sure sounds like it yep, only way to see for sure is get under and take a look. could be something simple, or it could be something expensive
I'm under it today. Soon. Hopefully not too expensive Am thinking it would make sense to replace all rubber hoses to be E10 compatible at the same time. I have seen a number of posts where with the webers particularly the return line is removed as is the swirl pot also removed. The fuel line thus just goes straight from pump to carb. I feel a little unsure about this as will the backpressure damage the pump? Mine is mechanical pump attached to the block and I'm guessing it wouldn't cause a problem - my old landrover S3 has a mechanical pump with no return and it seems fine. So is the return line really needed?
yeah for sure hoses are a good start, hopefully its something like that rather than say pipe fractured off the side of the tank. since the lines are metal they can corrode also, but as its a carby not so hard to replace as you dont need all nice banjo ends etc as you would in a kjet people bin the swirl pot and block the returns all the time yeah, and never seems to be an issue with them so thats another route
Thanks rubjohnny. That's great to hear on swirl pot. So I'll do that as well anyway - one less line to go wrong! Thank you so much
I mean I wouldn't do it unless you had an issue, I'd prefer to keep it all standard. what often happens is the restrictor on the pot return line and the car cuts out, so the pot and return line is deleted. Alternatively you can use a welding tip up the return and keep all the factory parts
I've seen quite a few references to the welding tip, but no idea what that means exactly. I'm not a welder so don't have any lying around to check out. They seem to be different sizes like 0.6, 1.0 etc. Does that matter? I guess the tip goes in the line? Are they all the same external diameter? Where to put them? Does it not move along the line and end up in the fuel tank, assuming it goes in the fuel line or does it need a jubilee clip to hold it in place? I'm open to it, but just don't really know what to do with the tip. My current intent is to leave all the stock parts in situ, fix the leaky line now identified as return line Flexi between tank and metal pipework just to avoid future forgetfulness and stub off the return line just by swirl pot. Bypass swirl pot with direct line from mechanical pump to carb and leave swirl pot there. Not the prettiest looking solution, but simple and keeps options open. That way it leaves it as a simple job if I ever decided to go back to stock
yeah .8 iirc is what most go with, you poke it up the line and there it stays. its very similar to what the swirl pot wouldv'e had originally. but yeah, only bother if you find you currently suffer from fuel starvation with everything fixed up with the swirl pot left in place
