Hi All, In the process of building up a ABF clone to replace the ABA in my mk2 rally car. I'd like to play with ITB's on this one, and struggling to find which way to go for a radiator. The current radiator is an aluminum version of a stock one and works fine with the ABA. Not sure if I'll need more for the ABF with the (hopefully) added 25-50hp. For proper fitting of the ITB's, you obviously need room. The choices that I've seen are a custom shortened one, A Civic one to the side, or possibly remounting a stock one lower. I have yet to find an in-depth discussion addressing these choices. Custom built = $$ Lowered = more likely damage in a rally car Civic = seems small Current running stock sandwich cooler, and could go with an external cooler to take some of the load off the radiator. The issue with that is warm up temps not linked, and the cost of an added oil cooler mostly negates the savings of a stock radiator. How much cooling is enough? Tradeoffs of sandwich vs. separate oil cooler? Repurposed radiators from other models? In looking around for something, I have noticed that a radiator for a '84-01 Jeep Comanche/Cherokee XJ is shorter and might be able to be fit between the frame horns. Also, a '64-'69 Ford GT40 is a convenient size. I have considered getting something close, and modifying it, but if this already has an off the shelf solution, all the better. I'm sure many have sorted this, as I see them in many posts, but if anyone could go through their decisions, or point me to posts that do, I would appreciate it. bo
Good questions you have there. It is possible to use a radiator of a Corsa B or 205 GTI, they are a bit lower. But it alle depends on the fact if you are going to mount an airbox yes or no, because that is the part that will consume a lot of space. I would suggest to place either of them lower, so in front of the radiator bar on the cross beam. I am currently building the Civic radiator setup, copied from Tony, because I was fed up with the radiator not being fitted right, hitting the airbox and not cooling enough. The Civic radiator might seem small, but is a three row thick version. You can get it on Ebay. Tony says he sometimes can't warm the engine up and needs to block it with some cardboard... so I am very curious how it will work out on mine. In this setup, you are dimensionally more free, but you need to make custom supports on the front cross beam (see my topic).
Dave, thanks for the reply. I have been following your thread, and I'm a bit envious. Nice build. I saw that you went from a standard to a Civic rad, but I didn't see much detail or discussion on the how's and why's. Good to hear that the Civic rad is up to the task. I might have to run it past my sanctioning body, there is language in the rules that the rad must be in the original location. That might mean original mounting points, might mean front vs. rear, might mean has to look stock to a grumpy tech inspector. For the type of racing I do, I don't need ultimate hp. I could probably get along just fine with a plenum, but whats the fun in that? Rally, so a filter (airbox) is a must. I'm also in the States, so finding a Corsa or 205 is a bit more challenging.
In that case I would - remove the radiator bar from the croos beam. Remember you need the ends to mount it to the chassis, I've cut them off - make supports on the cross beam that remains. - Place the original rad a bit lower, and a bit more to the front - Modify the T- part in the front to allow radiator space. That should do it. The rad will be in front of the airbox anyway but that won't harm so much. You can apply heat reflective tape to the airbox.
There have been discussions and details shared regarding fitting ITBs to a 16v engine and in a MK2 also. Of course on here on this forum the object is not as trivial as peak power increase but more appropriately, maximising cylinder fill and engine response with correctly sized ITBs. https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-itb-your-ea827-16v-engine-new-itb-content-post-2.289525/#post-2518304 In hindsight and due to the benefits of time, more could be done to further improve burn and cylinder pressure with that set up, but yes, it was a discussion and a successful experiment, which I recently updated last year, giving a permanent home to one of the prototype parts. For the radiator, you can use the 16v ally type, but with a modified radiator crossmember to lower the rad and provide a gap in the slam panel. That is what I run. You can also use a modified Honda Civic type to the left also.
Toyotec, that thread may have been the one that led me down this rabbit hole. Thank you for the effort.
