Just a quick update. I removed the actuators and solenoids. The solenoids had dark old oil spew out of them and then after a thorough clean they click a bit more nicely from a battery. They didn’t seem too bad however. As for the actuators they were barely moveable by hand. I gave them a thorough clean and now both of them move very freely by hand so I’m assuming this might have been the issue? Going to leave them to soak in degreaser overnight. The small gauze/mesh in the timing assembly has holes in it and is basically useless. Shall I just remove it altogether?
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_246.pdf Good read if you're interested. And yeah that will be your issue most likely. For example you inlet cam could be stuck advanced during idle, which would give poor running. VCDS would show that as a "Camshaft phase error" (not exactly but words to that effect). That would also be why your timing had drifted out. Because rather than the engine coming to rest with the inner VVT rotor up against the stops in the outer rotor, it might have got stuck halfway, meaning that the cams would obviously be in a different position to what they were when you timed the engine. Yeah take the mesh out, and make sure the pistons in that block are very clean, the cleaner better. And obviously that there's no damage or bits of mesh that have got sucked through
Hi ive got one final query before putting everything back together! The cam adjusters are on with new bolts and torqued up. I timed everything with the intake cam confidently turned completely left, and then did the exhaust cam the same way. There are 16 pins between the two and the marks line up perfectly. I rotated the crank shaft twice back to TDC and the cam locking tool slotted in perfectly. Now here's the bit im not sure on... I thought it best to rotate the crank a few more times to make sure the timing stays perfect and it sort of doesn't. After 6 turns and back to TDC the intake cam is perfect but the tool won't slot in, the exhaust cam is fractionally out. Is this normal? Should I have left it alone after just cranking it twice and it being correct?
Can you move the exhaust cam at all? If you can then it’s probably just a stiff spot on the variator. If The variators are both bottomed out then it should still be in time
I thought I was 100% on them being bottomed out. I’ll have to have another crack at this because somethings wrong
Yeah let us know, if everything is bottomed out it should be spot on, if its drifted slightly it might have just slightly out of time due to tension changes/slack in the wrong place
Just had a quick thought. I’ve been certain I’ve had both cam adjusters bottomed out as they should be and after two revolutions of the crank pulley they have ligned up. It’s only after multiple revolutions that the exhaust cam runs out. however, it goes out of time (fractionally) in the advanced position rather than trailing behind the intake camshaft, if that makes sense. If I wasn’t getting the exhaust cam bottomed out wouldn’t it be behind rather than advanced? just wondering if it’s actually being set up correctly and I should just go for it and reassemble lol
Okay final update! The car is back together and it worked! Not entirely sure about my last post but the timing is correct and after following your advice with the cam adjusters and solenoids it’s made all the difference. Thanks for all of the help I have really appreciated it. Legend
No worries! Glad its sorted dude. Could have just been a fluke, or something like a stiff link in the chain that held tension in the wrong place, then let go and put you slightly out. Sounds like its in better hands with you than its previous owner. I'm sure you've read everywhere but longlife oil is not really suitable for these engines. Even if the oil is a bit cheaper, its far better doing them every 10k or even better 5k miles, rather than relying on the variable service interval
Attempting to revive this old thread… my timing issues have come back and the car is running rough again! I’m sure it’s something to do with the VVT. Is there a way to test the cam solenoids on this engine? I’ve seen it’s possible with vcds on an r32
It is exactly what it says in the fault. When a V5 20v sensor dies, the engine will be hard to start and on batch fire. When two sensors die or unplugged the engine will not start. Replace the sensor and that is it. Sensor A sounds like the intake sensor. The same applies on a twin vane 24v VR6.
Thanks for the help but not sure what you mean? I have already replaced both cam sensors and the crank sensor. Timing on vcds is showing as good now but still having the timing code, and also a code roughly relating to the cam solenoid. You think it could still be the sensor?
