Pull cable positions + routing + fire extinguisher plumbing

Discussion in 'Track Prep & Tech' started by mk1 driver, May 26, 2010.

  1. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2003
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Nottingham
    Can anyone supply pictures of where they've placed and routed there pull cables for the battery cut-off switch and fire extinguisher, please?

    Cheers,
    James.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2010
  2. A.N. Other Banned after significant club disruption Dec 5th 2

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2003
    Likes Received:
    448
    Just below the bottom of the screen - anywhere is fine.

    Try and put them so that the bonnet won't catch them.

    Route the cables through any existing grommet into the car itself - you just need to choose a position which points it towards the connection points in the car.

    Which side of the car? Not sure - check a few pictures & you'll be able to see them.

    There's nothing super critical about any of this.
     
  3. jamesa Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2003
    Likes Received:
    301
    Location:
    Abz
    Where are you mounting the extinguisher bottle ? - mine (Mk1) is behind the passenger seat:

    - Pull 1 is nearside below windscreen (above fusebox !) - easy cable run down along the sill
    - Pull 2 is LHS of steering wheel .. where the original manual choke cover was

    Can supply pictures when at home at weekend

    (No battery cut-off installed ... yet)
     
  4. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2003
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Nottingham
    Extinguisher bottle will go in the front passenger footwell next to the tunnel (pointing longitudinally, front/rear of car), only due to wanting to be able to fit a passenger seat, otherwise it would have gone in the rear footwell.

    Do you have a mechanically operated extinguisher? Any install pics at all?
     
  5. jamesa Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2003
    Likes Received:
    301
    Location:
    Abz
    Your bottle position will make running the pull cables awkward .. why not locate where mine is ?

    Forgot I had these in my Photobucket account:

    External pull in front of tax disc / Internal pull
    [​IMG]

    External pull is from extreme LEFT
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Nozzle 1
    [​IMG]

    Nozzle 2
    [​IMG]
     
  6. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2003
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Nottingham
    Thanks for the pictures!

    I do have the extinguisher now and have been placing it around the floor at home to see how things will work. As with the location I mentioned - alongside the tunnel, I'd have the neck/gauge part of the bottle pointing to the rear of the car, thus having the cables pulling directly to the front of the car. Also you can see the gauge and service sticker easily from the passenger door as well.

    I'll have a look how it fits in the rear passenger footwell when I'm next up at the car, as that is more of a prefered option for getting the weight backwards and over to the lighter left side. It may also depend on what ridges are on the floor both in the front and rear as to the best/flatest place to mount, whilst still enabling the option to mount a seat in.

    I'm not sure how many 8v's are running with ballast plates (thread should have gone in the Golf GTI Championship forum...) but I think the opted place to bolt these down is the rear passenger footwell.

    How much bend can you put on the extinguisher tubing to get them to the nozzles? I'm not sure if it's just the picture but your tubing looks a tiny bit smaller(?) I measured mine to be 10mm diameter, the rest of the nozzle mounted on the tunnel is just out of shot to see.

    Can you cut down the cables to aid having too much excess? The outer housing looks to have a simple dome/tapered end... a clean cut and out with the file?
     
  7. jamesa Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2003
    Likes Received:
    301
    Location:
    Abz
    Tubing is ~ 10mm - tunnel nozzle is visible in first shot also, is tee`d off the main line - max tubing bend radius is ~ that at the engine bay nozzle - cables should be easily trimmed.
     
  8. coupechamp Forum Member

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2008
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Northampton
    i put these up yesterday!! not sure where they went, but might help. The pull cable inside sits just behind the gear lever, and was made from a bikes stabilizer.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2003
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Nottingham
    Bit of a rough and ready quick diagram... [:$]

    [​IMG]

    Obviously there wont be any tight radius bends in the pipework, diagram merely to show how everything will be joined up and roughly routed.

    The t-pieces orientated in the way that the lifeline diagrams suggests, how the t-piece joint halves the flow at each junction to either the engine bay/interior or to one nozzle or the other in that area.

    Is this setup fine?
     
  10. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2003
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Nottingham
    Where abouts have folk come through the bulkhead for the pull cables?

    Mounting the exterior end of the cable is straightforward but where is best to come through the bulkhead. Coming through the back vertical side of the rain tray area ends up in the blower cowling parts which go to the matrix on the interior side of the bulkhead... and also seems to be a hard place to get your hand up to with everything in situe. Also came across a few threads mentioning that the glovebox can only be removed with the dash out (which isn't an option) which I hoped would have given an insight into what could be done behind it.
     
  11. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2003
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Nottingham
    Has any got a spare lock nut for a pull cable and/or know the spec? Seem to be an odd M9 size?
     
  12. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2003
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Nottingham
    For those with plumbed in systems...

    All the nozzles and T-pieces are push fit connections, once you push the pipe in you can't pull them loose.

    Regarding the push fit connection on the fire extinguisher itself, when the bottle needs to be extracted from the car for servicing, how do you remove the pipe?
     
  13. StuMc

    StuMc Moderator and Regional Host - Manchester Moderator

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2004
    Likes Received:
    268
    Location:
    50? 20` 47 N - 06? 57` 57 E
    I know the ones you are using probably won`t be exactly the same as this, but the principal of operation is the same;

    [​IMG]

    The blue piece here is spring-loaded. As you push the pipe into the fitting the blue piece is compressed, and a series of barbs inside are retracted. When you let go of the inserted pipe, the blue piece returns and the barbs grip the pipe.

    To remove the pipe, simply push down on the blue piece, and pull the pipe free. It can be fiddly/tight, especially on small bore stuff, but if yours is 10mm it shouldn`t be too bad. :thumbup:
     
  14. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2003
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Nottingham
    Thanks for that, what would be the name of the connectors? And where could I get an inline 10mm version?

    I've just tried pulling the pipes from the back of one of my nozzles, as the connection looks similar to the one you've posted but it seems reluctant to want to come undone!

    Fire Extinguisher is a Lifeline product if anyone has had to remove theirs for servicing purposes. I've not got the bottle to hand but also don't want to get the wrong pipe lodged in if I try.
     
  15. StuMc

    StuMc Moderator and Regional Host - Manchester Moderator

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2004
    Likes Received:
    268
    Location:
    50? 20` 47 N - 06? 57` 57 E
    Push-fit connectors.

    Commonly used in pnuematic control systems so any pneumatic/compressor suppliers should carry them.

    A lot of household plumbing/central heating now utilises these type of fittings, so my even have some luck down at your local B&Q.

    Or ask Lifeline themselves...
     
  16. mk1 driver Forum Junkie

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2003
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Nottingham
    Lifeline have been in touched and they should be able to be pulled apart, as you said. I guess it's just knowing the nack to it. :thumbup:
     
  17. StuMc

    StuMc Moderator and Regional Host - Manchester Moderator

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2004
    Likes Received:
    268
    Location:
    50? 20` 47 N - 06? 57` 57 E
    Yeah, there can be a bit of knack to it, and new fittings can be especially tight, but they will come un-done! :thumbup:
     
  18. mat-mk3

    mat-mk3 Administrator Admin

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2003
    Likes Received:
    566
    Location:
    Bristol
    Bloody things those connectors, Was always replacing them on my parents caravan.
    Water was left in the system (It was drained) and every winter it would feeze and crack the connector.

    Anyway, Sometimes you need to push the pipe in a little bit more to release the spring and then pull it out.
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice