So I guess it's the sitting around that kills them - sludge forming in the sump and in the breathers.
cheers trev. the sportline was very noisy from the cylinder head so needed investigating before any more serious damage occured... so id do as gary says,whip the sump off,inspect big end shells,and replace oil pump as a matter of course. it may be obvious what the problem is when you see the pickup? neil.
The head will be dead aswell, you fitted it didnt you? I'd expect nothing less from an electronic engineer TBH
I'll unlock your account next week And there's no point crying at me over MSN either, Andy Edited by: Trev16v
Right, today I whipped off the sump and removed the oil pump. That's as far as I've got at the moment. The pump pickup mesh looks relatively free of crap. There's a bit of black crud on it, but nothing that makes me go 'wooooah!'. I have a new GSF oil pump to fit. Now, what I find odd is that the pump came supplied with a small plastic baffle. The original plastic baffle thing on the old pump is a much larger piece of plastic. What's the deal here? Secondly, what bearing caps would I be best advised to remove so that I can look at the bearings? Should I remove just one of the conrod big-end bearing caps? Sufficient to inspect just one big-end bearing shell, do you think? Thanks, Trev
Also, the Haynes is telling me that I must renew the con-rod bolts. Can anyone confirm whether this is really necessary - because I don't have any new ones to hand.
id inspect em all while your at it trev take one cap off at a time and make sure it goes back on the same way,not sure about the bolts,i used the original ones in the kr mk1 with some loctite. edit:never had a prob neil. Edited by: riley
Right, I've had a bit of a sh*t afternoon. Felt really ill for some reason and had to stop and couldn't finish it tonight I'm not going to check those bearings. I can't be arsed and I don't want to f*ck anything up. I'll just see what Vince says when it goes to Stealth soon. What held me up today was that gear right at the top that the pump shaft goes through. The little sod moves around and I could not get it to stay aligned while I pushed the pump shaft back in! Got it done in the end though. Got the sump back on and I'm tying to get those two little bastard bolts back in by the bell housing... The one other thing that I can't quite understand is why my GSF pump came with a really small baffle thing, which is much smaller than the standard one. I had to use the new one supplied with the pump, because if I put the original baffle on the new pump, the dipstick could not be pushed fully in! This is because the pickup tube is slightly shorter on the pump I've got. Odd. If you imagine the standard KR plastic thing has a large horizontal area, and a vertical area. The one that was supplied with the new pump was just the vertical area. That's the best way I can describe it. Edited by: Trev16v
mmmm,i dont like thwe sound of that. i think you could have probably swapped the pickups over (cleaning first obviously)and then used the original baffle? see what pressure your gettin with the new pump and go from there,hopefully it will be ok neil.
Hmm, I really wanted to use the new pump complete, to ensure that the pickup is in good order. The issue with the baffle is annoying and I really hope that the strange one supplied with the pump won't cause any problems. I was pissed off and wanted to get it back together. Another option is to have taken a bit of plastic out of the baffle so that it didn't obstruct the dipstick... but FFS
yeah,cant understand why it would be diffarent old pickup would have been fine if rinsed in petrol then oil or sommet bit late now though,dont suppose you fancy tackling those sump bolts again good luck with it anyway trev! neil.
Riley - cheers for the help mate, and your FAQ was really helpful too. Well, ETKA (and TheSecondComing!) confirmed that the small baffle was the type that's fitted to 8V engines. The larger one is only fitted to KR and PL I think. So I'm not too worried (it's not a track car!). Took it for a spin and with the oil fully warmed up, I now have 30psi at 2000 rpm, which is looking a lot healthier. It almost bends the needle when the oil is cold, too... The funny noise still continues. It's coming from the top end, and not the block. And I no longer think it's load related. In fact at the moment with the dizzy in its current position, I just get it happening when I dip the clutch to change up after I've booted it in second and third, etc. I did want to make a little recording of it, but the missus won't let me put her 100 quid MP3 recorder in the engine bay while I drive the car. Can't think why
Trev, where have you got your gauge sender located? I have mine in a brass T piece to keep the high pressure factory switch. When the oil gets very hot it foams in the brass adapter tube and reads a bogus low pressure. Also I'd only ever use a VDO or similar gauge as a guide, there's a reason workshop oil pressure gauges are 100+.
no probs trev i dont know what noise you have,is it coming from the head? its not the cam chain or something is it? neil.
I had a funny noise on my valver when I got it running, was like a metallic tap very fast but did'nt sound like pinking, sounded more like their was gravel being fired about, raspy almost Seemed to happen more when giving it some, but would hear it other times too. I can only put it down to the old 95 ron fuel that had probably been sat in their around 6-7 months during the conversion. Since topping up the old fuel with optimax and having run all that through now and using more optimax, I have'nt heard the noise since.
