pierburg problem

Discussion in 'Carburettor' started by joey-gti, Jun 30, 2007.

  1. joey-gti Forum Member

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    i have a 1990 clipper that i was running with twin 40 webers, ive had to go back to standard but after sticking the cab back on it idles at 2500, it had the water way welded up on the cylinder head when converted so the carb is dry, i dont mind poor running when cold but i cant get the idle down, any ideas?
     
  2. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    Jan 15, 2007
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    Location:
    Under Bonnet, nr Abingdon
    A manual choke of some sort would be good, as the electrical heater will take ages to bring it off choke. You might want to link out the thermoswitch that cuts this off too.

    The main trouble you'll have is with a permanently cold waxstat, the revs will be held up at idle. You could either replace the waxstat with a rod extending about " into the hole it would have 'thrust' into, or somehow pin the whole warm-up cam into it's fully warmed up position. If you push a screwdriver up the hole the waxstat goes up, you'll see how this works.

    Well worth checking that your TTV is doing the correct stuff, refer to rubjonny's FAQ for method.

    gbk
    may be your man for the best info on this one, I think he's got some absent autochoke bits.

    P.S. I've got a manual choke kit of some sort that could probably be made to work, although it says on the packet that it's not suitable for the 2E2, I think that may be for reasons that won't matter to you. Yours for the postage and the price of a pint.
     
  3. GBK

    gbk Paid Member Paid Member

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    Dec 6, 2006
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    Location:
    Chippenham, Wiltshire
    That's right, I don't have an autochoke, a waxstat or a TTV!

    What I do have though is half of a manual choke which was attached when I got the carb. I assume that this must pull the cam to the warm point though otherwise as Pete says the absense of the waxstat wouldn't push the cam thus lowering the idle. The wires kept falling off the TTV and I think I shorted something internally when I tried to put them back on with the car running. I re-routed the vacuum pipes to disable it without any cold starting problems. I found that when it stopped working, idle would be very high until about 20 minutes in slow traffic and then it would drop suddenly to normal idle. On a fast run it would then go back up to 3000 revs (presumably as it had cooled).
     

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