OEM MK4 management wiring => Mk1/2/3 harness install FAQ (Now with added dieselness!)

Discussion in 'Engines' started by rubjonny, Nov 8, 2013.

  1. k-dogg New Member

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    Yeah it did come back. The only other part of code i have is p0685. I will be getting it plugged in again on wed for my o2 delete. Mine is a Ce1 fusebox and I've wired the original relay as per the guide with whatever relay came in the mk4 loom. 429/428? maybe. Maybe i did make a mistake on the wiring though, always a possibility!
     
  2. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Ideally get vagcom on there it should tell you the full code which might help, with the stock relay all you need to wire up is the permanent live feed somewhere, which used to go to T6/4 everythign else you leave as stock.

    if the car runs at all it must be working to some extent as it powers both the ecu and coils, so you wont get far if not...
     
  3. k-dogg New Member

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    That's what i thought! will let you know when i get more info
     
  4. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

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  5. k-dogg New Member

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    Haven't got any more info on the ecu relay code yet. had it up to get 2nd lambda etc deleted today and sussed out that i for some reason have no MAP sensor fitted!? Must have ignored the plug whenever i didn't use the original inter cooler and piping!

    Any ideas where the plug for it connects to? or just straight to ecu? so i can trace back to where i've chopped it! :clap:
     
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    may be best to post up a new thread for it, so more people can check it out. you wont get as much coverage in my wiring thread :)

    AUQ MAF wiring:
    1 - empty
    2 - blue/yellow - fuel pump relay power
    3 - green - ecu pin 27
    4 - red/purple - ecu pin 53
    5 - black - ecu pin 29
     
    erreesse likes this.
  7. glidn New Member

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    Thanks for everyones input in getting these guides and information.

    I helped a friend do a IMMO2 AGU wired into an CE2 MK3 vr6.
    Firstly I found a few wire pin outs different on the RElay board side vs the typical 4cyl.

    I did end up wiring ECU (all 3 power Feeds), and fuel pump to a generic 5pin 30 Amp relay.
    Only as I could never get the feed in the CE2 fuseboard to start the fuel pump.
    Again, friend decided to go cutting all the wires out prior to being able to trace all the wires.
    So I ended up using the CE2Resources page and studying that wiring pin outs.

    I also had/have 2 problems.
    The Alternator Excitor wire to dash kept complaing that it's not connected. Since it's been connected, if the cars ignition is on the cluster works.
    As soon as the car is started and running, the cluster goes Dead.

    Removed the Excitor wire again, still the same happens, did remove the actual Alternator wire to the battery feed.
    Then the cluster worked briefly.

    So I suspect (friend changed a few wires while I was not their), something seems to be back feeding.
    Also suspect he never wired in the Resistor on the Temp gauge or rewired MK3 Temp sensor as requested.

    So really, I'm only requiring a little assistance regarding the Cluster turning off when running.
    Any assistance or pointers to figure out whats going on would be greatly appreciated.
    It's potentially bugging me more then the owner of the car.
     
  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    with the vr6 these either have no ecu relay at all, or use a 109 ecu relay in slot 3 which needs an earth on G1/7 to switch it on and since you wont have that feed from an AGU ecu its no use. to make G1/10 work for an AGU what you need is a 30 or 32 relay in slot 3. but a separate fused relay is fine, and many loom builders do it this way anyway and so do I on aum/auq looms as the G1/10 pin isnt quite man enough for those plus the DBW coilpack wiring is pants and often splits then shorts out so a fused feed is always a good idea for those. The AGU looms dont seem to suffer from this issue, but again adding fuses is never a bad plan. So in short, no worries :lol:

    with the dash problems, check plug E. you need an ignition live to pin 2, which is fed from the jumper blocks above the fusebox. originally it would have a black plug on it to match the black jumper housing. Also make sure G1/5 is earthed, originally this would run to a ring terminal on the engien block, but above the fusebox to the claw will be fine
     
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  9. glidn New Member

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    Thanks RubJonny,

    Good news, it turns out G1/05 was not attached. So cluster now works.

    As he did nothing with the coolant sensor or oil pressure sensor. The car is now screaming at him. Already advised what needs to be done.
    The Speedo does not work, So I suspect VSS may not be connected to G1/11.

    He will check and let me know, there after I will provide more information to be able to assist everyone else also.
     
  10. Romka Forum Member

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    Hey rubjonny! I've got a question, doing a 1.8t swap now and would like to make a check engine light in case something is wrong, which cables should I use?

    If im correct it should be the cable from the ECU pin 47 to T10 white purple/yellow cable to the dashboard that I connect to a light and just earth it to something. Is it the right cable?
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    T10w - white 10 pin connector:
    8 - wht/red - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 48 (unused) - EPC fault lamp
    10- pur/yel - AUM/AUQ ECU pin 47 (unused) - Emissions fault lamp

    I'm not sure if they are an earth or voltage trigger, I would say they are probably earth triggers though so you would put voltage to the bulb from ignition and run the earth pin to the ecu. They aren't used for many euro ecu so they may not work, but see how you go :)
     
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  12. Romka Forum Member

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    Thanks for the reply!

    Going to test that, not far away from startup [:D] I've the ARZ engine but I would guess it's the same electronics with AUM/AUQ (ME7.5).

    What I'm doing is that I'm using the mk4 fusebox and the relay department for the fuel pump beside the fusebox and the relay's in the plenum chamber in the engine bay. I'm not sure if it is the right way or wrong but i feel like it would be less hassle if I did it this way!

    What is your opinion on that?

    Here's how it looks like :)
    EJst5jt.jpg
     
  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    its not the way I would do it, but if you're happy then you carry on dont let anyone tell you otherwise ;)
     
  14. Romka Forum Member

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    As long it works then I'm happy :)

    Btw, I check the T10w 10- pur/yel contact and funny thing is that a pur/yel is coming from the ECU but no cable comes out from the contact? how do you interpret that? :o
     
  15. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yeah thats how most euro looms are, all it is the ecu loom is relatively standard across the VAG range so the ECU that do actually use these 2 warning lamps can do so, and on the others that dont these wires are ignored. you see soem audi and seat using these 2 feeds, but VW mostly dont instead its done over diagnostics or can-bus I assume.
     
  16. Romka Forum Member

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    I guess i would have to you the can bus cables for the light. Strange enough is that the schematic doesn't say anything about can cables going to the speedo :/
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    you mean the mk4 wiring diagrams? they do indeed show the ecu can bus wires going to the speedo :)
     
  18. Romka Forum Member

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    Dammit, you're correct! I was using the audi a3 wiring diagram because I though it would be the same. Basically it is the same but there are few differences such as this!

    Anyways, can high and low cables go to the cluster. I guess you can't just connect the to a bulb because the way I see it there's something called "Diagnosis interface". Do you know anything about it?
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    which a3 diagram are you using? the one I have here shows the 2 warning light wires running directly to bulbs inside the clocks, plus it also has the can-bus wires running straight to the clocks :)

    i have another which only has the warning light wires to the clock bulbs, and can-bus goes to the abs or auto control units
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2015
  20. Romka Forum Member

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    I was using the one for ARZ from 2000. But it doesn't matter since I the loom is from a golf mk4 :) The can bus wires go to the obi port, cluster and abs!
     

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