Try: 1."VAG Parts for sale" on here 2. Post what you want in "VAG Parts wanted" on here 3. Ebay (search for "golf mk2 breaking" as well as locks/handles!)
Ok, these are the pics I managed to take. Apologies they aren't that clear! This one shows the main wire in the middle that is fully stripped, and has obviously got quite badly corroded. I couldn't see where it is supposed to go. You can also see the 2 yellow connectors behind it are similar You can see the white plug looks like it is partially melted as well I couldn't see much else as a problem, but then I don't really know what I am looking at.
ok: the one with yellow plugs on is probably for the dim/dip resistor. pop the bonnet and look at it, I bet one of the wires has rubbed thru on the chassis leg, classic problem! its next to driver siude headlight, looks like a pack o polos with a wire outa each end. If it is this, you need a new headlight switch, hl switch loom and engine bay lighting loom, you never know what that wire has also taken out in the loom The yellow/white wire is usually speedo sense, not sure why that has melted, probably collateral damage 1st thingto do, follow the melted wires to where they go on the fusebox, pop the plug attached and follow the loom to where it goes, and try to disconnect it from the other end(s) Lie loom out on your bench and piccy! Or if you can, look round the back of the fusebox and make a note of the plug, each one should have the plug ID listed next to it on the back of the fusebox. To release the plug you 1st have to click out a locking tab on the ned of the fusebox, then push the clip to release. Will probably be much easier if you take the dash out, and if you do that a heater matrix swap is made much easier
Thanks for that Jonny. Does that mean I don't need to worry about the white wire? I'm guessing that even though the lights seem to be working fine, that it's only a matter of time before they stop? There is also a yellow wire in the engine bay, with a fuse part the way down it, that doesn't connect to anything. It's on the passenger side near the battery. How difficult would it be to replace all those bit? Can you get to the other end of the loom without removing the dash? Finally, any clue as to what the broken and coroded wire is from/to? I couldn't see anywhere on the fusebox where it seemed to have come from.
I'm pretty sure the yellow plugs/wires are the dimdip resistor, and the yel/white is for the speedo sensor. You coudl probably remove the melted looms without taking the dash out, but its so easy to remove its not really worth the extra basll ache of working around it. that plus ideally you want to get the dash out so you can examine all the loom closely! The bay lighting loom requires you pull the brake servo forward a bit, as its usually all wedged in behind. 4 bolts and a clip is all that holds it to the pedal box, and if you';re careful there is no need to remove the brake master cylinder or crack any lines wiring on these cars is not as scary as you think, its all plug & play and pretty much all the plugs will only reach/fit where they are supposed to go. Plus theres all of us helpful types on the forums who can help you if you get stuck
Fair do's. How do I go about removing the dash? having only ever done a speedo change on a Golf before, the whole dash seems quite daunting. The dim dip resistor seems to be fully intact, but I need to clean up the lead going to it to make sure. Would it be a worthwhile exercise temporarily re-insulating the stripped and corroded wires to make sure that there is no risk of any other damage to anything else behind there?
well taking the dash clocks out is the hard part really, all the switches n screws n stuff, plus wheel n stalks. after that its 2 bolts either end of the dash, and 2 more bolts either side of the centre console, and 2 nuts in the scuttle area! Oh and I find its easiest to take out all 4 vents, then remove the surrounds (scews & clips) then you can leave all the ducting in place.
Cheers for that Jonny. I have to say it does worry me doing that, but I suppose it has to be done. The only thing that I would be really concerned about is how long the car would be in bits for before I could put it back together again! Getting hold of the loom/looms I need could prove tricky.
a fair few of the looms behind the dash arnt mk2 specific, mk3 ones would work. all depends which ones went up in smoke!
Right, next Sunday is dash out day. Thanks for all the help so far. Is the car OK to drive in it's current state do you think? I'm just itching to drive it again!!
Right, I have managed to get the dash out today. Most of the fuse box and loom look OK, but there are a couple of bits that definately need doing, and one part of it that I will do whilst I'm there. I've never seen anything so daunting in all my life! I'm really not looking forward to putting it back together! This is the first plug that is showing signs of corrosion, but nothing to major. This is where it came from in the fusebox. And this is where it leads to. This is the part that doesn't seem to bad. And it plugs in here. (3rd plug from the left, directly above the 2 blue fuses) Any idea what the missing plug 3rd from the left should be for? This is obviously the main problem. And it does lead to the headlight switch on the dash. The other end dissapears into the engine bay. And then one of the yellow plugs came off completely. So I guess my question is, what bits do I need to get my hands on? I have a contact at a massive scrap yard who can probably get them for me. I just need to know exactly what to ask for.
1st plug is totally trashed, 2nd one has been horribly bodged also, possibly part of an alarm? really nasty. you want all the wiring loom from the stalks and ignition switch, MK3 Golf ones will do, passat, corrado and 90spec mk2. Try to get ones that are uncut though! I'll have a look in my garage I might have some. you also want the headlight loom from a mk2 golf or jetta, doesnt have to bew a gti but 90spec obv.
That would be cool if you could check for me Jonny. The car does have an alarm, but I don't use it. If it is defunct, could I just get shot of it? I couldn't figure out where that lead went to, but I will try to trace it again. How easy is it to feed the headlight loom into the engine bay? Also do they always have 2 yellow plugs on?
loom probs well done that man RJ! truly a friend of all dubbers nice to see u talk guy through it can i add my wee bit plz! i just wonder ur thoughts re: moddin and repairin looms(particularly engine ones) say for example, as seen here melted/corroded issues or alternatively where mod is req due to resite of relevant components etc point is- given that many of the wires r of different gauge, what r ur thoughts regarding solderin in new wires for say to extend part of a loom for eg. my uncle is an auto electrician so i could ask him tomo just thought it may be useful to sum1 here also
to bin an alarm find the control box and work back thru the wiring till you find where it is spliced into the car wires, cho pout and re-join. or replace the loom with a section from another car for repairs on wiring looms it depends how confident you are and your skill level, for example on the headlight loom on this car you cant know what damage that burnt out yellow wire has done, so it needs to be replaced or completly opened up and all the wires checked. You could only replaced the damaged wires/sections, but I try to avoid this as any repairs are a point of weakness. Sometimes its just easier to just strip it out and replace, like huge sections that are sealed up like the lighting loom, or short easy to remove bits such as the loom for ign switch, stalks etc. If you want to mve bits about try to route them so that wires do not need chopping, hide any excess length if you can, if you need to solder then stacker the joints so if any of the shrinkwrap or tape fails it wont short out on another wire repair next to it. If at all possible try to match the wire gauge, or go a size up. If you need to repair really thick wires this can make a solder reapir difficult and messey, a good quality crimp would probably be more suitable. VW looms sometimes use a type of crimped connection, usually to join several smaller wires to a larger core cable. I preference is to avoid wire repairs if at all possible, I've removed & replaced most of the looms in my car that were damaged in this way, but for where its not possible I solder and heatshrink. In a tight spot I use crimp connections, say where soldering is difficult to achieve or not possible due to the size of wiring. Have to add that I'm not a trained electrician so take anything I say with a pinch of salt
Thanks for all your help so far Jonny. If your not sure what that loom is for, I am thinking it may well be for the heated seats, which dont' work. I'll see if I can check that tomorrow. If that's the case, I will whip it out and go without.
OK, I've managed to find out where the unknown loom goes to, and it is on the oposite side of the steering wheel to the other damaged wires. I have put some pictures up for the experts to see. What I did notice when tracking the wires back was that there seem to be alot of new looking red wires spliced into it. Could that be alarm/immobiliser? This is were it leads to. It then splits into 2 connectors the black one below: And the red one I couldn't seem to get out:
Hi, Matt The 7-pin black connector in the photos is for the indicators, parking lights and horn. The Black, with white stripe and green spots, is the indicator common wire, the only one with two traces. An alarm could've been spliced in to the indicators to give a visual On/Off signal, using Black-white and Black-green, and to the horn contact (Brown-blue) to use the car's horn(s) when sounding the alarm. The red connector, which has the locating tang at the opposite end from the black one, is an ignition feed for the hazard switch, an earth for the horn push and wires for front/rear washer, the operating 'shuttle' of which is visible above the connector housing in the first picture. The fusebox shown earlier on looks the same as the one used in the mk.3. If the three Red connectors on the left of picture, are 'H1', 'H2' and 'J' then they're for the steering column wiring, i.e. column switches and ignition/starter. The vacant fusebox socket 'B' is meant for the few cars (in the u.k. at any rate) equipped with headlamp washers.
Cheers for that Dougie. I've now managed to establish that I need a headlight loom, and a stalks and ignition switch wiring loom. What is the name of the other loom, I'm guessing it's a wiper loom of some kind? Once I have established exactly what I need, the search is on, so I can get it back on the road.
