I think.
This was a while back but seem to remember the cam was their 260 with provides a reasonable idle and power increase just before 3000rpm and has no need for dual springs , I sold this car due to a family crisis and regrets but I miss it besides,it made great power and was a blast to drive .
My current VW is 89 Corrado with ABF 2.0L 16v and I remember the Mk2 as not being much slower than that but the Corrado is a heavy car and my Mk2 was the lightest one built.
Keep up with progress ok .

 

In the meantime, found a brand new set of MOMO Star Alloys and couldn’t resist buying them The specs are as follows: 15x7 ET30, silver center and polished lips.
Right now looking to buy some summer tires. I guess 195/50 R15 is the right size for them.
Hope that they will poke out just fine to fill the arches a bit better than the current Mk3/Corrado VR6 BBS’s that are 15x6 ET43.

 

Welcome to the forum

 

Hello with big update
Last weekend I have started the engine swap. Took out the 1.8 8V PB and sterted rebuilding the 2.0 8V 2E block(piston rings,bearings,new gaskets and seals). Yesterday I have planned the PB head to sit perfectly on the 2E. I hope to finish the process this weekend. Hopefully everything will run after the first try
I will keep the updates here.

 

I’m back now stronger than ever!
The 2E block is completely swapped and it runs flawlessly. I have read a lot of topics describing how this 2.0 transforms the car and now I can truly confirm that is an upgrade well worth it.
Even though I am still in running in process because of the new piston rings and bearings I can feel that low end toruqe and also the sooound it makes now . Overall feels more nimble with less throttle.
Also the new clutch made it easier to drive, last one was Valeo-produced in 11/2000 ( disc was still in pretty good shape).
I am using the 2E cam cover because it was easier to route the block breather with tubes from mk3. I still have to do some management for the looks as now is just functional (not good looking, it has way too long pipes hanging around the throttle body).
Other than this, I have to purchase a top cambelt cover to fit on the cam cover (the lower one is from PB).
You have some pictures below with the most important moments of the swap. If you have any questions about this swap feel free to ask because I consider myself an expert now

 

Nice one, the 2.0 bottom end makes a nice road car.

 

I have some bad news, one big eng bearing managed to escape somehow today and did a mess inside my fresh rebuilt engine. It was on piston 2.
What are you recommending? To get the crankshaft refurbished(if it can be done) and install thicker bearings (if available?) or find a good condition used one?
Also can you suggest a part number for the rod bolts?
Are the conrods the same on 2.0 as on my 1.8?

Thanks!

 

Back in business new crankshaft and it is flying again .
Now I am facing an issue with the idle, when the breather is full connected it goes up around 1100rpm and has an odd rev hang. When I slightly get it out, semi-connected to the throttle body, it goes back to 950rpm and no rev hang.
Until now:
-Changed all vacuums
-cleaned isv and throttle body
-checked the throttle switches
I have to mention that since the swap was made this is the first time I managed to fully connect together the breathing system. Before it was something done just to run but for sure it had bad fittings so it would suck air from under the bonnet.
How shall I proceed? Connect everything and try to rotate inwards the idle screw? Play with the Air flow meeter?

thanks

 

I wouldn't touch the AFM just yet - in theory it should not need adjustment.
You said checked the throttle micro-switches - have you checked the wiring as well? If not it is worth having a look there.

 

Yes to trying the idle screw and make sure the "o" ring on the screw is good,it should have reasonable friction on it when turned in and out ,if not it is probably leaking ,had this issue before.
No to adjusting the AFM as mentioned but check the movement of the flap (air gate) to make sure it has free movement and snaps closed properly if not give it a clean out as you did with the throttle body.
If not sorted go back to search for air leaks ,trust me its worth it ,good luck.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.. I have blocked the tube coming from intake pipe and going to the ISV. Also blocked the intake of the ISV. So theoretically I have blocked the normal way for the air flow when idling. Car is still idling at 750rpm. Major air leak I would say.
@costel1969 I have tested the switches like so, give it a bit of throttle and apply the top one, revs drop, release and revs go up again. When no throttle applied, pushing the top one makes no difference, so I guess they work
@rubjonny I was texting the reply while you posted the method of checking. Also saw it on an older thread described by you thx

 

As a matter of interest - are these micro-switches now NLA from VW?

 

I take it's a matter of rooting out second-hand stuff so - rarer and rarer this kind of stuff is getting

 

Just past the inspection today. Nothing in the mentions list apart from the idle being still high, did not managed yet to find the leak.
Otherwise the inspector was really happy with the state of the vehicle and I was very proud when he said that it is a really good example (being first time when I inspected it here)

In the weekend we have a retro-meet close to me and I will attend it-hope to find other mk2 friends. I will keep you updated with the idle issue. Thank you!